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Help Me Build a Drag Race 225
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35089
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Author:  MPGslant6 [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 1:07 am ]
Post subject: 

RESEARCH RESEARCH FISH CARBURETOR... at one time i ran across a forum dino-testing fish verses Holley carb ON A BUILT V-8.. .. i wish i would have saved that forum.. .. oh well.. .. lol.... a fish carb needs no choke.. the fuel is sprayed/injected through the butterfly valve stem on the (top side) of the butterfly valve producing a quick start on a cold motor and MASUVE bottom end Torque...say goodbye to carter/holley and webber... do your home work on FISH.. search search
http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=Cs ... =null#t=55

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 4:32 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
hi bobw
i think your car is awesome.. the first thing you need to do is Nail down your traction.. the slant-6 is all about Torque Torque Torque .. forget about RPM , RPM is your weak point, so the easy way to get down the track is to build your engine to produce Massive amounts of low end Torque to launch your skinny little chassis Luck
The HAMB rules have strict limits on tires. They must be a bias ply street tire. So a car like that will just blow the tires off the car, if you build too much torque.

Also there has been discussion on the site, about the Fish carb. The search function is your friend.

Author:  adiffrentcity [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 9:07 am ]
Post subject: 

Personally I don't think it will serve bob well to have another learning curve to contend with in the form of unfamiliar carbs. I however am intrigued and would like to learn more about the theory behind and operation of fish carburetors. The search I did turned up lots of info including the new prouction run, but I can't figure out how/why they work.
Please humor me and start a new thread to discuss them after searching to make sure there hasn't already been one.


BOB how's it coming?

edit: wow I should have refreshed before the new thread rant..

Author:  MPGslant6 [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:05 am ]
Post subject: 

The HAMB rules have strict limits on tires. They must be a bias ply street tire. So a car like that will just blow the tires off the car, if you build too much torque.

Also there has been discussion on the site, about the Fish carb. The search function is your friend.[/quote]

thankyou Charrlie_S :)
yea: now that i think about it *the fish dino test discussion* may have been on this this site.. i agree: Torque is useless without traction. so all money invested in the clutch is money well spent. i don`t know much about tire restrictions but i do know a larger wheel=larger contact patch but a large heavy wheel=power loss, aluminum/magnesium is lighter then rubber... so tall rims with less rubber will help, but it still comes down to the clutch/weight transfer/and traction.. a4link would be nice if allowed, however back in the 60s a guy was running a old heavy dodge sweptline PU that was blowing everything away and hooking up with his front wheels in the air. (go to dodge sweptline forum) his trick was to clamp extra feaf springs to the front half of his springs and cutting some of the leafs out of the rear so it acted like a flexible swing arm on a motorcycle. he also filled his tailgate with concrete and opend the tailgate before every run... lol .. .. what can you say?? .. it worked.. hahahah . his truck became quite famous in the 60s.. . he worked in CA as a radio DJ and traveled the drag race circlet blowing everything away in his class... he also cut a big hole in the front half of the PU bed to brake the aerodynamics suction allowing him to to brake the speed barrier pushing his truck over the top .. he took the class championship in a truck that looked like a Brick... . if you go to the ((dodge sweeptline forum)) you can read all about it . . . TRUE HISTORY :)

Author:  MPGslant6 [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:26 am ]
Post subject: 

i found it
THE FLYING BARN DOOR
http://www.sweptline.com/hist/spectrucks.html

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sun Nov 22, 2009 1:34 pm ]
Post subject: 

MPGslant6
This thread is kinda getting off topic. Lets try to keep it on track. No problem posting the race trivia in the "Social Corner".

Author:  bobw [ Tue Feb 02, 2010 2:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Bearings

Help!!! I just had a cast crankshaft turned and the shop is saying they can't find bearings for it. I had my friend who owns an auto parts store check and he found Fereral Mogul numbers but the computer says "not available". What is a good source for rod bearings and main bearings for a 1977 cast crankshaft engine?

Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:13 pm ]
Post subject: 

i have seen them on ebay

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Tue Feb 02, 2010 4:00 pm ]
Post subject: 

What under size do you need?
Rock auto has them listed. CLEVITE/PERFECT CIRCLE Part # CB1214AL
WWW.ROCKAUTO.COM

Author:  bobw [ Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:33 pm ]
Post subject:  Maximum amount the block can be decked?

Thanks for the help. The crankshaft grinder got confused and mixed my crank up with a 1940 Plymouth flathead crank. No wonder they were having trouble finding bearings. I have found several sources.

Another question...What is the maximum the block deck can be cut? I see that several people talk about .100". Is it risky to go more? I'm trying for maximum compression with stock pistons.

Author:  ceej [ Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:53 pm ]
Post subject: 

It could be. My BH is decked .125"

CJ

Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:20 pm ]
Post subject: 

my 11.4/1 comp motor had the block cut .140ths.just do the math so you don`t get more than you need. :wink:

Author:  madmax/6 [ Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:12 pm ]
Post subject: 

I have been running 10.7 with stock rods and pistons.think I have around .100 off the head and .80 off the block.Ya gotta do the math.Mark

Author:  bobw [ Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:58 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks for the guidance on decking the block. My interest is structural. I will do the math regarding compression ratio before cutting the block and/or head.
Currently doing oiling system mods ala Doc's article. Should have the head with new guides by this weekend. Then I'll cc the combustion chambers. I know how far the pistons were down in the cylinders. THe head will go to another shop for installation of the large valves and some pocket porting just below the seats. I'll do the rest of the porting, again, based on Doc's articles.
Gonna have Oregon Cams do a regrind of the original cam. I need to talk to them about my combination., once I get the compression ratio established.

Author:  1974duster kev [ Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:14 pm ]
Post subject: 

im with charrlie on the too much torque issue why not build starting with high compression a good head and a relatively big cam. I may not be running a rail but i know in my duster which is alot heavier even with a pretty big cam 238dur @.50 510 lift im blowing the tires off even with a moderate punch with a 4spd stick and im running 255's r15s out back i also am running the 4spd od tranny. I was just thinking why not aim a little higher in the rpm range for power because their might be a chance of getting off the line without smoking everyone out. A little rump at idle never hurt anybody i vote consider or at least take a look at a bigger cam. sweet project though i would love to do something like what your doing i also would like to try a 6 1bbl carb setup now im just dreaming.

Kev

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