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| HEI electronic ignition discussion https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28732 |
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| Author: | ARMYdodge83 [ Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:44 pm ] |
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oh the little things in life. so i drill fresh bolt holes for the new module and bolt it all up and nothing works  . low and behold theres two wierd ill call them black nubs about a 1/4 long offset of the actual bolt holes on the metal plate side. so i decide to make pilot holes for them and now the module is fully seated on fresh ground metal, go to crank the engine blammmoooo!!! fires up. so thanks for all your trouble shooting charlie.
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| Author: | Fopar [ Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:36 pm ] |
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Quote: oh the little things in life. so i drill fresh bolt holes for the new module and bolt it all up and nothing works
Don't forget to use the paste that should have came with the modual, it is a heat sink paste that goes between the modual's metal back and the mounting plate. . low and behold theres two wierd ill call them black nubs about a 1/4 long offset of the actual bolt holes on the metal plate side. so i decide to make pilot holes for them and now the module is fully seated on fresh ground metal, go to crank the engine blammmoooo!!! fires up. so thanks for all your trouble shooting charlie.Richard |
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| Author: | ARMYdodge83 [ Mon Apr 04, 2011 3:53 am ] |
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yup, i remembered that . thanks |
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| Author: | ARMYdodge83 [ Wed Apr 13, 2011 5:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | plug gap |
hello everyone, my stock plugs call for a .035 gap on my copper plugs. since my update to the HEI MODULE could i open the gap to .045 or .050 will there be a noticeable gain or nothing really except if i hook it up to a dyno. thanks alot. 225 / 1983 2bl |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:09 am ] |
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If you are using an HEI-appropriate coil, the Echlin MO-3000 rotor, a good quality cap, and good quality plug wires and plugs, use 0.045" gap. Do not use 0.050" which is beyond the point of diminished returns and will serve only to increase wear and tear on the secondary side of the ignition system. |
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| Author: | ARMYdodge83 [ Wed Apr 13, 2011 5:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | blaster 2 coil |
im running a blaster two coil. with a bog warner cap and rotor, 8.5 MM MSD wires. so the only thing i would have to upgrade to is the echlin MO-3000 rotor. what would be the best HEI COIL? |
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| Author: | Ross [ Wed May 04, 2011 5:46 pm ] |
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Hey guys Ok so I didn't read the whole thread here, but I'm doing the hei conversion this weekend. Got a gm hei coil and the connectors and the module. Dizzy is ordered and I need to get an ignition relay. My question is, what do I do with the start wire? I have lean burn so there are two pickups on the dizzy. Thanks Cody |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed May 04, 2011 6:37 pm ] |
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Quote: Hey guys
The new distributor will have only two wires, not four like on your present dizzy. Read the whole thread; it has diagrams and explanations.
Ok so I didn't read the whole thread here, but I'm doing the hei conversion this weekend. Got a gm hei coil and the connectors and the module. Dizzy is ordered and I need to get an ignition relay. My question is, what do I do with the start wire? I have lean burn so there are two pickups on the dizzy. Thanks Cody |
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| Author: | Ross [ Wed May 04, 2011 8:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well I read the hei thread. Not the disscussion. But When it says to take the ballast resistor connectors and cnnect them together would that be like me connecting the run and start pickups together? |
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| Author: | Ross [ Wed May 04, 2011 8:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok Dan. Looked through the whole discussion. Saved the pictures. I have another question. Does it mater how I put the dizzy in other than the rotor needs to be in the same location? |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed May 04, 2011 10:29 pm ] |
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Quote: Well I read the hei thread. Not the disscussion. But When it says to take the ballast resistor connectors and cnnect them together would that be like me connecting the run and start pickups together?
No. The HEI conversion discussions are usually geared towards converting cars built with points or standard electronic ignition. Vehicles originally built with a lean-burn computer controlled ignition system (like yours) did not have a ballast resistor. There is no need to bridge the ballast resistor because there is no ballast resistor.Converting a lean-burn ignition equipped vehicle to HEI is very easy. The two leads go to the distributor, the coil (-) lead goes to the coil (-) terminal, and the HEI module (+) lead goes to the (+) feed relay. On a vehicle originally built with a lean burn ignition system, you can draw the (+) feed for the relay trigger from the (+) coil lead or from the big fat black (+) feed for the lean-burn computer. Those are the only four connections you need to worry about. The orientation of the distributor is important only insofar as you have enough play to adjust the timing to the right setting. |
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| Author: | Ross [ Thu May 05, 2011 8:07 am ] |
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Ok thanks reed. I know how to go from the module to the dizzy. What I'm confused with is what do I do with the start lead that goes to the dizzy? Dont I need that to start the engine? Where do I wire that wire to? That's the only part im confused on! I was looking at the diagram and it showed the start wire on the other side of the ballast resistor. Would I splice the run and start wires together and then wire it to the ignition relay? That's kinda what it looks like in the diagram I just want to be sure before I start. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Thu May 05, 2011 10:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The factory wiring going to the distributor is completely abandoned. Both the Start and Run plugs will no longer be used. You will have two plugs dangling down the side of your block by the distributor. You will be wiring in a completely new and independent plug for the distributor that will run straight from the HEI module to the distributor. The relay for the (+) feed to the HEI module will only interface with a switched lead in the factory wiring harness. No other splicing or jumping is required. |
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| Author: | Ross [ Thu May 05, 2011 11:50 am ] |
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Nevermind! Sorry for the confusion. There is a light green wire with a yellow tracer that goes to the start connector to the dizzy and a light green wire that goes to the alternator that goes up to the firewall. I got them mixed up cuz they're so close in color. I'm good now. Thanks for the help guys. |
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| Author: | Ross [ Thu May 05, 2011 12:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok reed one more question. Sorry. Ok so number 86 on the ignition relay goes to start/run switch, where do I put that? I'm looking in my manual it looks to be positive, so could I use the coil positive there? I'm using an hei coil too like th one in the diagram, so should I have the positive to #30, ign positive to #86, then #85 is ground and #87 is pink wire on grey connector of coil. I just wanna be sure before I tear wires out this weekend. I can post a pic of my setup wired with coil relay and module if needed. |
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