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Ford axles in A bawdys
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22606		 Page 3 of 6
Author:  DionR [ Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:47 pm ]
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Sounds like some are uncomfortable with swapping a driver side axle into the passenger side. The theory(?) is that the axle takes a set twisting in one direction and when you swap sides, it twists the other way. Probably not an issue if you are pushing 200 hp, maybe not 300 either. Don't know the threshold, just read it in Car Craft.

Kind of like torsion bars, except the axle better not twist as much. :lol:

If it was an issue, Moser sells replacements for $235 a set, or $120 for one.

Just something to think about.
Author:  slantzilla [ Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:43 am ]
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Ok, I know what you are talking about, but how do you align the axle tube to the bar when you push the tube into the casting? Heat?
You align the end, not the tube. The end may not be perfectly centered on the tube, but it will be straight with the carrier. This corrects for any bend in the tube, and they will bend. If the end will not align on the tube at all, we junk the housing.

I could not believe how far off 8.8 Ford ends are from the factory. You'd think they have Stevie Wonder welding for them. :shock:
Author:  440_Magnum [ Thu Apr 19, 2007 10:02 am ]
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Quote:

I could not believe how far off 8.8 Ford ends are from the factory. You'd think they have Stevie Wonder welding for them. :shock:
I remember in the 80s that a lot of GM pickups could be seen driving around with *visible* camber in the rear wheels, never noticed it so much on Phords. That's gotta be rough on the splines and bearings!
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sun Apr 22, 2007 1:01 pm ]
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I finally got an hour and a half and a company vehicle together at the same time. ...off to town!

.....the machine shop is so busy they cant look at anything less than" life and death". ....seeing how the Valaint is technically "sport" it goes to the back of their list. So I brought it all home again.

.....spent a couple of hours upgrading spring hangers and shackles. I used Chev 3/4 4x4 front spring shackles(originally 7/16 bolts) and drilled the holes out to 1/2". The holes are 1/2" farther apart on the Chev than Abody. I made a new hole 1" closer together lowering the car 1/2"on the shackle end. Yes the spring, shackles and spring mount all clear each other throughout travel. All new grade 8 1/2" bolts and Nylocs should suffice. When I get it where I want it I will weld the bolt heads to the shackles.....just enough to stake them.

The truck shackles are the same thickness but wider than A body shackles. the difference is quite noticable. When Alex put the new springs in the car a couple of years ago I was surprised at the cheezy shackles we were sent.

The JC Whitney springs Alex installed had a 9/16 bore on the big end(front). Unknowingly he reinstalled the 3/8 bolts the car came with. This allowed the spring to touch the floor on violent acceleration. Remember I have reversed the front spring mounts on my car. The mount must be removed to change the spring or bolt.
Today I drilled out the spring mounts to 9/16. Ill be using new grade 8 9/16 x4 and nylocs. The springs are ready for a new diff .
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Here is a little sidebar on one way to upgrade shackles.

My son had installed new springs 2 years ago. They work well but son installed the front spring eye using stock 3/8 bolts in a 9/16 spring bushing. The rear shackles were so puny.....

I installed 9/16 bolts in the front eye after drilling out the front spring mount. Note my mount is reversed to lower the car.

I made new rear shackles using 3/4t 4x4 front shackles....much bigger.

I redrilled the shackles to 1/2" (same size as poly bushings ) and installed 1/2 x 4" Bolts with nyloc nuts. If you use this size and tighten till the bolt is flush with the nut you get perfect clamp on the bushings.

http://www.mobmms.com/images/owner-download/21902.jpg
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Author:  slantzilla [ Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:24 pm ]
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You go Sandy! :D :D :D :D

The name of the tool supplier for the alignment kit is Mittler Brothers. :shock:
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:18 pm ]
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Why not grab an 8 3/4 out of a "C" body and shorten it?
That's what I did and had Randy's Ring and Pinion refresh the 2.76 Posi. It is about the same amount of work.
Author:  icaneat50eggs [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 12:47 pm ]
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When you shortend the c body rear, what did you do about axles? With the ford 8.8 there is no shortening or custom axle(s) needed. Just an extra passenger axle( if using the explorer rear). If you can weld, this can all be done in your garage.
Author:  DionR [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 2:55 pm ]
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Quote:
Why not grab an 8 3/4 out of a "C" body and shorten it?
That's what I did and had Randy's Ring and Pinion refresh the 2.76 Posi. It is about the same amount of work.
He's got a point. I debated about the 8.8 swap, but I've settled on the 8.75.

Dutchman's in Portland will respline axles for $85 for a pair, if the axles meet the criteria (unsplined area of axle needs to be long enough). They will do the housing too, for (I think) $120.

I was concerned about the strength of the reversed axle and would have bought at least one new axle from Moser ($120). In the end I figured for not much more I could do the 8.75.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Apr 27, 2007 4:12 pm ]
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On the axles, I found a set for an A body for cheap (about $100) and had Moser ends welded on the housings for the old style stock Timken roller bearings. Randy's Ring and Pinion did an excellent job setting up the Posi.

My 7.25 rear ends only lasted about 2 years, then start howling and explode. I went through three of them just driving 120 miles a day along the foothills of the Cascades (twisty two lane road). I really didn't want to go through the process again of swapping rear ends.

The 8.75 that I got out of an 72 Imperial works great plus I like the bigger 10" brakes on the freeway. Makes stopping super nice compared to the 9" drums.
Author:  heckshemi [ Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:13 am ]
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An 8 3/4 would be great, but it's a matter of economics. I can get an 8.8 at the local u-pull-it for $100. That's with 3.55, 3.73 or 4.10 gears and a posi, 31 spline axles, brakes (some with discs) and a 4 1/2" bolt pattern. Try to put a 8 3/4 together for that amount.
Author:  Slanted Opinion [ Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:40 am ]
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So do you suggest the 8.8 Ranger axle over the 7.5 ranger axle?
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Sat Apr 28, 2007 7:20 pm ]
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Just yanked a Ford 8" today. I think it is sold to a guy that wants to put it in a 65 Rambler.

I am not sure it may be 3:00 75 Maverick.........
Author:  DionR [ Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:52 pm ]
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Quote:
An 8 3/4 would be great, but it's a matter of economics. I can get an 8.8 at the local u-pull-it for $100. That's with 3.55, 3.73 or 4.10 gears and a posi, 31 spline axles, brakes (some with discs) and a 4 1/2" bolt pattern. Try to put a 8 3/4 together for that amount.
If you buy a new short axle (safer), I can equal it. The cost to narrow truck axles for an A-body, with the shipping, is less than that. If you run a used axles, then I can't compete.

And you still have to have the housing narrowed, so no savings there.

Gears are the sticky issue, though. If I get lucky and stop at Pull and Save every day, I should be able to pick up a truck axle with decent ratio gears.

If I have to buy gears, then the 8.8 will be cheaper.

Also, the 8.8 is a c-clip rear. Advantage 8.75.

Get the right axle and disk brakes are free. Advantage 8.8, unless you want vented disks.

6 of one, half dozen of the other.

In the end, I still feel better with the 8.75, even if it costs me a bit more.
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Sun Apr 29, 2007 6:06 pm ]
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What about a Mudstanian Fox body axle?
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sat May 12, 2007 9:26 am ]
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I picked up the housing from the machine shop yesterday. As soon as I got home I tossed the housing on top of the springs and had a look.....everything looks good.

I had a couple of hours before 9 this morning to reassemble the 8.8 and install it in the car. The stock Valaint brake hose and line T bolt right on the Explorer axle.

A set of Ubolts and spring plates for a 8 3/4 or 81/4 will bolt everthing in the stock location.

The machine shop shortened the housing by putting it in a driveline lathe (for huge logging equipment) and treating the whole operation as a driveshaft shortening.....the axle tubes being the shaft. It gets welded in the lathe. My axle tube is cut and welded in the middle. They say the whole thing is "pretty straight".....meaning "very straight" in my world.



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