Well coil, cap and rotors are new with only 100miles at the most from before the build. I've driven the car only once with the factory electronic ignition conversion. But it never stopped idling or progressivley ran worse. Could be valves but hard to adjust when it won't stay running

If the car passes all the electrical tests, loosen every valve adjustor by one full turn and see if it no longer wants to die on warmup.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

fuel pump seemed to be the culprit on the dieing when warm, i replaced it last night, ran it in the morning, and no more dieing how it would before.

Do these carbs have some kind of squirter? I noticed looking down the throat it kinda just sprays, unlike any other Carb that actually squirts a stream down into the actual intake port.

Also I found a very small hole on the base of the driver side that is open intake leak, doesn't seem to do anything if you plug it with finger or not, but spraying brake clean in the hole kills the motor instantly. Any idea what that hole would be doing there? I'll add a pic in a bit.

Also there are 2 holes on the exhaust manifold that seem to have something to do with the flapper shaft, that are actually leaking exhaust. I suppose I could tap the hole and add a little Allen plug. Any input?

Everything also seems to be getting fairly hot, temp gauge reads where it should be, but Carb, intake, dipstick eventually get to hot to even touch. Could this be a lean thing? Exhaust out the tail pipe seems a tad rich though

You should see a solid squirt/shot of fuel each time you operate the throttle (with the engine off for safety). If you get a weak dribble, then the accelerator pump system has problems.
Not a leak. It's supposed to be there. It's for calibration of various vacuum-operated parts (vacuum advance, step-up piston).
NEVER spray brake cleaner into the intake tract of an engine! It's very dangerous; if the can of brake cleaner you happen to grab contains any chlorinated solvents, which many of them still do, you will generate phosgene gas, a strong poison used as a chemical weapon in WWI. If you wish to test the effect of temporarily richening the mixture or if you're looking for leaks, carefully use carburetor cleaner.
Are you quite sure they are actually leaking exhaust? If so, then the manifold heat control valve bushings are shot.
The parts of a running engine will get too hot to touch, yes.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Isn't there a way of using propane for leaks?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

so i figured out that starting when cold is a choke problem, i take the choke linkage off, and it will fire right up. and in a few minutes i can stick it back on, so im sure id just have to adjust it. i gotta read more up on that later, but i have bigger issues at the moment.

when the car is warm, it will idle at 800, but will not go into gear, it will make a loud sound, jerk fairly hard, and stumble to its death vigorously. but if the rpm is higher, it will stay in gear, still makes a loud jerk, and seems to kill the rpm pretty good. could this be a tranny issue? the trans worked just fine before, fluid level is correct (warm in neutral)

also at a certain point of running, it will all of a sudden start to stumble, reving wont keep it alive much longer, infact if im not careful giving it gas will kill it easier. if i shut the key off, and turn it back over, it will run just fine for the next 15 seconds, stumble again. only would shutting the car off and back on will it fix the poor running for a short time. if you read this dan, does this seem like that electrical issue you were talking about weather it be the dist or the box? i tried the heat gun trick and it didnt seem to make a difference. or could it be some kind of carb issue something making it load up.

also while checking the vacuum advance, it seems to take a fair amount of good effort to suck on the hose to get it to advance, maybe its because the hose is so long, but on a vw motor it doesnt take quite as much effort to do so. it doesnt seem to leak down or anything, it sticks to my lip for a few minutes.