Hi BUCKET 656, summertime in our part of the world makes the time it takes to respond to a post a bit erratic!
In your wiring diagram, the two dark blue wires are on the feed side of your ballast resistor, one is coming from the 'run' postion in your ignition switch, the other connects to the voltage regulator. The ballast resistor will lower the current feeding the coil. The output side of the ballast resistor is where one blue and one brown are connected. The blue wire feeds the coil, and the brown wire comes from the ignition switch's 'start' position, and will bypass the ballast resistor to give full power to the coil via the blue wire, only when starting the engine. You can measure the voltage coming in through the twin blue wires on the resistor feed side, it should be the same as your battery's voltage when the ignition switch is turned on. Measuring on the other side, depending on the size of the resistor, you should have a lower reading in the blue wire, the brown wire should give full voltage only when twisting your ignition key to the 'start' position. When converting to HEI, and the ballast resistor is removed and the wires are connected, the blue wire feeding the old coil is the one you should connect to the relay #86 to trigger it.
I guess you referred to the circuit diagram low in the HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To page. There is drawn one brown GROUND wire from the alternator's mount to a mounting screw for the coil bracket, and the same point would be a logic choice for the #85 ground wire for the relay. The input to the relay #30 terminal could be from the alternator output wire terminal, it is closer than the battery. Dan's text describing the diagram should cover it all.
If you bought the wire connector Standard #S-539 or it's twin, the Summit #PCO-5712PT 'Ford ignition coil connector', for your FD-478X coil, as shown in the picture on the same page, it will have two green wires running from the negative (-) terminal. One of them is connected to terminal C on the ignition module, and the other can be used for attaching a rev counter. The single red wire is positive (+) and connects to the module terminal B, and they both connect to the output from the relay's terminal #87 (with a red wire, of course?).
Another link worth browsing is MOPARZWALKER's thread HEI Conversion Finished and Lessons Learned.
The Napa Echlin MO3000 rotor should be used together with a Standard Bluestreak CH-410X dizzy cap (with copper alloy posts - stock are aluminum). The MO3000 rotor has a tip that is .060" longer than stock, and is made from a superior material. The only source other than Napa itself is dmauto.com, if ordering online, search by brand ECH to find it. If ordering by email, use the part number MO3000.
As far as I know, no one else makes it.
I hope this was useful to you. Also take a look at page 1 in this thread, there are posts from Dan and others regarding other ignition modules available in Australia. You should take the time to sit down and read through ALL pages in the threads about HEI, there are lots of tips. I also sent you a pm.
A lot of material about the same HEI conversion can be found in different AMC and Jeep forums, definitely worth looking through.
Re: powerwagonpaul's heatsink: Sounds perfect, just use plenty of the supplied paste (same as for a CPU) to ensure good heat transfer from the module to the heat sink. Your radio will tell you loud and (un)clear if you need a capacitor!
Olaf.
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thought about mounting it on the radiator support over a hole so cool (109) air can blow on it.also wondering about putting a capacitor on the power feed. is it needed?
