I am curious what this is, it was bolted I believe under one of the nuts or bolts on head

This is two other within the harness that I am not finding a home for, maybe someone here will recognize them?

These two plugs went onto this connector on intake, I do not know what the connector is nor what they are supposed to accomplish. My 1986 manifold does not have this device although the casting imprint is there.

Yay. If you do have the "brain" on the firewall then you don't have a lean burn controlled ignition. But verify that you don't have a lean burn controlled carb.

If you are willing to put in the time, it is very easy to unwrap the wiring harness under the hood and remove just the wires you want to remove. I did this last summer on my brother's 1983 Dodge van. It was originally built with lean burn but a previous owner hacked in a non-lean burn carb and distributor. I unwrapped the original wiring harness and removed all the unnecessary wires. It is actually pretty easy because you will find that most of the wires in the two big black plugs that went to the lean burn computer are the wires for the emissions related items that have been removed. If you follow those wires and remove only them then your harness will get much cleaner. The only tricky part is using the wiring diagram to make sure that you aren't also removing a power feed or wire for some item that you are keeping, such as the oil pressure sending unit or the choke thermostat. It isn't that hard though.

If you are willing to put in the time, it is very easy to unwrap the wiring harness under the hood and remove just the wires you want to remove. I did this last summer on my brother's 1983 Dodge van. It was originally built with lean burn but a previous owner hacked in a non-lean burn carb and distributor. I unwrapped the original wiring harness and removed all the unnecessary wires. It is actually pretty easy because you will find that most of the wires in the two big black plugs that went to the lean burn computer are the wires for the emissions related items that have been removed. If you follow those wires and remove only them then your harness will get much cleaner. The only tricky part is using the wiring diagram to make sure that you aren't also removing a power feed or wire for some item that you are keeping, such as the oil pressure sending unit or the choke thermostat. It isn't that hard though.

The black one I believe plugs into part of the EGR vacuum control system. The white plug is J1C-14R on the wiring diagram I posted. It is the positive feed for the oil pressure sending unit as well as the choke thermostat.

Resistor for the choke thermostat. The wire spliced into one of the field wires from the alternator feeds current to one side of that resistor and the other side of that resistor attaches to the wire that goes to the choke thermostat bolted in the exhaust manifold. Bolt the resistor to the rear bolt hole in the top of the head.

This is also a lean burn distributor. Note the absence of the vacuum advance can. If you pulled that pickup plate you would also find that there was no mechanical advance mechanism in the distributor. You do not want to use this distributor for anything except racing or as a trigger for a fuel injection system. in other words, you don't want it in your truck.

You will need to find a slant six distributor from a vehicle that had standard electronic ignition. DO NOT USE THE MOPAR PERFORMANCE DISTRIBUTOR. The springs in those kits are way too light for a street driven truck and are intended for drag racing. Get a distributor from a truck or van form the 70s or early 80s.

Numbers one thru three were not on my 1986 carb, I removed them from the 84 carb thinking I may need them, again maybe they are unnecessary, the truck ran fine without them.

I can see what they are within the service manual but the desc of their function is not clear to me.

I should have put a # 4 on the linkage in between 1 and 2 because that was also missing from my carb.

I also did not have the choke stove ( the deal on the intake to carb ) hooked up when I took delivery of truck as some of those pieces were missing as well.

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1 = vacuum operated choke pulloff. Verify that the diaphragm still holds a vacuum and then hook a hose up to the nipple on the pulloff and the correct port on the carb

2 = idle stop solenoid used to increase idle when the AC is engaged. You will need to get a factory service manual to learn how to properly set your idle speed since this solenoid is what you adjust to set the idle speed. This is a useful item that should be left intact and functioning. When the AC is engaged the solenoid plunger pops out of the body and kicks the throttle open slightly. A good thing.

3 = EGR valve. If the rest of the system has been removed, either flip the valve 180 degrees and forget about it, or remove it and install a blockoff plate.