What did you use Dan? Is it feasible to shorten the stock push rod? With all this accumulated experience and brain power on this board, and all the guys with the machine tools there has to be a solution.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

1" bore '67-'70 A-body disc brake MBC, stock pushrod.
Probably, but not necessary.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

yeah having no luck here still. Tried the person you mentioned Dan, talked with him but haven't heard back. Its getting to where I need a MBC in 2 weeks so I can try and get this completed. Did you ever get your hands on that Raybestos catalog so I can distinguish which MBC is for the manual and which is for the power since most places spec the same part number for both applications?

Thanks guys for the thoughts on the pushrod. Would it be possible to simply make my own?

My current thought is to get the raybestos MC36621. It says according to Rockauto.com that its a 1" bore: http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Raybestos/D ... 36221D.jpg



MJ

menko-
here you go. go get an aluminum MP/late model cylinder and get some real brakes on that toad! this adapter should work if i read the description properly. this is the one i used and kept the stock pushrod/pedal height, although i have been thinking of getting the adjustable pushrod to lower the pedal for better heel/toe action. i can send you pics of the install if you like.

http://www.arengineering.com/mastercyl/ ... ercar.html

-james

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Round and round and round goes this thread!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Deja Vous all over again.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

what? i don't rate a link back to page one? aw, shucks.

-james

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I am sure it has already been explained in this thread that this is not a disc brake master cylinder.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

the only one on Rock Auto that indicates that it is for manual disk brakes on a '68 Dart is the Cardone reman unit #101326M. The price at 14.95 is certainly attractive but as for me, I'd rather try to find a new one. I've been burned too many times with reman crap.

MPBrakes has one with a 1" bore for manual or power disks, 89.95. They also list an adjustable push rod but they don't list its specs.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Menko, at this point I think I'd just go ahead and get the '72-'75 A-body nonpower disc brake master, with the 1-1/32" bore, Bendix 11627 or equivalent, and call it good. You'll have to be a little more discriminating with brake pad material choice (you'll want a soft original-equipment type pad compound, not one of the modern "lifetime" hard compounds) but you'll have a new master that'll bolt onto your firewall and be compatible with your stock pushrod.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You're right...in my rush to find *something* I skipped the disc part

Also, I've noticed that outlet sizes on the disc/drum master cylinders are different diameters for each reservoir. The later model ones use a much more friendly and universal 3/8" female port. Why are the older ones two different sizes, and not 3/8"?

MJ

So you can only hook the correct line to the correct port.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If you order later model lines you will find the ends fit the master
cylinder. But if you use the old distribution block the end at the
distribution block will need an adapter.

You need a set of disc brake conversion hard lines - or a double
flare tool to make your own. I cut the lower fitting off a Year one
line and put on a smaller fitting and a new double flare on it. The
other line I ended up building from scratch to get the proportion
valve where I wanted it.