#86 goes to any (+) switched lead. I recommend using the fat black or red wire that used to power the Lean-Burn computer. I have also used the coil (+) wire as the switched (+) lead or one of the blue wires coming off of the alternator.

Here are the engine compartment wiring diagrams for an 83 van with lean burn. Your 82 truck should be fairly similar:







In this diagram, you basically want to use any lead that passes through the (+) "spider" connection that is depicted be low the alternator in the second page of the diagram. These are all switched (+) leads that will work as a trigger for the relay.

Yeah that's what I thought. I was gonna use that "spider" for 86. Then with 30 I just need a 15amp fuse, could I use the same spider to wire that to also?

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

I would follow Dan's recommendation and hook #30 straight to the positive battery terminal.

Ok I pulled a online fuse holder off a truck at pick n pull today just need a 15 amp fuse for it. It had a 20amp in it.

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

ok guys. im done with it. she runs much better. here are some pics of my setup. i took all the leanburn wires and pulled them to the side to show what kind of mess they are.

Before:

Leanburn computer

Mess of wires after conversion. twelve wires, over 50ft of wire there.


After conversion:
Whole setup


Looks a little messy but ill clean it up. I cleaned it up a little more after the pic.

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Yep, lean burn is WAY messier than HEI.

Looking to buy an SMP FD478X coil for the HEI retrofit.

But have noticed I'm gonna need a mount or bracket to fit it on... is it possible to buy these new? Any websites that can help? Have tried Rockauto, etc. but no luck

I'm in NZL, otherwise I'd probably go to a junkyard to grab one.

If you cannot find an american Ford van or pickup, try looking for the bracket off a Mazda, a lot of them used this coil.

I made my own bracket. There is also a nice bracket (and coil) for the australian Bosch setup, take a look BUCKET 656's very clean setup.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Yep, that Ape HEI set-up looks tight.

I'll come up with somethin'

Hey guys. I was looking into this project for my Father's Day treat of being able to spend a day without caring for babies! I could get all of the stuff new, but was trying to get a full coil pack/ignition module assembly from a ~1975 Chevy at a junkyard. I live by Detroit and believe it or not, it just doesn't exist in my area.

Can anyone tell me where these packs are available from junkyards in the country?

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<img src="http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k286/Krytellan/Vehicles/view1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">

You could always just grab this one if you're stuck:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-3-COIL ... ccessories

Actually krytellan- just realised you can't use the coil/module combo I've linked to above due to the squarewave feed it's expecting from it's GM mothership...

Sorry bout that!

That one from E-Bay will work if you trim off one of the fins (it is easy to see if you replace the module on it with the one from about early 80's chev). The conecter for the coil can be got at Rock Auto.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Decided to go new, and didn't cost too much, unless you consider the Magnecors that cost almost 75% as much as all of the other parts combined.

However, I got the Standard/Bluestreak E-coil from an older ford. I was now thinking though that since I have a canister coil in my car currently, is there a reason I would want to reconsider an E-coil type in favor of a canister one or do the E-coils just work better for this application?

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<img src="http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k286/Krytellan/Vehicles/view1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">

The stock coil does not have the correct internal resistance, and you have to use a coil designed for a HEI system. The E-core is a modern, sound construction that usually gives a much better spark, if you want an old style coil, be sure it is designed for HEI.

The 'HEI electronic ignition discussion' thread is getting so big, that it may be hard to get a quick overview, but you should definitely read about the technical reasons for going to a HEI system, follow this link, and also see the oscilloscope pics of the moment of ignition in this link.

If you need the stock bracket with cooling fins for the module, you can order this one, or just order it from a GM parts supplier, part number is ACDelco 10474610.

Olaf.

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Aspenized