Hey, is it 7.25 or 7.5 to get the three marks I need to set the valve lash???

Then all I have to do is figure out how to actually mark that! LOL

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

SO...

I get it together and grab the key and everything spins like it's supposed to only it's not firing and it sounds weird???

Tried it a couple of times - gas works oil pressure coming up etc.

THEN I NOTICED THERE IS NO SPARK PLUGS OR DISTRIBUTOR CAP OR WIRES!!!

BWAHAHAHAHAHA

So I get all that done and ready...
Go around and turn the key...
FREEKIN DEAD BATTERY!!!

LOLOL

Gotta wait for the neighbor to get home so I can borrow his charger now!!!

Uh which way did he go George???

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Well, first thing I cranked it a few times and nothing.
Figured that I would check the compression numbers and I find that #6 is getting up to 75! 5 went to 110 - so far the other two I checked are over 100 also...WTheck NOW???

I figure I will check them all and see what they are all showing...

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

6 - 75
5 - 115
4 - 105
3 - 74
2 - 115
1 - 120

holy crap batman - they are all over the place!

what now???

suggestions?
opinions?

anybody wanna buy a used van???

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Those could easily be due to tight valve lash on 3 and 6, or even on all of them (variably). Make sure valve lash is adjusted properly (or on loose side) and engine is warmed up to get reliable numbers. I can't count how many engines I've "saved" (or greatly increased output and idle quality) by just adjusting lash.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

ok - I will try backing them off a little...
I need to get it running so I can actually get it to warm up...

lol

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Backed those two off and got 100 on 6 - and 95 on 3 - so that is a start...

Then I hooked all the wires up and gave it some gas and it runs - it does not stay running... if I stop putting the gas to it - it dies...

NEXT???

and at the same time I am doing this, I am helping my sister get ready to have a yard sale this weekend - and we had the power go out because of the wind down here for over an hour!!!

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

What am I missing guys?
Why is it not staying running now?

Leak under the carb?
The adjustment for the idle is all the way to it's longest extent and the plates are closed and can not be adjusted open at all... Looks like they are completely closed?

I do not remember what this is supposed to look like now...

I have not adjusted anything on the carb, just took it off and put it back on...
Do not want to adjust anything until I am sure it is the carb and not some version of timing or??? I just can't get it to stay running or idle at all...

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Vacuum leak, fuel float level problem, idle circuit has some crud in it, too low idle speed setting, perhaps timing retarded too much.

One can change idle rpm by changing base timing setting.

Will engine stay running with throttle partly open? If so check for vacuum leak. When carb is running on transition circuit and or main jet a small vacuum leak that will cause poor or no idle is over come or masked by the larger volume of fuel supplied by main jets.

No idle condition can caused be crud in idle circuit, be it dirt or emulsified old fuel deposits, and or incorrect idle mixture setting.


I haven't been following this thread, and don't know brand of carb you have, so consult FSM for base setting of idle mixture for a starting point.

Getting an engine to idle and run right usually requires one to adjust timing, idle mixture and idle speed setting a few time before it is dialed in. It's a little dance where one adjustment upsets another, and after a few tries it all comes into tune.

Take your time. Make notes of where or what settings were when starting this tuning project, then only make one change at a time, note what if anything improved or worsened. If it worsened back up and proceed to the next thing going down the list I made above.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I never mentioned the carb as I did not expect to have any problems with it.
I had a head gasket go out and just got it all back together.
Just took the carb off and then re-installed it a little while ago.

When I finally got it to start, it does not want to idle now and if I open the throttle by hand - it will die if I try to hold it steady at one point - have to keep giving more to get it to run for a few and then add more again.

It is a holley 500 - and it is a POS one - lol
Found out after I got it that it is a racing one - that prefers to be wide open.
Does not even have a choke on it - or even a place for choke plates!

Royal pain in the butt - except that as long as it is running - and it's been running for about 13 years now, it runs great...

lol

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

I agree, try the base timing, if it's too far retarded it won't stay running, just turn the distributor clockwise a smidge and try it again. A "smidge" is a few mm of rotation.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

if that doesn't work, try a couple more smidges, trying start up after each. If you believe it's not doing anything, then leave it and we can try something else. If you put the timing mark at TDC on #1 compression stroke, the rotor button should be aligned with the #1 tower on the distributor cap. You might check that just to make sure where the timing is approximately. Advanced timing is where the button is pointing to a spot before (button rotates clockwise) the #1 tower, if it's pointing after the #1 tower the timing is retarded. Does that make sense?



brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I did just that and had it close - then I moved the distributor up and out to move the rotor a notch ahead - and screwed it up - because I forgot which way I was moving it!

Now I have to get it back to TDC and try moving it again.

Between this cam and the carb, I have had nothing but problems - until I get it running.

I sure as F*(& wish I really knew what I was doing - every time I try to think of retarding or advancing - I get this weird memory block that for some reason refuses to register what it means!!!

So, it is windy as hell here - have to have the garage door open to do this and I am running out of daylight and just plain old time because all the neighbors are getting home and it is time to start closing things and hiding.

Sis is having a yard sale tomorrow - so I will be part of that - because I have no choice! I am taking up half of her garage!!!

I will have to tap the starter until the timing light hits and then figure out what to do from there again...

I really wish I could afford to pay someone to come over here and do this for me...

I have no gray matter left worth using...

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Dan, to advance or retard, you don't remove the distributor you only turn it and then clamp it back down. Having it at tower #1 at TDC is the primary setting, then you simply loosen the clamp and rotate it one way or the other to advance or retard the timing.

I'm sorry if I said it wrong last time, but counter clockwise rotation of the distributor advances the timing, i.e. when the the engine is running and the rotor turns clockwise, if you turned the distributor counter clockwise that means the rotor will get to tower #1 earlier than it would if you hadn't turned it counter clockwise. You are moving the plug wire towers relative to TDC (where you set the rotor initially).

Brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Here's an analogous pic from a V8, same rotation:

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... j.jpg.html

Imagine starting where the rotor button is pointing at #1 tower, that is TDC. If you turn the distributor counterclockwise, then on the rotor button's next rotation, it will get the to #1 tower sooner, i.e. the timing is advanced by how many degrees you turned the distributor.

Brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2