i also never understood why when i took the 4bbl off she was running $#!+ but running, put the 2bbl nothing just crank and crank and crank and crank nothing, my one buddy suggested that with the larger carb it could be dumping enough air/fuel in to compensate for the timing issue, i think he might have been right, damn this is frustratin !!

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Yep, back to basics.

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Joshua

air fuel spark timing

got air flow check

getting plenty of fuel check

tested and verified spark check

timing........ timing is a different story

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

ok so i changed the pump to the one that was on the motor, still pulses so i guess its normal, i have the fuel line mod i just used the crappy 30R7 hose cause it was all i could afford at the time.

heres a pic of all the plugs really weird that #5 is the only sorta non-fouled one of the bunch



heres an overall shot of the motor



now when i cranked the motor over doing a spark check at the coil, got a pretty blue/white spark.....when i grabbed a plug (in this case #1) and put a brand new gapped at .035 RV17YC i barely got any spark from the end of the plug to a known chassis ground, is it because the timing/phase of the dizzy is out ??? I am going to try new plugs and see if it helps any.

also in the cap it looks like it has been arching (lil black dots on the copper pieces inside the cap) can that also lead to a no start condidtion ??

the wires are also brand new autozone pieces, not the greatest but the discount pulled apart last time i tried taking them off, garbage,

-Mike[/img]

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Oh boy Mike, you’re having a swell time with this ain’t yeah? We have all been there once, maybe twice. LOL

No mater what you have the engine timed at, a plug held by hand, will spark to ground provided the secondary coil is pumping out enough voltage. Timing becomes important when all the plugs are installed in the head, and must fire precisely at the correct moment to light of the cylinder full of compressed air & fuel… But, you know that, sorry about bayoneting the dead here…

Those plugs are defiantly showing a rich condition, and you are correct to replace them with fresh ones. Hopefully they are getting adequate voltage to fire them removing one possible variable.

Second step is to recheck static timing. But, before you do this again, did you have the distributor’s mechanical advance apart? Reason I ask is; it’s one of my; “I have been thereâ€￾, moments.

During a distributor re-curve project, you can read all about it in a sticky, I reinstalled the part that the rotor button attaches to, that is, the thing with the slots that limit weight travel, 180 degrees from where it was when I took it apart. I had that thing apart about ten to fifteen times before this unseen screw-up, and put it together correctly each time previously.

I checked, and rechecked the static timing about a million times during a period of a week, replace electronic spark control, coil, and pick-up until it sunk in what was wrong.

What inverting of that one part did was; point the rotor button 180 degrees in the wrong direction, but was undetectable because I knew damn well that distributor was ok. Each time I would line up #1 on compression everything looked good to go, but trying to start the engine it acted as if it was 180 out with spit back, fire shooting out of the carburetor, and fuel fouled plugs. Hey it was a real dumb guy moment that I can’t blame on anyone, also one of about 10,000 of a life time, but who is counting… LOL

Josh is correct, go back to basics. Check your primary (low voltage side) coil’s resistance with a VOM, That would be the resistance or ohms between the little bolts. It should be in the 0.75 to 0.81ohm range on a stock coil.

Secondary side (high voltage) is checked between one of the little bolts and the socket feeding the distributor. That should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms on a stock or OEM coil. Any readings much different than these, your coil is not good.

Secondly, check the resistance of the pick-up coil that reads the recluctor in the distributor. Unplug the two wire connection feeding it, stick the VOM’s (set on ohms), probes to the wires coming from the distributor at that connection, and see what it is. A good pick-up should be in the 150 to 300 ohm range. Someone correct me on this if I have remembered incorrectly the resistance.

Check to see if you are getting 5 to 7 volts from the low voltage side of the ceramic resistor with the ignition key in the run position.

Now that carburetor, make sure the base is flat using a straight edge, so it will seat into the new gasket you will be using, without any vacuum leaks when you torque it down. Hopefully its floats are still in adjustment, and your fuel filter is not plugged.

Check the default idle enrichment screw setting for your carburetor listed in the carburetor sticky section, and set it to that

With every item listed above up to speck, that baby should fire right up.

Oh yeah one more thing; don’t ask why I thought of this, but make sure you have some gas in your tank...

Good luck.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

i will get on checking the resitances stat,

no the dizzy is a reman went from box to motor, no futtz with,

full tank of gas,

new champ RV17YC (#25's) installed and gapped at .035

i have taken the plug wires around the dizzy 1 full (all 6 spots) turn and at each change i have the wife crank the car and i move the dizzy back and forth, she just won't fire, I am at the wall with this motor, i am ready to pull it tear the covers off and see WTF is going on internally. I have also cranked the motor over with the dizzy cap off just to make sure the rotor was spinning oh i took the coil off and it met my concrete garage floor several times, i added my MSD blaster 2 coil (another freebie from my buddy, thank you phil !!)

well i got a new piece of wood 1"X8"X48" gonna make a new spacer put the fixed 4bbl on reset everything AGAIN and she if i can get something happening, btw just to verify both intake/exhaust valves are closed when #1 piston is TDC yes ??

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Yes! Have you verified that the piston is in fact at the top of it's stroke when the TDC mark lines up? Sometimes the outer ring on the Harmonic Balancer can slip. Find TDC and verify the mark on the balancer!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

o i was getting really weird readings at the coil, but the resistor is retarded hot and got 6.15 volt from the side in the pic and the other side is reading only .17volts,



i also noticed the MSD coild started getting warm, like its barely warm, but its definitely warmer than the rest of the car and i roughly the same readings, so i am assuming a very toasty resistor is sign of a bad resistor, now

1.)can it be either bypassed

2.) or just replace ??

what would cause a resistor to get so damn hot ??

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

1. Yes, you can bypass it if you run a 3 ohm coil. You can get the stock style coil or HEI style in 3 ohms.

2. Internal crack or oxidation......they fatigue over time and burn out.

I am running a 60,000 volt HEI style at the moment and my plugs used to run a light beige......now they are bright white. It's a Pertronix part# 60130.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Volare4life: Yup normal.
Those resistors will heat up. After all they are resistors stepping down the voltage. You may have noticed that a wall switch light dimmer gets warm as well, same thing, just a resistance coil in there.

Make sure that you have your resistor mounted before using it, the metal it is attached to acts as a heat sink to help pull away the waste heat generated.

Coil same thing, only not as much resistance, it to will warm up when power is applied.

When you read the voltage at the resistor’s terminals did you have one probe of VOM to ground, and the other to one of the spades while both wiree were connected to the resistor?

One side should read 12+/- V which would be the feed from ignition & battery, other spade runs power over to the coil should read around 5-7 V.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

well 2bbl is going back on.....
ballast resistor is getting swapped for new $4 one......
timing is getting reset to #1TDC rotor on #1 spot..........
we will soon see if it works boys, fingers crossed and sayin prayers,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

ok so i couldn't resist and made a 4bbl 1" oak spacer, and bolted the eddy carb on, tried starting it nope back fired through intake and caught on fire AGAIN,nothing major put it out with a huff and puff. then i was screw it lets flip the wires 180deg, thing fired right up but i have worries, and i it idles fine, smooth as glass, hammer the throttle (in park) booof pops back through the intake, yet returns back to idle like nothing happened. but and this is a bit scary it felt like a rod was flopping around in there like really super rough vibration while it was coming back down to idle, now maybe it just feels that way because i burned the rubber outta my old mounts and filled them with poly-urethane (all 3) but still , now when it goes in gear instant stall.....no uh geeez quick try to save it, nope just instant death !!!!, any one any clues ??

gonna try with 2bbl carb tomorrow, also gonna pull cap to verifythe rotor is in the right position in relation to the cap,

but still SHE LIVES (again hahaha)

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

What is your base timing?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

12degrees Before TDC, well thats the best i can guess at my timing tab goes to like 10 then a hash mark and then the edge both ways so i set it to just the edge of the timing tab with a inductive timing light (the one that hooks to the batt and #1 plug wire) with the vaccuum advance disconnected from the carb, set base idle in park to 1000, but once everything warmed up it decided to settle itself at 1500rpm wtf ?? anyway in park at 1500rpm i set the timing to as stated above,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Back it off to 8 or so degrees.

Were you able to verify the mark on the balancer is in the right place?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing