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 Post subject: Yes...
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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I normally set the advance at 2500 rpm rather than using only an idle setting. Would you set it up with all advance in?
If I were setting up a known distributor then I would gauge it from curve and set the base timing and go from there.

If unsure about the advance, and looking for a specific number I would get the engine warm, set the idle screw to about 200 rpm above your typical highway cruise rpm (2700 rpm?), adjust the timing to be about 28-30 degrees then lock it down.

If you get pinging during a test drive, back the timing off a couple degrees and try again. If it's a lot of advance compared to previous settings you may need to check you spark plugs and adjust your carbs settings.

FYI, I would typically go for 47-52 degrees (total advance/base+mech+vacuum) in a car, maybe 54 in a lighter car), but would keep it in the 44-47 range if a truck or van since the power to weight ratio is going to cause the engine to work harder and too much advance will = knock.


-D.idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13281
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Listen to DI. He is the distributor recurving guru. :bow:

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 Post subject: Old Red(S)
PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 11:31 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:38 am
Posts: 202
Location: Medical Lake, WA
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I have an 81, same color. I love it. Here are some things you should consider:

1. Magnecor spark plug and coil wire(s). Wow. I thought new OEM NAPA stuff was ok. Ummm...nope. If I had to point out one single thing that shocked me with a notable performance upgrade this was it. Now maybe the Magnecor isn't THAT good...but I will tell you what, the NEW OEM stuff is that BAD. My Slant NEVER idled so smoothly before Magnecor. If you buy those wires and handle them you will understand the difference.

2. Remflex gaskets for the manifolds. The fix for your vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks. Hell, if I had a Slant without the Remflex I would pull the manifolds off and put them on. So worth it.

3. A 3/8 inch threaded steel rod to keep the Goat Head on your truck. Do it now before the devil worshippers steal it. The spring part unscrews...get the proper size rod, epoxy the rod and thread it in. Done for good.

4. Pray for your old starter to die and replace it with a mini starter. My starter was engaged in a slow, noisy death and when I could stand it no longer the mini starter went in. Wow. What a difference. No more dying goose sound from under the hood. Turns it over so much quicker that it just flat starts. Very nice.

5. Stock pile the weird parts. Go to the various junk yards in your area now and grab what is around. Things like vent window latches. The little plastic/nylon nubbins decay away and the windows don't latch. Slant six manifold washers, over flow tanks, thermostat housings, spindles, various interior parts and fasteners, etc. I have a nice little stockpile of parts for less than 100 dollars...in my part of the world the trucks are common enough but they crush them very quickly. Two weeks in the yard is what the norm seems to be.

They made these RAMS out of galvanized sheet metal and they last a long time so plan on driving it for a long time.

Aside from a rebuilt engine, new paint, or tires/wheels you would be hard pressed to spend more than $1000 in making it a better ride...enjoy...

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