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Twins! - Iron Block Performance Build-ups
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26159		 Page 3 of 7
Author:  Doc [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:29 am ]
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The car is a 62 Valiant and only the rear trans mount is the spool type unit.
This is one of those things that is hard to put a "before and after" number on. I can say that the engine / trans set-back worked out well in my 62 Lancer, it made radiator fitment and other clearances better. One other example, I recently installed a 1970 225 into the car and did not have to change the oil pan. :D (the sump on a 67-76 pan is ferther forward)

The car tends to leave the starting line with lot's of front-end lift and hooks-up well.

I will do some measuring on the Dacuda when it comes time to swap engines, if there is enough room in the driveshaft slip yoke and along the firewall, I will likely set that engine/trans assembly back 3/4 to 1 inch.
DD

Image
Author:  Red [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 9:51 am ]
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What's next, Doc...the wheelbase? :wink:

http://www.moparmax.com/tech/images/070 ... AWB-01.jpg
Author:  madmax/6 [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:02 pm ]
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Yes its a 62 Valiant Signet with a 3 inch chop top,Moto Guzzi Mark
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:10 pm ]
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I honestly dont think you could set the engine any further back in my 69 dart w/o hacking into the firewall - -The block hits the firewall when I swap trannies - but in an earlier a body I could see it being done with no problems. Are you cutting the firewall to accomplish this??

Greg
Author:  madmax/6 [ Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:38 pm ]
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Firewall has been moved back,,,hopefully enough,Doc says I should pick up 3 seconds with just this mod,Moto Guzzi Mark,,,,,,,kidding!
Author:  Dart270 [ Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:14 am ]
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Coincidentally, I was just thinking about setting back the engine in Project V, maybe with some firewall hammering and trans tunnel work when I put the 5spd in the V.

Lou
Author:  AnotherSix [ Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:02 am ]
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I know every little bit like this helps. Even with small v-8's an inch or two can make a big difference.

I have never worked on an inline six that had the engine moved, but it would have to help even more since so much of the engine is in front of the spindles. Most small block cars, whatever the make, have most of the engine behind the spindles already. I have not measured it, but I am thinking that almost 40 percent of the slant is in front of the spindles.

This might be a different subject, but has anyone checked the left verses right wheel weights in the front? I am not sure if it is as bad as I suspect, or worse.
Author:  Dart270 [ Wed Jan 09, 2008 2:19 pm ]
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I don't know the numbers, but a Slant has a balance advantage since the engine tilt will balance the driver.

With Cameron Tilley and his Oz Slant, this is a disadvantage since the driver's on the right! Although, many road courses run clockwise (from top), so more right turns than left.

Lou
Author:  Doc [ Wed Jan 09, 2008 2:45 pm ]
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Quote:
...maybe with some firewall hammering and trans tunnel work...
Lou
I did not have to do much hammering to get 1 inch of set-back on my 62 Lancer and most of what was needed was around the high starter location.
Be sure to do some measuring and marking on the firewall before pulling the engine out... then go at those spots with the hammer.

If you look back at the photo of the transmission I just rebuilt for this car, you will see that we did some grinding along the starter mounting pocket edge and the top parting line of the trans case, this also helps with set-back clearance.

The only bad thing that I ended-up with was little to no access to the top-most bellhousing bolt. I may simply drill a hole thru the fire wall so I can install that bolt from inside the car, then stick a plug into the access hole.
DD
Author:  Joshie225 [ Wed Jan 09, 2008 3:02 pm ]
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A friend of mine held the J-Gas record at the Madras, Oregon drag strip at one time with a Lancer. The engine set-back rule appeared to be written for V8s and stated the #1 spark plug could be no further back than the centerline of the front wheel. I think he said it was about an 8" set-back with the slant.

He wrote: "Found an old time slip from Madras Dragway for my old J/gas lancer. 14.66 @ 91 mph"

I'm pretty sure it was a 170 and I know it had a slick shifted 4-speed.
Quote:
I know every little bit like this helps. Even with small v-8's an inch or two can make a big difference.

I have never worked on an inline six that had the engine moved, but it would have to help even more since so much of the engine is in front of the spindles. Most small block cars, whatever the make, have most of the engine behind the spindles already. I have not measured it, but I am thinking that almost 40 percent of the slant is in front of the spindles.

This might be a different subject, but has anyone checked the left verses right wheel weights in the front? I am not sure if it is as bad as I suspect, or worse.
Author:  Dart270 [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 6:11 am ]
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Quote:
The only bad thing that I ended-up with was little to no access to the top-most bellhousing bolt. I may simply drill a hole thru the fire wall so I can install that bolt from inside the car, then stick a plug into the access hole.
DD
Great minds think alike. Drilling such a hole was the first thing I thought of when looking at setback.

Great story about the 170 gasser and setback, Josh.

Lou
Author:  sandy in BC [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 6:33 am ]
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I have not setback a slant motor....

But I did move the motor back 48"in our SBC400" Nash Metropolitan.....

129"wheelbase .....12" driveshaft
Author:  Doc [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 9:02 am ]
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Quote:
...129"wheelbase .....12" driveshaft
Now there's some set-back!
Do you drive it from the back seat?
DD
Author:  sandy in BC [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:06 pm ]
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You Do!
Author:  Doc [ Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:53 pm ]
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Well, we have the Guzzi engine and trans ready to go... it needs to find a ride from San Francisco to LA.

I continue to search for a decent big hub forged steel crank for Raquel, I have looked at 3 so far and did not like any of them. I have a lead on a couple of others that I hope to look at this week. I want to find one that is not deeply balance drilled at the #6 crank journal.

Anyway... I have been deburring / lightening the connecting rods, balancing the pistons / rods and had the piston pins TiNi coated. (Titanium Nitride)
I also used-up more of that special "piston paint" on the .060 forged pistons I have for this engine
We should be able to assemble the piston and rods tonight, then install the ring packs.
DD
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