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Fuel Line Mod discussion
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27470		 Page 3 of 12
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
Cool cans are okeh for the race track, where you have the hood open every 1/4 mile to replenish the ice. Not really workable or practical on the street...and not needed.
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
I shot my fuel line last summer with my infared thermometer. IIRC it was at 182*F
Author:  slantvaliant [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I shot my fuel line last summer with my infared thermometer. IIRC it was at 182*F
Was that on a rubber fuel hose or a metal line? Emissivity?
One has to be very careful with IR devices - they can fool you.
Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
metal and the carb was hot too.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat Mar 21, 2009 9:38 am ]
Post subject:  Coolers
I run a heat deflector under my carb to help keep it cooler and did Dan's fuel line mod with fuel injection hose. Click on the link high lighted in Red below to check out the mods. They made a huge difference in hot starts. Just turn the key and it's running. No more crank, crank, crank......
Author:  slantvaliant [ Sat Mar 21, 2009 10:40 am ]
Post subject: 
Most metal surfaces are very reflective of infrared radiation. That means that your reading may be altered by radiation from other things besides the fuel line.
Most of the IR temp guns have a fixed emissivity (a property related to the material, surface condition, and geometry), usually set at around 0.95.
To improve accuracy of your IR gun, put something thin with a high emissivity on the area of concern. Good quality electrical tape is usually in this range, as are common flat paints. For that matter, so is Dr. Scholl's foot spray.
For comparisons, take the measurements at the same spot every time, pointing as directly perpendicular to the surface as possible.
Author:  Andy's GT [ Sat Mar 21, 2009 11:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I should just buy big rolls of it, and vacuum hose for all the projects present and future.
not a bad thing to have, when we were working on my dart or dads truck, the closest parts store is 17 miles away, it also helps to have a parts dart in the backyard :lol:
Author:  FrankRaso [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:05 am ]
Post subject: 
In conjunction with the fuel line mod, what would be PN of the thickest carburetor base gasket that could installed under the BBD?

I see the following in the parts list: Fel-Pro 60188 future # 13-1058

I can't tell if either would be the thick or thin gasket. Is there a better gasket available than a Fel-Pro?
Author:  MichaelS [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ted S,

It appears that you have 2 fuel filters, is gas that bad in WA.? Nice looking engine compartment by the way.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
Micheals,

Yes, during the winter months it is especially bad. I only go to one station, Cenex (farm gas and old tanks). The added ethanol really doesn't help either. I can probably remove the Summit filter now that I have the Perma Cool fuel separator installed. It filters down to 2 microns. The stainless Summit unit was all that I was using for quite awhile but it really didn't get it all the water out. That is why I put two in-line. Now I can sit in traffic for two hours idling at 600 rpm in gear with every thing on and the engine never misses a beat the the 1920 fuel bowel stays cleaner than whistle. Nice insurance........especially when its freezing.

Thanks, just took those shots last week. It has almost 50,000 on it since the rebuild two years ago. Still a torque monster.

Still making the nice MOPAR decals? :D
Author:  lowbudget [ Thu May 21, 2009 11:58 am ]
Post subject: 
Just a quick heads up. I did the mod today and the Dorman 492-024 didn't have enough meat on the flare to make total contact with the the fuel inlet of my Holley 1945. After switching gaskets. inlets and the Doman 90 I finally looked and saw the threads didn't go all the way down in the inlets. I ended up using the old fuel line. It was almost bent at 90 degrees. FYI
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu May 21, 2009 12:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
Weird, never run into that problem — sounds like a defective component (incorrectly-formed threads on one part or the other). Retry w/new inlet fitting and/or new Dorman fitting as necessary.
Author:  lowbudget [ Thu May 21, 2009 2:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
I looked at 3 different inlets they all have threads short of bottoming out. I tried one from 78 carb with the same results. The Dorman fittings were in a dorman box but bagged in a Eaton bag in the box. I tried 3 of the 5 fittings I got. The fuel pump sealed right up. I tightened it as much as I figured was safe for brass. Got tired of messing with it so I just used original line, which worked fine.
Author:  Ed Mullen [ Thu May 21, 2009 5:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Does anyone make FI clamps with fractional hexes?
I've never seen them.

If it's important enough for you, why not make your own?: remove the original screw, drill and tap to a slightly larger SAE thread, and use SAE hex machine screws (and maybe a washer under the head).

or...epoxy cheap metric sockets on each head and turn with a 1/4" socket set nut driver or ratchet.
Author:  Jester [ Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm having trouble finding the dorman fittings in my area (vancouver, bc). any ideas? also, what length of fi hose is needed? expensive stuff...
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