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HEI electronic ignition discussion
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28732		 Page 15 of 34
Author:  KenUSA [ Sun Mar 13, 2011 5:28 am ]
Post subject: 
Were you able to implement every step of the HEI conversion- including the separate wire from the source through a power relay?

Did you try to reverse the wires "C-" & "+" on the ECU? Also. the photo on the retrofit post makes it look like those two wires are attached to the same contact on the coil. In fact they are not.

I notice in the photos you posted of the installed distributor, the dizzy is turned to the limit of the adjustment slot. I leave the bolt on the other side of the adjustment strap slightly loose until I get things pretty close, then snug it and reset my timing.
Author:  willard [ Sun Mar 13, 2011 8:29 am ]
Post subject: 
Many thanks for your reply. And indeed i was looking for "retards" instead of "delayed, thanks!

I didn't use the relay and just hooked it up to the "relay trigger", can this make a difference? Because i've seen many using it without the relay.
And i didn't try to reverse the C- and C+ because i thought the ''B'' should always be hooked up to the Battery +. I do however tried reversing the wires from the distributor, but the engine only runs at one combination.

Thanks for the tip. I have this only now because the engines hasn't enough advance when the choke is on.

So i can try reversing the "B" and "C" on the ECU without ruining it? :)
Author:  Fopar [ Sun Mar 13, 2011 11:05 am ]
Post subject: 
I found when I set up my distributer machine to run the HEI, if the 2 wires from the distributer are reversed it would read retarding as the speed was increased. Simply change (rotate) the 2 wires from distributer on the modual.

Richard
Author:  olafla [ Sun Mar 13, 2011 11:42 am ]
Post subject: 
Hi willard.

Regarding using a relay, or not:

You should measure the voltage at your battery, and then at the connections to the ignition module. You may have quite a loss through your old wires, and a relay is used only to ensure full voltage to the ignition module. I have pics of the loss in the link Gm Hei Module Conversion Troubles

Olaf.
Author:  KenUSA [ Sun Mar 13, 2011 1:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
My mistake on reversing c- &+. The pair from the distributor are the two that can be reversed.
Author:  61 V200 [ Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Wiring check
I have the GM 96-2000 module/coil combo and am trying to get a handle on the wiring before I install it. I have connectors with wire but no terminal I.D.'s.
I've made the assumption that the wire colors were consitent throughout the harness I clipped the connectors from.

Does this look right?
Image

Also, what is the general consensus on using this as opposed to the 4 pin module and seperate coil?

Thanks in advance for any and all input.
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sat Apr 02, 2011 5:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Wiring check
Quote:
Does this look right?
Doesn't look correct to me. If I remember, correctly, both white wires on the coil are one and the same. The one white wire goes from the module to the coil, as shown. The other white wire is for a tach signal, if used. The pink wire gets +12 volts, and is connected to the coil and module. The main problem I see is the module for the model years you listed, does not connect directly to the distributer. The dist feeds the computer, and the computer sends a 5 volt square wave to the module. That module will not work properly, if at all, being triggered by a slant six electronic distributer.
Author:  61 V200 [ Sat Apr 02, 2011 6:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Charlie

My bad......didn't read the conversion instructions thoroughly enough. :oops:
Looks like I need to junk the module and get a different 4 pin as referenced in the initial instructions.
Oh well, all is not lost. Got a nice mounting bracket and workable coil for little $.

Thanks again......for making me read the instructions :lol:
Author:  ARMYdodge83 [ Sun Apr 03, 2011 5:28 pm ]
Post subject:  bad coil
i just finished wiring in the HEI. module and it wont turn over. it will just crank. i put a multimeter to all 4 posts and with the ignition on i have power at all 4 points dont think this is normal. when i disconect the wire that goes to pin C. from the - side of the coil and i have 11 vlts .. this means my coil is shot right ???????
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
What module are you using?
Where do you have 11volts? At the coil - or at the module?
Author:  ARMYdodge83 [ Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
using a orielys, master pro 4 pin module. when everything is wired up. i have power at all 4 pins 11 volts. Then i test the coil still with everything hooked up i have 11 volts at the + side of the coil and 11 volts at - side of the coil. then i disconnected the - wire at the module i believe it is pin C and i still have 11 volts at that wire that is coming off the - side of the coil. i haven't done the resistance check on the coil yet but i'm looking that up as we speak.
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
That description of the module does not help. Give me apart number or the original application for the part.
If you disconnect the wire from the coil- to the module, you should have the same voltage on both terminals of the coil, with ign on, and not cranking. The module makes the ground circuit on the - side of the coil. However you should not have battery voltage at the module terminals that hook to the distributor.
Author:  ARMYdodge83 [ Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
its an masterpro 2-7000

i hooked everything up and disconnected the input wire for the distributer cap and put it to the valve cover were i scraped good metal and no spark at all..


i read this a couple posts back. about running a grounding jumper wire from the module hold down bolts to the alternator. could that be it.
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ok, that is the correct module. You don't need to run a wire to the alternator, but yes the module hold down screw does need to be grounded. Also bypass the ballast resistor, you need more then 11 volts for it to work properly. Are you sure the distributor is putting out a signal?
Author:  ARMYdodge83 [ Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
havent or even know how to sense if its putting out a signal.
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