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Pet dog, loyal pal. Kick dog, get bit!

Disney really hated Chevvies..........

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Beauty of a car! Would have been a shame to blow it up.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

well thanks Reed. I am surprized this photo posted as I am new to tjis forum and had never done this before. Or maybe I have you to thank for posting it for me. Yes its typical 78 Volare, nothing fancy but really to nice to set fire to. I should have been concentrating on local estate auctions as a friend just purchsed a 1992 Lexus SC400 like new for $3200.00 A 250 hp v-8 sports car, but there is something special about the slant six, and this is why I put so much into keeping Grannies car road worthy. Again my thanks to all who helped me get through this puzzle! And thanks Reed for posting my photo how ever you did it.
logansrun

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Pet dog, loyal pal. Kick dog, get bit!

I believe that is an original Octagenerian Edition.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I mentioned the ballast resistor is the 1st thing to check when I posted previously. I've been burned by them failing several times. It's the 1st thing I change when I have an odd driveability problem. You'll always want a spare on hand. On the factory dual ballast, there are 2 different resistances on the ballast, hence the term dual ballast resistor. The way it operates is that when cranking, the voltage is sent from the starter relay, then goes through the ballast to the ignition module. This gives the ignition coil about 10 volts during cranking. When you release the ignition and it goes to the run position, the voltage to the resistor switches to the run side of the ballast and the ignition coil gets about 8 volts to it instead of 10. It was supposed to make it easier to start when hot. Will it hurt anything to have it reversed? I don't really think so. It will cause the coil to overheat after few minutes of running and give you weak spark.

The other things you mentioned could also have some affect on the problem as you mentioned. I'm glad you got it going.

Joel

Thanks for the photo, LogansRun, a very nice car indeed. I am sure that your granny would have been pleased to know your efforts to make it run good!
Take good care of it, if you can keep it free from rust you have a car for as long as you want to, and keep following the forum!

Olaf

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Aspenized

Thanks Joel, thats good stuff to know. Good have been valve lash etc. I will keep an extra ballast resistor in the glove box.
Thanks Olaf. Granny has been gone for years. She was very particular of her Plymouth. It was the only new car she had ever owned. Paid cash for the balance when trading in an old dodge. The rear springs are a little weak, so the car sags a bit in the rear. May have to put some air shocks on unless you have a good idea for that. I feel the Volare is now good to drive to any part of the country in summer. Soon will park it for winter.

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Pet dog, loyal pal. Kick dog, get bit!

Swap-in a better (stiffer) set of leaf springs or add some "helper" leafs to get more spring rate and raise the rear a bit.
(Air shocks are not a solution for worn-out springs)
DD

Second Doc on the air shocks. You may be surprised to find that new springs from ESPO or another vender aren’t that expensive.

Give them a call if your application is not listed, I did and was very pleased when replacing the rear springs on my Dart.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Second wjajr on springs from ESPO. The new springs for my Aspen came with old-style cylindrical rubber bushings in the forward mount instead of the oval ones, all F/M/J-body rear springs from ESPO are delivered like that now.

They also have springs in different stiffness ratings, a 5 leaf spring as used on the wagons are widely used on the sedans and coupes.

Olaf

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Aspenized