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| Is there a distributor without a nylon gear? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46872 |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Sat Nov 05, 2011 6:15 pm ] |
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If you are unsure about your distributor gear just swap it for a new one. They are incredibly durable and should be the furthest thing from your mind. BTW what does MSD have to do with the distributor gear? The best gear you can get is the nylon one. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sat Nov 05, 2011 6:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | And... |
Quote: Now what I've encountered is aluminum shock housings for the bumpers and aluminum bracing for the hood & trunk lid. Haven't looked into the doors,
Shock housings wouldn't be aluminum, the cast bumper reinforcemenmt bracket is....You can shave all this weight by going to a 1973/1974 straight bumper brackets bolted to the bumper skin, just don't get hit in the front, it will be all over for the car.Your trunk and decklid reinforcements are aluminum, the OD tranny casing should be aluminum, the intake manifold should be aluminum, and that's it for light materials. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Aluminum Six [ Sat Nov 05, 2011 9:02 pm ] |
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Heh. That's a guy who thinks they're rare. Scarce they may be, but not $800 scarce. I bought 3 in one months time and I don't have $800 in all 3. Reminds me of my father. Always wanted what he paid for it or what it went for on eBay. Things depreciate and slant six motors only go to inline people. And just the block? Come off it man, I talked a kid, compared to me, down from $1500 to $300. They really all do think it's the same as an iron Slant made of aluminum. The head gasket and proper bolts are scarce and if you don't have the part of the main bearing that goes on the block you can't build it. Which reminds me, I need to start working on that .CAD file so I can cut a set & see how well it goes. |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 6:03 am ] |
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Quote: (I'm gonna build it with good old fashioned r12 a/c.)
Why?. That makes no sense to me. I have R-12 in stock, for cars that are still R-12 and just need a "spritz", once in a while, or OEM show cars. But can't see the reason for using it when building a new system, or doing a major repair. PS: I might still have a NAPA DG-404 steel distributer gear in stock. I bought it several years ago, and never used it. Send me a PM if you are interested. Have to check the price, but I think about $10.00 plus shipping. |
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| Author: | Aluminum Six [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:28 am ] |
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When did this become an obsolete Lincoln disscussion board? Alright. So the condenser, compressor & accumulator are where you would expect, but the accumulator/dryer & evaporator + blower are in the trunk. So it has freon lines that run along the drivers side outside of the x in the chassis from front to back. I was told the compressor seal nor the evaporator can handle the extra 150 or so PSI that comes with almost 6 pounds of freon in the system. & even if they're wrong it will go warm at idle, this was my experience with my 90 mustang, plus this works with vents in the headliner and clear tubes running from the trunk thru the rear deck into the roof. Non adjustable either, like a 1960's Kmart round bell doughnut shaped vent the size of a softball. Finiś |
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| Author: | Aluminum Six [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:38 am ] |
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BTW what does MSD have to do with the distributor gear? The best gear you can get is the nylon one? Msd may potentially offer a billet distributor and I have got a few Msd-al6 discharge boxes so besides not having a nylon gear I'll also have multiple spark discharge where I want it, from start to 3500 rpm. I'm building a mileage maker and more horsepower comes from more tourqe. I might even go against my first thought of using the aluminum 1 barrel intake for the aussie speed 2 barrel Hurricane. |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 11:45 am ] |
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MSD does not offer a distributor for the slant six. They barely offer anything for Mopars period. The factory distributor works great if you take some time and recurve it. The HEI conversion will do just as much for a stocker as the very overpriced MSD box will. Plus the $300 you saved could be put towards other things that need attention. As for the intake, ever considered the super six? They actually have a heat stove, which is better for cold weather driveability and mileage, the hurricane doesn't. |
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| Author: | Aluminum Six [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 12:18 pm ] |
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Yeah, I considered the super six electro weld but my determination is that the length of the runners would yield lower Rpm tourqe. As for the choke stove, well, I think they'll make a water heated floor one day. Otherwise I got the 2 x 1 offenhauser with heat option. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 12:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Er... |
Quote: I'm building a mileage maker and more horsepower comes from more torque.
The torque curve will determine some of the mileage as long as the rpms stay in the sweet spot onthe power band, but this is going to be a play not only on intake but your cam selection...the cam is only going to go 3 ways...low end torque, not much horsepower, high horsepower no low end torque, or an amicable trade between the two curves somewhere in the middle that hopefully won't comprimise the objective.The longer ram manifold will help lowend torque, but to make it "ram tune" it will need much higher RPMs than you will run on the highway with standard rear gears... -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Aluminum Six [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 1:49 pm ] |
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D To tell you the truth I don't know how low(high) the rear end is, history recorded them having a super low ratio, but the most I've counted the driveshaft spin per tire with chalk is 2.73 like almost 3 turns. I would hope to tune it to the lower to middle 500-2000 maybe 2300 rpm, because I'm not planning to wind it out in the streets. Nice & slow. |
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| Author: | exoJjL [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 3:23 pm ] |
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Quote: D
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... tio#325835To tell you the truth I don't know how low(high) the rear end is, And here: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36418 I seem to recall 2.73 being the lowest used in the 7-1/4 rear. |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 5:33 pm ] |
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Aluminumsix First don't consider this as bashing you, I am not, but it might come across that way. As for the distributer gear. The nylon gear works just fine. Remember there is very little load on the gear. Most other engine drive the oil pump, and the distributer with a common gear. The slant six, has two separet gears, one for the dist, and one for the oil pump. About the Air Conditioning system. Do you already have the trunk mounted system? If you do not, why would you want it. You are building for milage, but want to install an A/C system, that will hurt milage do to it being less efficent, and heavier? What design compressor, do you plan on using? What style condensor? Actually, why have A/C at all, if you are looking to maxamize milage? I can help you with your A/C, as I have about 50 years experiance, but it should probably be in another thread. |
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| Author: | Aluminum Six [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 6:23 pm ] |
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No bashing felt. I just don't know what it is but I don't like it. Like the fiber cam gear on something I saw. The ac unit is a factory LINCOLN unit installed in 1956 and has nothing to do with my Plymouth duster, someone asked why I would want to use r12 freon after rebuilding an ac unit after I quoted some cars I own that still have bias ply nylon tires because another member was bashing another member about using them. Or something. Liners and inner tubes and all. Before replying please understand I have a 1956 Lincoln premiere with the trunk mounted A/C. I am building a 76 feather duster. It had ac, when it had a motor. |
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| Author: | CNC-Dude [ Sun Nov 06, 2011 11:18 pm ] |
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Since your goal is to ultimately build a car as light as possible, have you considered swapping to a T5 tranny. Not only will you lose quite a few pounds, you will gain the advantage of a really low first gear to offset your 2.73 rear gear and also have an OD 5th gear to further drop the RPM at cruising speeds. Just a thought.... |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:36 am ] |
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Quote: No bashing felt.
Sorry about the A/C part. I must have misread something. I thought that was on the Duster. I do agree on keeping the Lincoln unit R-12. Just hope you don't have to recharge it.
I just don't know what it is but I don't like it. Like the fiber cam gear on something I saw. The ac unit is a factory LINCOLN unit installed in 1956 and has nothing to do with my Plymouth duster, someone asked why I would want to use r12 freon after rebuilding an ac unit after I quoted some cars I own that still have bias ply nylon tires because another member was bashing another member about using them. Or something. Liners and inner tubes and all. Before replying please understand I have a 1956 Lincoln premiere with the trunk mounted A/C. I am building a 76 feather duster. It had ac, when it had a motor. |
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