The wide band will work with leaded gas but will die an early life. 5k-12k miles (depending on lead content) according to my instruction manual.

what torque are you using on your head studs.just checked the compression #1 is 5lbs down from the close other cyl, put 100lbs air on that cyl and no air in coolant passage but some leaking on intake and ex valves. this is the 6th time the gasket has been replaced on this block and head combo,when i feel i have my setup i am going to need another head and block, these two have seen allot of abuse over the last 3yrs.

The studs are torqued to the recomended amount by ARP (and using the provided moly paste). My memory fails me but I think it was 75 ft/lbs.

yes it is 75 but i torqued mine 85with oil last time and i am 90with oil this time,will she running again sounds good , when she cools i am going to check comp on #1 again. one thing i found is the electric motor on the water pump was starting to give up it is tight to turn and has a knock when you turn it back and forth, don`t know if it over heated and then blew the hose now , have to think about that one.

Ouch. That would be a bummer if that was the case. a lot of work.

My slant has 10-15psi diff on compression. Don't think 5 psi should matter much. Are you sure it is leaking past the valves? When ever I change valve springs with the head on, I use air pressure and I always thought it was blowing past the rings. I also snugged the studs and torqued the nuts to 90 using the moly. I think if you use oil it needs to be well into the 100's (my sheet is at the shop so not for sure). Also, do you have a boost referenced fuel regulator? AV gas is low lead and only $3.80 a gallon.

I think this is correct, I just went more because of my gasket blowing problem also.

no i have a normal regulator, from what i have searched you only need a boost reference regulator if you have blow through carbs, i have draw through, the boost regulator will keep the pressure over the psi on the intake charge so the fuel will keep flowing through the carbs.

I just checked my sheet. 70 with moly and 85 with 30wt oil

Your right, I'm a dork.

there `s no need for that

Terry, why not just put it on race gas or methanol. Methanol will probably save you a ton of headaches.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

thats the long and short of it up hear, race fuel is 860$can a drum and you have to by the drum,methynol is twice that, i was hoping to get a tuneup on this engine so i could go as fast as i can with out breaking parts on fuel that was the cheaps and easiest to get. supreme and methyel hydrate only will cost me 34$ a weekend for fuel, race fuel is just over 100$

But how much fun is pulling the head every weekend? Gotta factor that in too.

I do understand about the trying not to break stuff though. That is why I bought a light car. I think I can get away from spraying and go to something more conventional.

Worst part of running boost is that when you get a good run or two in there is too much temptation to go after "just a little bit more"......

I have to wonder why methanol is twice race gas up there? It is about 1/2 what race gas is here.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

i no this is not fun but i do believe i can make it work with what i have . i know that the ultamate prformance might not be seem with reduced octane and timing to make it work. but with my budget for race weekend i have to do what i can, it seems everything shipped here is inflated as soon as it hit the boat