Which profile?

The exhaust looks great but.....
DI has a good point, with air restriction of the Weber air filter. Maybe you could double stack two filters to get enough air flow...

The best thing you can do for your truck engine is compression and a distributor recurve. That will wake it up. The recurve will help a little right now with driveablity until you can bump up the compression.

Glad you're getting it worked out. I love to see slanted trucks. Nice flathead BTW. I have the same carb with a mopar ignition. Timing is 8-base with 28-full mech adv. I'm running 170 mains which I thought might be rich but the plugs are reading good. Let me know how your mixture works for you. I'm still trying to fine tune the fueling.
When my slant had the 1bbl, it wouldn't produce much past 3k. Now it pulls past and makes good power to 3800. It may make more but I don't push it too hard. I have history of destroying bearings on slants

So what was the verdict on the Oregon can with intake profiles? Did not find/read the conclusion

good timing on that question,, will be making a first road trip with the 83 D-150 this Saturday to get the bed / hood back from the shop,, that will be covered in a thread over in the gallery section..

but this is your thread,, so continue on,, did you ever get compression numbers?

Make sure to wrap that big head pipe. That will hold heat in the exhaust as long as possible. Back pressure is not required, and is actually not wanted. Velocity is what is needed. Keeping the spent gasses hot maintains volume, so keeps the velocity up.
Once you have good exhaust flow, the big jets will work better. They will also become a necessity.

Welcome to dot org!

CJ
From a hotel somewhere in New Jersey

Make sure to wrap that big head pipe. That will hold heat in the exhaust as long as possible. Back pressure is not required, and is actually not wanted. Velocity is what is needed. Keeping the spent gasses hot maintains volume, so keeps the velocity up.
Once you have good exhaust flow, the big jets will work better. They will also become a necessity.

Welcome to dot org!

CJ
From a hotel somewhere in New Jersey

Will break RR tire loose for 6+' when i start in 1 and bury my foot.

This has been a fascinating read. That is a handsome truck indeed.

I got the biggest improvement in both power and economy on my slant from two things:

1. Running new wires pretty much everywhere, and bypassing thy ohm meter in the dash. I was getting about a two volt drop between the alternator and the 12volt side of the ballast resistor. There are just too many high resistance connections between the two on the stock set up. Take a VOM and check the voltage at various places along the path from alt to ignition, and see if and where it drops off. I think 1/2 volt is bordering on too much. Points ignition could tolerate this, but electronic ones will not.

2. Getting a good timing curve set up.I now have EFI which has a programmable timing curve, but the mechanical equivalent would be 10 base, 20 in the mechanical, 20 in the vacuum. The rates these come in are then played with until you optimize your setup. Springs do this on the mechanical, and an adjustable vacuum pod allows adjusting when the vacuum drop off affects timing. The AMOUNTS of advancee are all adjustable in a stock distributor, but not easily. There are numerous threads here on the forum discussing this issue.

I agree with whoever said it, your exhaust, while beautiful, is too big.

Let us know how the compression reading comes out.

Sam

I think the exhaust is not hurting you that much.

Dist recurve? I understand in theory but how to do physically? Change springs, change weights???