Slant Six Forum :: Oil question

if I want to go nuts I can add some Lucas

I am concerned about the lower levels of zinc

Your slant will run fine with any modern oil without additives.

Synthetic resist fuel dilution

True :What will seep to crank case is consistent

But how Conventional and synthetic react is different

The 1806 has a built in standpipe to keep oil in the filter. It's an alternative to the pumps that didn't have one. Also doesn't have the check valve in it like the mopar pipes did to help with flow.

51806 has a built-in standpipe to keep the filter full of oil in base-down applications (such as ours). You can read about it if you dig deep enough in the literature, or you can see it with your eyes if you look into the filter's central hole. Other than that, 51806 and 51515 are practically the same.

The ultra-super-premium filter from a filtration and longevity standpoint is a synthetic-media item such as Wix 51515XP or Fleetgard LF3487, but it has no standpipe.

Author:	Joshie225 [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:51 am ]
Post subject:
Huh. I really wonder how a '68 and newer 225 is so much more "open" than any other normally aspirated engine with a PCV valve and a crankcase breather that vents into the air cleaner? EFI is of huge benefit in the elimination fuel wash down of cylinders and reducing contamination of the engine oil. Mis-adjusted chokes, bad choke pull-offs and anything else that dumps excess fuel will wash the lubrication form the cylinder walls and wear out the rings and cylinders. Cold running is also a serious problem. I have a 2001 Dakota with over 200k miles on the clock and it has much less ring and cylinder wear than my 45k mile '67 Valiant. The Dakota spent many hours on the highway without being shut off and has EFI. The Valiant appears to have been used on short trips and had a defective carburetor (power valve circuit always open). The Dakota has also lived it's entire life on modern engine oils.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:14 pm ]
Post subject:
Joshie225, Good points! on keeping the choke adjusted and the temps up. The 0-30W Mobil 1 and Wix 1806 make a good combination for my rebuild. I posted a shot of the plugs after 35,000 miles on the red my space link below. I am still running the stock choke but have the spring adjusted pretty light so the new pull off works pretty quick so as to keep wash down to a minimum. I keep a 195 degree Super Stat in it so it stays pretty toasty. The electric fan kicks on at 210 degrees. My oil stays clean for a long time, at least to about 1500 miles. Running a little water injection seems to keep the contaminents down and flushed out. The end of the exhaust pipe looks like the plugs, a light amber color. No sooty build up like I used to see before the rebuild.

Author:	Mr.6 [ Sat Apr 29, 2017 8:10 am ]
Post subject:	Oil choice for the slant
Recently I spoke to a 70 year old guy , who liked my truck and when he heard it had a slant , he smiled & said the way to use that motor , envision your hand being slammed in a door . That's how to use that motor . My father's slant 6 van had no care & ran well . The slant's base personality is very forgiving to motor abuse That being said , I want the best oil for the slant . I'm not settled yet since my truck was sitting for 2 years I used a low cost 10w40 wall mart for now I put STP in reluctantly for the ZDDP So now i'm trying to decide the best balance of ZDDP and proper oil Proper weight oil is important . To those who live generally in warm climates it's an easy choice A Rottela wont be a problem . Winter here in the north can go 15 below & Zero is normal . I like synthetic due to the cold flow-ability along with detergency . here is a link on Mobil one ZDDP https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pv ... -guide.pdf The word from Mobil is there is enough zinc dialkyldithiophosphate in the 5 w And Up Weights Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage Full Synthetic has has nice levels of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate So for me , the consensus will be Mobil one , if I want to go nuts I can add some Lucas Zinc break in oil also

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Apr 29, 2017 9:10 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Oil choice for the slant
Quote: if I want to go nuts I can add some Lucas Yup, that would be nuts. It's a mistake to think that if some ZDDP is good, more must be better and a lot more must be a lot better.

Author:	sandy in BC [ Sat Apr 29, 2017 9:14 am ]
Post subject:
Your slant will run fine with any modern oil without additives. I would use 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter with a good filter. ....or a good 5w30 all year long if you have no leaks.

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Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:25 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I am concerned about the lower levels of zinc In the vehicle lighting technical standards and specification world, we have our list of myths and half-understood bits of information that we roll our eyes about people swearing it's gospel truth right out of the Bible. The oil people have the same tribulation: the general public reads a well-intentioned but out-of-date, incomplete, and oversimplified article, think they've understood that they have to use a high-ZDDP oil in their old car, and then go shouting it all over the internet, whereupon someone else goes "Hey, yeah, I read the same thing!" and the myth gets amplified. The evolution of engine oil antiwear chemistry did not start or end with Zinc, Phosphorus, or ZDDP. Don't worry about it unless worrying makes you happy, in which caseâ€¦worry! Quote: Your slant will run fine with any modern oil without additives. +1

Author:	Mr.6 [ Sat Apr 29, 2017 6:47 pm ]
Post subject:
If your saying no need to worry of the ZDDP I'd just as soon use a wall-mart 10W30 or 40 in summer & 5 w 30 in winter and an oil change each 3 months as the owners manual says The lower cost wall-mart & filter will allow that with little guilt . BUT In the long run I tend to give in and use synthetics , those I change every 6 months . I'm convinced there better with the northern cold and long winters of north east PA . These days 5 qt's Mobil one is $25 at wall-mart other brands even down to $20 . The main commonsense of a synthetic is it flows well in the cold & it's said most wear occurs at start up . Synthetic resist fuel dilution also & that is some thing carburetor motors have a bit of compared to modern computer adjusted motors . Heck Mobil One 10W30 has ZDDP also

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:00 pm ]
Post subject:
Don't worry about ZDDP. Do worry about oil and (especially) filter quality. Quote: Synthetic resist fuel dilution That is not correct. The oil doesn't have a say in how much fuel gets into the crankcase.

Author:	Mr.6 [ Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:45 pm ]
Post subject:
True :What will seep to crank case is consistent But how Conventional and synthetic react is different Conventional oil mixes , like all for one and one for all reducing VI ( viscosity Index ) Full synthetic oil has better VI, and protects better against wear once it has been diluted by fuel. http://www.lubricants.total.com/news/fu ... fects.html

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Sun Apr 30, 2017 12:17 am ]
Post subject:	Ummm..
Quote: True :What will seep to crank case is consistent Depending upon wear (or worse, the fuel pump diaphragm ruptures....once it's in the oil engine wear increases.... or on the other side, if the rings are worn, oil in the chamber can increase knock... Quote: But how Conventional and synthetic react is different Correct... oddly I was able to pass a DEQ emissions tailpipe test in my state by switching from conventional 10W30 to synthetic... because of it's combustion properties...but...it leaked faster through the seals and past the compromised piston rings than conventional oil... (switching from Mobil conventional 10W30 to synthetic Mobil 1 on a 5.2L magnum engine)....

Author:	Mr.6 [ Sun Apr 30, 2017 4:56 am ]
Post subject:
The good and bad what you experienced , I'd like to know if you also used same weight 10w30 in Syn. as you did say the conventional was 10w30 Mobil one comes in so many weights . I'm curious how the Mobil one 10 W 40 performs The Battle between conventional and Syn. is a long one but for me the question seems answered in the winter during sub zero I get in turn the key & start that cold motor . The motor is ready but I still have let the rest of car warm up a bit . Still good old Dino oil , particular for the do it yourself oil changer , a 5 qt jug is $11 low cost filter $3 fresh oil ever 3 month for about $60 per year, compared to two per year with Syn. or one change per year with the Annual Mobil one . Like the old saying - If it ain't broke don't fix it - So even I'm torn to this day, I've had many oldish trucks & cars on the cheap & some times I resist the temptation and just use conventional . It's generally a final decision once I go Syn. I stay the course .

Author:	Chuck [ Mon May 01, 2017 5:37 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: The 1806 has a built in standpipe to keep oil in the filter. It's an alternative to the pumps that didn't have one. Also doesn't have the check valve in it like the mopar pipes did to help with flow. I just checked with my Wix dealer after reading this and found that the 51515 has the anti-drainback valve, as does the 51806. The 51806 application list says "farm vehicles". The other differences were so minor that I can't even figure out why they bothered to make a different filter. I couldn't find out anything about a standpipe. There is a slight difference in the relief valve pressure, but not much. We couldn't figure out what would be different for a farm vehicle. The 51806 was three times the price! What am I missing?

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Mon May 01, 2017 7:22 pm ]
Post subject:
51806 has a built-in standpipe to keep the filter full of oil in base-down applications (such as ours). You can read about it if you dig deep enough in the literature, or you can see it with your eyes if you look into the filter's central hole. Other than that, 51806 and 51515 are practically the same. The ultra-super-premium filter from a filtration and longevity standpoint is a synthetic-media item such as Wix 51515XP or Fleetgard LF3487, but it has no standpipe.

Author:	Chuck [ Mon May 01, 2017 8:54 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: 51806 has a built-in standpipe to keep the filter full of oil in base-down applications (such as ours). You can read about it if you dig deep enough in the literature, or you can see it with your eyes if you look into the filter's central hole. Other than that, 51806 and 51515 are practically the same. The ultra-super-premium filter from a filtration and longevity standpoint is a synthetic-media item such as Wix 51515XP or Fleetgard LF3487, but it has no standpipe. Thanks Dan! It amazes me how you come up with this stuff! Sounds like you would use the 51806 if your oil pump did not have the standpipe. I know mine do but I have seen many that don't.

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Author:	Mr.6 [ Thu May 04, 2017 6:14 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks Dan , my oil filter is up side down so those wall-mart filters are most likely not a good choice Only filters with a stand pipe would be a very big thing Update : 5 /8/17 I will change oil filter from wall-mart I notice some times that typical no oil sound equal to a fresh unprimed oil filter at startup .