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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:22 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:20 am
Posts: 292
Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model: '64 Valiant Convertible
From the photo, it appears that the plastic piece is broken, and missing some of the linkage, rendering your accelerator pump inoperative.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:30 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: salem oregon
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oh wow, good eye neil. i just checked my holley (simliar to his) and he is infact missing a j shaped rod and a coughter pin. that would explain the no gas. i bet if you fixed that you wouldn't have any problems.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:35 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model: '64 Valiant Convertible
[url]Image[/url]


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:37 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Pomona C.A.
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Hold the phone up to it, so i can see it...
If you look down the carb, and activate the accelerator pump, does it squirt fuel? Fresh or reasonably fresh, viable fuel. What is the position of the choke flap?

When you pull a plug wire, and create a reasonable gap, and crank the motor, do you have a consistent spark?

Next, I'd use a timing light to rule out a slipped timing chain, and inspect the distributor for a loose bolt.

Then I'd want to look at the spark plugs if not any firing or back firing.
NO FUEL IS SQUIRTING!

if no fuel is squirting. pull the fuel line off the carb. grab a small cup or something(so gas doesnt go everywhere), have someone crank the motor for you and see if it squirts fuel. if it doesnt then your fuel pump is most likely bad. if it does then id say your line is either clogged, the float needs to be adjusted, or the accelerator pump just isnt working.
Yea the first time I checked and unscrewed the fuel line from the Carb it was under pressure fuel just squirt out. so I'm assuming the pump works.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:44 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Pomona C.A.
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[url]Image[/url]
Yea I mentioned earlier that its been running like that for 3 mths w/ a broken acceleration pump, but on the out position; stuck. Image

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:51 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model: '64 Valiant Convertible
When stone cold, if you depress the accelerator to the floor, the choke flap should snap shut, and fuel should squirt. I usually do it twice to get enough fuel into the manifold.
(in your case, you should manually grab the broken pump linkage, and get a couple squirts.) Then when it starts, it is on fast idle circuit. If you touch the peddle at all, it drops down the fast idle cam to a lower idle.

Somewhere on this site, Doug has some really good adjustment instructions.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:09 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Pomona C.A.
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When stone cold, if you depress the accelerator to the floor, the choke flap should snap shut, and fuel should squirt. I usually do it twice to get enough fuel into the manifold.
(in your case, you should manually grab the broken pump linkage, and get a couple squirts.) Then when it starts, it is on fast idle circuit. If you touch the peddle at all, it drops down the fast idle cam to a lower idle.

Somewhere on this site, Doug has some really good adjustment instructions.
Do. You think that is the reason for it cutting off after acouple seconds of being on?

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68 225 Dart "life under the hood, is the life for me" -By Me
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 4:30 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

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Location: Eureka, Nevada
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I think I had that problem 20 years ago, and it was a bad coil.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 5:26 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Posts: 292
Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model: '64 Valiant Convertible
I think if it is stone cold, and the choke plate is closed, when it starts, and the idle speed is high, if you touch the throttle, you may be causing the choke plate to open, leaning out the mixture, and causing it to die.
If it dies, press the peddle to the floor again to reset the choke (in a fully functioning carb, this would also squirt more fuel to richen the mixture), and try it again.
The cold weather may also be contributing to your cold start issues, but really, you do need an accelerator pump that functions. Every time you leave a stop light, are you stumbling away from a stop?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:49 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Pomona C.A.
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I think if it is stone cold, and the choke plate is closed, when it starts, and the idle speed is high, if you touch the throttle, you may be causing the choke plate to open, leaning out the mixture, and causing it to die.
If it dies, press the peddle to the floor again to reset the choke (in a fully functioning carb, this would also squirt more fuel to richen the mixture), and try it again.
The cold weather may also be contributing to your cold start issues, but really, you do need an accelerator pump that functions. Every time you leave a stop light, are you stumbling away from a stop?
No it actually took off pretty good. Only when I floor it. It dies off.

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68 225 Dart "life under the hood, is the life for me" -By Me
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 7:11 pm 
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Supercharged
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Posts: 13276
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Before you spend much more time trying to diagnose this, you need to rebuild your carburetor and fix the known problem of the accelerator pump. While rebuilding the carb, make sure the float is set correctly and the choke is set correctly.

Do the carb rebuild, adjust your valve lash, and then tell us how it turns out.

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 Post subject: emergency please help!
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:43 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Oslo, Norway
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Hi humble slt6 soldier. Hope I didn't offend you with my joke. 8) Only a small general remark on valve adjustment; if valves are adjusted too tight so they don't close properly, you may actually experience exactly the same problem. Engine starts, then just die out.. Olaf

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:45 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Pomona C.A.
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Before you spend much more time trying to diagnose this, you need to rebuild your carburetor and fix the known problem of the accelerator pump. While rebuilding the carb, make sure the float is set correctly and the choke is set correctly.

Do the carb rebuild, adjust your valve lash, and then tell us how it turns out.
10 - 4 will do. What is the name of the broken piece I have there? it is not include in rebuilt kit.

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68 225 Dart "life under the hood, is the life for me" -By Me
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:51 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2009 6:40 pm
Posts: 93
Location: Pomona C.A.
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Quote:
Hi humble slt6 soldier. Hope I didn't offend you with my joke. 8) Only a small general remark on valve adjustment; if valves are adjusted too tight so they don't close properly, you may actually experience exactly the same problem. Engine starts, then just die out.. Olaf
No, I actually Thought it was funny. And my valves are up to specs that was given to me here at slt6forums.

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68 225 Dart "life under the hood, is the life for me" -By Me
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:42 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13276
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
The broken piece is the accelerator pump cam. You are also missing the accelerator pump linkage rod that goes from the throttle to the cam. You probably won't get these pieces in your standard rebuild kit and will need to source them from a junkyard, a swap meet, eBay, a carb store, or someone on the board.

See the diagrams on this page.

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