Normally it runs at the spot between the E and the M on temp - mostly towards the E side too - now it is running on the M... and leaning towards the P...

I had to run the fan the whole time to keep it at that area too...

Before, I did not have to run the fan at all - except if I was sitting at a light for any length of time...

I will be taking it out this morning while it is still cool and seeing how hot it gets - then bring it back and start taking it apart again... dammit dammit dammit

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

There shouldn't be too much to take apart. If the motor is running then it is something external like a timing adjustment or maybe a failing or incorrectly installed thermostat. A too-lean carb will also cause a motor to run hot.

What mix of radiator fluid are you running?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Did you remove the Dist. when you started all this? If so, I bet your a tooth or 2 off from where it was before all this. Why put the Drivers side back on to go for a drive? Get that SOB dialed in before putting everything back together. I'm kinda on your way home and slightly outta the way, west of Sac off I80.

Same thermostat...
Radiator fluid is rated at around 240+ degrees using a tester...

69 - you are in Oroville if I remember correctly?
That is about 600 miles from here! LOL

I am going to take the side and top off again when I get back from warming it up and then leave it off when I have to take it out for another test run...

I found tdc by watching the valves going up and down and I also did the pressure on the thumb test - so I was pretty damn sure I had tdc found. I marked it on the damper and then tried to start it - no go... by the time it started, it is about 4 inches below the mark on the passenger side of the rig...

Yes I have moved the rotor - one tooth at a time - that is how it started and is running now...

I also know the carb is out of adjustment - 500 Holley 2 barrel and it has always been a problem for me to adjust correctly.

How can I adjust it for a basic run at this point???

Sorry for not being an expert at all this... I am just knowledgeable to be somewhat dangerous...

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

The radiator fluid might be rated for 240 degrees, but is it undiluted? Did you dilute it with water like you are supposed to? What ratio of water to concentrate?

Any chance the thermostat was installed backwards? I have made this mistake before.

I doubt you need to pull the distributor again. If the engine is running decent enough to drive around you likely just need to turn it a few degrees.

Do I undertand you correctly that you are using a timing mark you made by watching the valves and putting your finger over the hole instead of the fatory mark on the damper? Watching the valves open and close and holding your thumb over the spark plug hole will get you in the neighborhood of TDC on the compression stroke. but you have to use a piston stop tool to make a new timing mark accurately. If you have no reason to believe the outer ring of the damper has slipped, go back to using the factory timing mark to set your base timing.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Since day one this damper has been extremely suspect and way off.
There are at least 3 separate marks now.
Here is a pic of what it looks like - the lowest mark is the new one I made - the one above it is one of the old ones, and above the timing tab - as another one!!!


The thermostat was never touched or taken out and yes it has been diluted Reed...

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

I'm in Vacaville, which is about 10+ miles west of Davis.

Oh!!! Gotcha! lol

I turned the distributor all the way counter clockwise and it is still running.
I also found if I work on the carb adjustments that it seems to work better.

I also notice water coming out of the exhaust pipe - not sure if it is because I have it sitting for awhile and then only running it for a few minutes???

Going to button it up and take a quick spin around the neighborhood and see what it does now...

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Water is a natural byproduct of the combustion process and will stop as the exhaust system warms up. Seems how you've already played with the carb, there's not much you can do now. You should make absolute sure that the timing is correct before tweekin the carb. As said somewhere, you can use a vacuum gauge to get everything dialed in, if not it's a shot in the dark and listening to how the motor reacts when a change is made. If you can make it up here with no problems, I can help get you dialed in for the rest of the ride home. Good Luck

I have the distributor at the limit of counterclockwise...
Which to me, means pulling the distributor and moving the rotor another tooth - which way do I need to move the rotor to accomplish this???

I do not have a vacuum gauge and do not know how to use one if I did have it!!! LOL dammit dammit dammit!!!

Also, I have the Grapevine to get over before I get to your place in Vacaville!!!
So I better have this thing figured out before I try that trip again!

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

So which way do I move the rotor to make the timing mark move further counterclockwise???

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Hey, which way do I move the rotor in the distributor to make the timing mark move clockwise towards the timing tab on the damper?

Sorry, I need to move the timing mark clockwise upwards towards the timing tab...

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

As you look at the front of the engine, the crankshaft rotates in a clockwise direction. If you are looing at the damper/timing mark from the passenger side of the engine, that means the timing mark will travel from bottom to top.

If the timing mark is showing up far below the timing tab, this means the spark plug is firing too early. Put another way, the timing is too advanced.

The rotor turns clockwise in the distributor. To advance the timing the distributor body is moved counterclockwise OR if the dist. is pulled the rotor is moved clockwise.

It sounds like your timing is too far advanced. If the distributor is turned counterclockwise hard up against the limit of the holddown clamp then you have fully advanced the tming. You need to retard your timing. With the engine running, loosen the hold down clamp bolt just enough to be able to turn the distributor and rotate the distributor clockwise SLOWLY while watching the timing mark (you may need two people to accomplish this). Put the timing at about 5 BTDC for now.

You will likely need to increase the curb idle speed since retarding the timing will also lower the idle speed.

Some slant dampers came with three timing marks from the factory. It is critical that you either identify which one corresponds to your TDC or you make a new mark that you KNOW accurately indicates TDC (meaning you either use a piston stop tool [preferabl;e] or you stick something in the plug hole and slowly rotate the crank until the item stops being pushed up by the piston).

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Well, I tried moving the rotor counter clockwise and it acts like it is never going to fire.

So I move it the other way and it does not start - just keeps cranking - I had to go and borrow the battery charger again...

I am going to have to try and find TDC a freekingain! Every time I think I have it the damn thing shows me I am wrong...

This is really pissing me off - to the point I may sell the damn thing to get home!!!


Edited to add: Reed - I was at the stop trying to move it upwards at the last go round...

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Sorry you are having these problems. If I were in your situation, I would take break, have a cold one, and get a piston stop tool and a bolt for the crankshaft. Then the next time you make a timing mark you will know it is dead on accurate and you will never have to do it again PLUS you will have a bolt in the crank to turn the engine over with.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.