Or you have the wrong damper... depending on how you want to look at it.
(How you want to look at the timing marks )

For me, I alway swap the cover and damper over to the 68 and later set-up.
With the later set-up, I can stand on the passenger side of the car, view the timing mark / tab and reach down to adjust the distributor, from that position.
DD

I would rather have the correct timing cover. Finding one would be the hardest problem And maybe installing it, since I am not really a mechanic, or mechanic type. My family is stunned I have his all apart like this. They don't know the great help I get from you guys.

PM me your address and I will send you the correct timing chain cover but you are right to say, it is not a simple job to swap it onto the engine.
DD

My PMs are still sitting in the outbox for some reason. So I emailed to your regular email address.

I got it & will mail-out a cover today.
DD

Thanks. Doing this work will be challenging for me, having never gone down this path before. And it will probably fix that wobbly looking damper. So I see this correcting two problems. But now that tempts me with a cam. AGH!!! Once I pull that timing sprocket off, and the cam is right there...... AGH...... decisions, decisions.

Let me give you a word of advice from someone who suffers hopelessly from "project creep": One thing at a time. Right now you are having trouble getting your car to run right. Before you go changing variables like swapping cams, get the combination you have running good. Not only is this cheaper, but in the long run it is also easier since it cuts down on diagnosis time when you try and figure out why the engine isn't running the way you want it to.

I understand the temptation to do everything all at once, but I caution against it.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

the explanation for the PM sitting in the "outbox" - it will stay there until it is read by the recipient.it will then show as "sent".
so -- do'nt worry about it,it HAS gone.

regards,Rod

Thanks for the advice. I am not real sure what you meant by me having problems with getting my car to run right. We settled the blown spark plug problem. A screwhead somehow got in the cylinder. Once I removed it, once I put the engine back together it should run like it did before the plugs were getting hit. That wasn't a real change of timing or anything.

So the only change proposed at this time, is the timing cover. That should give no reason for the car not to start.

Possibly, I am looking at timing chain and camshaft. Isn't it normal to do those two things together?

I really do appreciate your concern. It's like you really know my mechanical skills. But I only see these changes:

1) removal of items blowing up spark plugs
2) timing chain cover

possible

3) timing chain
4) camshaft

And I don's see the first two causing any reason for the car to not start.

I think some impression might have been made by people assuming my damper slipped. But it hasn't. The only problem I had there was a mismatch of cover and damper - period.


Thanks. And nothing is solid how far I will take this.

Okay. I thought you were having trouble getting your motor timed right. But if a new timing cover fixes this, and you already have the head off, now would be an excellent time to go ahead and swap the cam out. Don't forget new lifters and don't forget to degree the cam to make sure that the new timing set is accurate.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

My officemate told me with my mechanical skills, and lack of knowledge about cams, to drop that idea. And instead, since I have the head off, get some larger valves. So I am looking at the valves on EBAY. It looks like they might be larger valves, but the same stem size. If so, I would probably go that route instead.

Well, how much does your officemate know about cars? Frankly, a cam swap is cheaper and easier than going to oversize valves. That takes some involved machining to work. While you are in there you might as well port the runners and do a three angle valve job.

I would recommend starting with just a cam swap if you really want to start changing the motor around.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

My 2 cents.......if you are going to do some project creeping, do the bigger valves AND and cam.... You can get a nice kit from Comp cams, and the engine builder valves are great......those are the valves going into my race engine. Be prepared to spend some $ though.....maybe buy the can stuff, and take the head in after you have the valves.....then once you have it all, do the cam swap, and head bolt on......just avoid taking to much apart and alot of time in between then and putting it back together.
Andrew/Kidd

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

Here is my coworkers take on it. He know when I came up to him saying "They are talking about getting some kind of degrees correct when installing the cam". He knows me hearing that, is like my dog hearing me telling it to pee in the toilet. It just doesn't sink in. His take is, for about the same amount of money, I could do the larger valves, and all I have to do is take the head into the machine shop, and then install the head. In other words, something I can easily handle. Or, I could do the cam, and have a major headache. As I don't have one, the knowledge. And two, the access to remove the engine, and place to really work on it, other than the garage floor. So to me, the valves sound like something I can handle, the cam sounds like too much to take on. Out of the two, I would prefer the 270 cam. But, to make life easy, the valves look the way to go.

Price wise, I assume the 270 cam would require the double springs. $252 plus shipping. Then machine shop work to install the double springs. So that could be in the low to mid $300s maybe.

Getting the valves at $78 including shipping. The machine shop said $200 for a valve swap. $40 to get all 12 ports sized for the new valves, as long as the valves are the same height. $318.

I am thinking the easy way out - oversize valves.