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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:24 pm 
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Ack. Some days it's not worth chewing thru the restraints to get out of bed.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 8:12 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 6:59 am
Posts: 17
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God save you all if you don't learn to check things out for yourself. I know in most instances he really does mean well.
Quote:
Modern high-quality aftermarket head gaskets typically require no retorquing because their compressibility is limited and uniform, and they're so labeled. Any gasket that doesn't specifically state "No Retorquing" on its package or instruction sheet, however, must receive this extra step. Run the engine up to normal operating temperature, let it cool down, then tighten the bolts to specs again. It's a good idea to do this a third time after 500 miles or so.
http://www.valvedirectory.com/valve_04122006.html

Three times -- that's a periodic schedule, Dan.


Quote:
The head does not need to be retorqued periodically -- that is yet another bit of spurious misinformation by an individual who is not welcome on this board, has already been banned once, and will shortly be banned again. Pay attention to the good advice you're getting from knowledgeable people who actually own slant-6s, and disregard the babble and handwaving from those who seek only to stir up ѕhit.
Quote:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic697.htm

Some head gaskets remain resilient and retain torque better than others, so they do not require retorquing. Others, though, can lose as much as 50 to 60% of their original torque after only 100 hours of service!

...
Finally, if a head gasket is the type that requires retorquing, run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature (usually 10 to 15 minutes), then shut it off. Retighten each head bolt in the same sequence as before while the engine is still warm. If the engine has an aluminum cylinder head or block, however, wait to retorque the head bolts until the engine has cooled back down to room temperature.

On some applications with retorque style head gaskets, it may be necessary to retorque the head a third time after a specified time or mileage interval due to the design of the engine. Follow the vehicle or gasket manufacturer's recommendations.
http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/members/gall ... how&id=369

Quote:

http://www.supras.org.nz/techinfo/bhg.htm

What can I do to prevent another BHG?

If the BHG repair is done correctly the first time, you should never have further problems with it. An engine that BHGs once is not any more likely to BHG in the future unless it has been damaged in some way (eg warped head or block). Continue BHGs are a sign of other significant problems with the engine.

Once the BHG repair is complete, there are a couple of good rules to follow to ensure that the gasket seals correctly:

For the first 1000Kms after the repair:

Use little or preferably no anti-freeze in the cooling system.
Drive the vehicle very gently. A good rule to follow is that if you see your boost gauge going over the zero point you need to back off.
After 1000Kms:

Retorque the engine as per the article mentioned previously. For a stock gasket you should be retorquing the head to 70-75 lbs-ft. The procedure should be carried out with the engine stone cold, or as close as possible to it.
Drain and refill the cooling system, adding anti-freeze in the usual quantities.
Preferably do an oil and oil filter change to ensure that any impurities such as gasket debris are removed from the oil system.
And if you're really in love with your engine:

Retorque again after a few months to ensure all slack has been taken up on the head gasket.

Lots of opinions out there... The idea is to check it out for yourself.


Last edited by KLJohnson on Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:14 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
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Periodic kinda implies routinely like in every oil change or at every major maintenance function every 30k miles etc - once before assembly, once after warm up and once after 500 miles most would not refer to as periodic.
That's not really periodic, that's more of a break in procedure for a new engine. Notice you are the one that used the term periodic and not the article Kevin?

Semantics aside, just trying to save the OP from thinking his gasket blew because he forgot to re-torque it routinely. Was it re-torqued at least once after it was driven initially? That MAY explain why it randomly blew, but don't think that it needs routine torquing.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:55 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13281
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
For the record, since I started working on slants about 15 years ago, I have always used Felpro gaskets. I have never retorqued a head gasket, even on the occasions when I cheaped out and reused the head gasket. I have never ever had a head gasket blow or leak on me, then again, I have never really built a performance motor.

Whalemaster- if you haven't sourced a valve spring tool yet, I have a new valve spring compressor I will loan you for the cost of shipping from WA to CA. Send me a PM if you are interested. You might want to check at your local Autozone to see if they will loan you one.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:08 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 4:26 pm
Posts: 1237
Location: CBS Newfoundland Canada
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i have to put my 2cents in on this re-torque, i have built 4 complete race engines from 9/1 to 11.4/1 compo ratio, using fel-pro blue gaskets and never re-torque between tear downs, i ran my engines for 2 seasons then i would put fresh rings and bearings.i have never had any trouble untill i tried supercharging the thing and most of the trouble i had was with running lean and burning the fire ring out. on some of my mild builds i knew i was going to disassemble to check the engine after some mile have been put on it i even soaked the head gasket with rust-check so it wouldn`t stick so i would be able to reuse it with no problems. :!:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:36 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
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Thanks Reed - not really sure I need to check the valves.
Doing the leak down test seemed to show that #3 was the only one that had anything close to a leak and after I tapped on them and retested it did not do any leaking at all.

Now to the head retorqueing thing - I torqued initially - then at around 500 miles+ when I changed out the breakin oil I rechecked/torqued and found not a single one loose. Figured I was done at that point.

I'm still not sure as to why the #6 blew like it did other than maybe I had the valves out of adjustment for too long at some point. There was a few months that I really couldn't do anything to the rig - back problems etc., so it may have been that. Also, I found a couple of the stud bolts on the intake/exhaust that were loose at the time.

Dan

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:37 am 
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Quote:
Now to the head retorqueing thing - I torqued initially - then at around 500 miles+ when I changed out the breakin oil I rechecked/torqued and found not a single one loose. Figured I was done at that point.
Yup, you were. Your retorque procedure was just fine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:13 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:50 pm
Posts: 96
Location: Benton City Wa.
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50 bucks eh? I would get the good gaskets. Been there am there.
I would lap with lapping compound valves by hand. Iwould use the new seals that come with gasket set. The valves bearing different colors were caused by your carb. Fix or replace carb right away as you can.

Put it together and enjoy one fine speciman of a used engine. Engine is good to go for another 100,000 lest you over-rev it and throw a rod out the block. G-one


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:24 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
gl - the leakdown test showed no leaking
and it has not burned one drop of oil that i could see


however - the POS carb - has been a royal pain for me since day one
it seemed that no matter how "small" the jets were or how i tried to set it - even had so called experts adjust it - it never seemed to run right

i think the last ones in there are in the 55 range?? been awhile since it was last apart

working on getting something else already
hoping I can get something through S6Dan

just have to do the $$$$$ shuffle once more
hahahahahah - I constantly - rob Peter to pay Paul and to hell with Mary!

dan

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:40 pm 
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Quote:
Ack. Some days it's not worth chewing thru the restraints to get out of bed.
Dan: you win Quote of the Week. .....lemme wipe up a lil of that drool for you.....

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