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trying to start but just cant
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51954		 Page 3 of 3
Author:  Fopar [ Sun May 12, 2013 10:41 pm ]
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"a coil but it only has three pins and only two wires on the plug, is there anyway I can use this coil to save money?"

Yes, but if you have a tachometer you will not have the connection from the coil, (read the part explaining wiring for coil).

"If you use this combination coil/module assembly, the original coil has three terminal pins:"

A is the coil's primary (+) terminal; gets ignition-on 12v and is connected to module pin "A".

B is a tachometer signal output. Not used if you don't have a tach.

C is the coil's primary (-) terminal, goes to module pin "D"

Richard
Author:  ez1990 [ Sun May 12, 2013 10:49 pm ]
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thanks that saves me a lot of time researching
Author:  Reed [ Mon May 13, 2013 8:00 am ]
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Quote:
Reed:
Quote:
Lean burn systems do not use a ballast resistor.

Not true.


Our 1976 400ci 4v Lean Burn equipped Cordoba purchased spring of ‘76 had a ballast resistor. This was the first engine Chrysler fitted with lean burn, and believe the only Car/ Engine combination in 1976 that did not come from factory with a catalytic converter.
By the 1980s this was true. I have reviewed several mid-80s lean burn wiring diagrams and none of them show a ballast resistor. THe lean burn system used a different coil than the standard electronic ignition system and all voltage to the coil was controlled by the lean burn computer.
Author:  wjajr [ Mon May 13, 2013 9:51 am ]
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Reed:
Quote:
I have reviewed several mid-80s lean burn wiring diagrams and none of them show a ballast resistor.

That could be true as by 1978 a second generation Lean Burn system had been fitted with several changes involving vacuum advance elimination, coil specks, distributor pickup, and probably the logarithms.

Spring of 76 was when the first lean burn appeared on the 400ci 4v engines, 77 more engines were fitted with LB, and by 78 I think all Chrysler engines were lean burn controlled.
Author:  ez1990 [ Tue May 14, 2013 9:46 am ]
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I spoke with a guy (that says he knows about engines) that said when I re inserted the distributor that I could of found TDC on the exaust stroke and that hes sure that is my problem ...now I do not in any way shape or form think this is correct because of how the engine begins to take off but still doesn't run, also that woudnt have anything to do with the buzzing or the arching, but I figured it was atleast a laugh to ask you guys ...any way this is possible?
Author:  Reed [ Tue May 14, 2013 10:24 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I spoke with a guy (that says he knows about engines) that said when I re inserted the distributor that I could of found TDC on the exaust stroke and that hes sure that is my problem ...now I do not in any way shape or form think this is correct because of how the engine begins to take off but still doesn't run, also that woudnt have anything to do with the buzzing or the arching, but I figured it was atleast a laugh to ask you guys ...any way this is possible?
It doesn't have anything to do with the buzzing or arcing, but it is possible. I once had a 1976 Volare powered y a slant six that I purchased cheap because the previous owner had done a tune up but had gotten the rotor exactly 180 degrees out of phase with where it should have been. THe engine ran smooth but lacked power. It is worth it to double check that your rotor is pointed at the right place when it should be pointed there, but that won't fix your buzzing and arcing. Since you have to pull the distributor anyway, you might as well just do the HEI upgrade and eliminate the lean burn ignition system.
Author:  ez1990 [ Tue May 14, 2013 11:00 am ]
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I am already doing the HEI upgrade, just waiting on parts. I don't think I've got it out as much as 108degrees, mabey a tooth or two but not that much ...I have done that several times on the 318s and 360s but since they don't use gears its fairy easy to screw up and equally easy to fix.
Author:  ez1990 [ Tue May 14, 2013 11:04 am ]
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also I watched a video on the HEI upgrade and he mentioned that when swapping the distributors that the older hold down brackets are different, now do I need a new bracket with the new dist. or can I just modify the existing bracket by drilling the hole to a larger size or is there some difference on the holding part to
Author:  Reed [ Tue May 14, 2013 11:27 am ]
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You will want to use the stock hold-down bracket on your mid 80s motor. Originally, the slant six used a distributor hold down that limited the amount the distributor could rotate. In the late 70s Chrysler switch to a v-8 style distributor hold down assembly that allows for almost 360 degrees of rotation (it would be 360 except the vacuum advance pod hits the block). Your van should have the later superior style hold-down already. Reuse it. Be sure to re-use the bracket bolted to the bottom of the distributor as well.
Author:  Fopar [ Tue May 14, 2013 11:33 am ]
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The new style hold down bracket will allow you to turn the distbutor to any postion as it uses a forked plate to hold the round plate on the distributor tight to the block. No need to open any holes bigger, just a longer hold down bolt for the block.

Richard
Author:  ez1990 [ Tue May 14, 2013 7:01 pm ]
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[/Originally, the slant six used a distributor hold down that limited the amount the distributor could rotate. In the late 70s Chrysler switch to a v-8 style distributor hold down assembly that allows for almost 360 degrees of rotation (it would be 360 except the vacuum advance pod hits the block). Your van should have the later superior style hold-down already. Reuse it. Be sure to re-use the bracket bolted to the bottom of the distributor as well.]

then I suspect some part swapping has already been done to my engine because with my hold down plate on my dist. will only turn about 90 degrees or so also iam not for sure but I don't think my current dist. has a bracket bolted to the bottom.


[ No need to open any holes bigger, just a longer hold down bolt for the block.]

why would I need a longer bolt? I have ordered a dist. for a manual trans. since it has a vacuum can so that I can do the hei conv. as well keep as many parts as I can for the same year
Author:  ez1990 [ Tue May 21, 2013 8:37 pm ]
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well after some serious thinking I removed my valve cover and quickly found what has been my problem all along. five bent bush rods, two simply out of the lifters and 6 lifters pushed or pulled out of their place ...I would of never guessed that just setting would of caused such destruction but with the help of a telescoping magnet, a hammer and good hard cinderblock I now have my van running like a top and better than it ever could of due to my hei upgrade... thanks to everyone, I would of never gotten this far without your help
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