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| Still screwing around with the Holley 390 https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36652 |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:08 pm ] |
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Thanks DI, The fellow that thought he had a stiffer MOPAR spring did not after checking. So to Plan B; after market GM springs to be ordered tomorrow morning. I just want to get this car straightened out now, as the new house project is about to kick off in the next few weeks. I just won't have time to be messing with internal combustion engines for a while. |
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| Author: | bigslant6fan [ Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | - |
I sell a spring kit for mopar dists. for $25+$3 shipping |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | MOPAR Distributor Spring kit |
bigslant6fan, Quote:
I sell a spring kit for mopar dists. for $25+$3 shipping
Are these MOPAR springs? or like MOPAR springs?How many primary springs come in the kit and how many secondary with the long loop? Do you have a picture? |
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| Author: | bigslant6fan [ Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | - |
aftermarket,of the correct dimensions (0.250 dia.-0.750 lenth)spring loops on center like stock.8 primary springs total, of 4 different rates. No secordary springs included.PM with email for pics. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Aug 16, 2009 10:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | MOPAR Distributor Spring kit |
Quote: aftermarket,of the correct dimensions (0.250 dia.-0.750 lenth)spring loops on center like stock.8 primary springs total, of 4 different rates. No secordary springs included.PM with email for pics.
Emails and PM's sent........  This is great! Need a name and address to send money to..... I would like to see some pictures! Can you send them to my email? I can post them off my link. Thanks!
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| Author: | slantscamp [ Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
hey guys. im not trying to hijack this thread, but i am having a lot of the same problems. i am running the 925 b spring kit and after reading this i think this is part of my problem. i can only get my car idling around 1000 rpm. are these springs what could be causing havoc with my idle circuit. i was thinking of getting the gm ones. which spring is the primary? sorry for the dumb questions. im still learning. thanks! -aaron- |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Aug 24, 2009 10:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | MOPAR Spring Kit from bigslant6fan |
slantscamp, What cam do you have in your engine.....???? That will determine part of the story, the light springs, vacuum leaks the vacuum pod kicking in too early will causing a higher idle. What is the vacuum POD adjusted? How many turns out from all the way in? Use the bigslant6fan MOPAR Spring kit. It is very nice...I would recommend it over anything else. The 925 springs come on all at once since they are so light. You got to get your idle below a 1000 rpm so they pull the weights back in. Your mechanical advance is coming on too quick and is also contributing to the higher idle especially if you have a vacuum leak.....it just makes it worse. For normal driving you need to use the stiff long looped secondary spring. You only change the primary spring for a controlled mechanical advance. |
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| Author: | slantscamp [ Mon Aug 24, 2009 12:05 pm ] |
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thanks for the reply ted. my cam is a comp cams 252 duration .435 lift and lobe speration is 110 degrees. i have the valves adjusted at .010 int. and .012 exh. as per their instructions. this is all new to me. this is my first build. i didnt know about the vacuum canister turns. i will have to check that. is there a ballpark starting point? and how do i know which spring is the primary and which is the secondary? or does it matter. im a little confused on this. right now im running 10 degrees advance and im pretty sure i have ruled out a vacuum leak. but my idle gets real wierd under 1000 rpm. thanks again. -aaron- |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Aaron, Try running the exhaust lash at .020 and it should settle down. 3 to 4 turns out should keep it out of the way at 750 rpm or so. I run 3 turns. It doesn't matter which post is which. You just need a heavy secondary spring to stop the advance at 20 degrees especially on long slot 15R governors and a medium primary spring so it doesn't prematurely advance. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
slantscamp: Quote: hey guys. im not trying to hijack this thread
Think nothing of it. I have been messing with my idle since I purchased the car in March of 2008. This recurve project has been an interesting project. As promised an update: The new orange box came today, and it did not solve the starting problem. Tests show the coil was borderline suspect, so now I'm awaiting the arrival of a new MSD Blaster 2 coil with higher rated ballast resistor. |
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| Author: | slantscamp [ Tue Aug 25, 2009 9:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
well yesterday i changed the springs out in my distributor. i put the heave original back in, and a silver one from the gm spring kit. i still couldnt get the car to idle. i thought the springs may be opening up to quickly. but anyways, so my buddy had an old 390 on the shelf, so we threw it on just to see if maybe it was my carb. once we got it on there i fired it up and with a little adjusting of the idle mixture screws i had it idling at 800 rpm in N and about 650-700 in gear. so something is clogged on the brand new 390 i bought. so he sold me the old one for 40 bucks and im going to put new gaskets in it. and on the way how i noticed that it drives better. it seemed like with those old springs, when the transmission kicked down the timing just went crazy and it wasnt very drivable. the car would just rev to the moon and then when you let off it would drop back down. now it acts like a street car, pulls nice and sounds a lot better. im thinking either something was clogged in the metering block or the body of the other carb. maybe if you can find another metering block you can try to eliminate something, i know there has to be another solution other than putting a different carb on. maybe disassemble it and hot tank it. was you carb new? |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
One additional up-date. I installed the GM "Silver Spring" per Aggressive Ted turned the engine over and she eagerly fired right up. The car was tooth off after replacing the distributor causing me to perform some fiddling around resulting in mashing or pinching the two wires from the pick-up under the clamp-down. After a few tooth adjustments left & right, and loosing track of which way I was turning for the adjustment the car would not start, spit, cough, or fart when cranking it over. I tested the resistance of the pick-up, found it to be off spec... Long story short, I replaced pick-up, orange box, and upgraded to a MDS Blaster 2 coil with 0.8 ohm ballast resistor because the car would not start, and all those items were showing off speck readings. Today after several attempts to retime the distributor by observing the valve action of #1, she sprang to life. Initial timing is much steadier at 10 BTDC, no flutter. This has enabled turning in the idle screws a turn or more, and a bit higher vacuum reading at idle. I'm ordering the spring kit that bigslant6fan has for sale, just to get the proper fitting MOPAR spring. I can't say definitively if the engine is making more torque at lower rpm or not, but it seems to be a bit more stout off the line. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Fri Aug 28, 2009 1:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Excellent news! Glad you stuck with it.... I ordered the MOPAR "bigslant6fan" spring kit this week and am anxiously waiting. |
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