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| Author: | Bren67Cuda904 [ Sun Dec 30, 2007 6:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Moparmodeler,
Ted:You don't necessarily need to swap the rear end. I run a 2.76 8 3/4 posi and can go across an intersection sideways by just pressing down a little too hard.  What size rear tires are you running? |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Dec 30, 2007 12:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Rear tires are P235 60's (Good Year Grand Am) on aluminum Outlaw II Series 62, 7" x 14" rims. |
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| Author: | Moparmodeler [ Mon Dec 31, 2007 1:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | an update |
I redid my electronic distributor. I was not able to adjust as far as I needed to go. I pulled the distributor and compared the bottom adjustment bolt with the original, they were completely set differently! I set the electronic distributor just like the original and reinstalled it. I timed the car Hillbilly style, Got it to start, set it by ear, went down the road, fooled with it some more, went down the road, fooled with it some more, monkeyed with the carb, went down the road.......... Finally came to what I believe is the best point. Now I have decent power in all ranges, but nothing to brag about. I am getting around 21mpg. My next step is going over my electrical system. I believe my alternator is not up to snuff. I am also considering a new wiring harness. 30yr. old wiring is not the best way to go. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Dec 31, 2007 10:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | Wiring |
Moparmodeler, Old harnesses are always interesting since they tell a story of what has been going on, or not going on in my case. Harnesses are somewhat modular (come apart in sections), I unplugged the engine harness and unwrapped it to find several wires that were melted. It looked like my wiring needed a blood transfussion. After getting a color wiring schematic, I could see that the alternator wire had done the most damage and melted others. The whole section was pretty crusty from being cooked by the heat all those years. Our local auto parts carries the stock MOPAR ends so I bought new wire in the right colors and guages and rebuilt the harness one wire at a time. Then I replaced the alternator wire in the next section and the other crusty wires,...........through the fire wall replacing those connectors which were burnt,.......finally as a result I had better head lights, better voltage to the coil and spark. Once you get descent voltage again the car is a little peppier.  If you can borrow a timing light I would advance it as much as you can, at least 10 degrees if not 12. My car likes 16 degrees initial. I just had to unscrew my vacuum canister about 3 turns.Good luck on the harnesses and take your time. It is well worth it. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 7:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you run that much initial advance, you might want to limit the centrifigal advance. Long stroke, small bore engines don't need or want alot of total advance. One rule of thumb for initial advance is to set it where the vacuum reading is the highest. Do a search for Duster Idiot's timing/performance report. It will be hlepful. Sam |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Tue Jan 01, 2008 11:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Noted, mechanical it is limited to 16 degrees. New electronic distributor re-curved with red primary spring and extra long looped secondary spring from a 400 distributor. I am using a 15R governor with a 11R V8 vacuum advance screwed in 3 turns. Blue Streak cap, MO-3000 Echlin rotor, Chrome Blaster 2 coil and 8mm Blue Summit wires. Timing set at 16 degrees initial, 16 degrees mechanical and 20 degrees with the vacuum advance for a 52 degree total. |
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| Author: | Moparmodeler [ Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
It's been along time, but my solution has been to Replace the carb to intake gasket, it was leaking badly. And also to replace my well worn out alternator. Things have improved greatly, I am now at 23mpg and can just barely chirp the tires. I plan on some new plugs since The fueal system was so wierd. |
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