Ugh. Just ugh.
What is it that they say about the drawing board???
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| Author: | 63valconvert [ Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:40 pm ] |
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Ugh. Just ugh. What is it that they say about the drawing board???
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| Author: | Reed [ Sat Oct 12, 2013 1:09 pm ] |
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I take it that is a no? If the tool is installed correctly there is no way for the piston to travel to TDC. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 3:11 pm ] |
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Any luck? |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 6:46 pm ] |
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Raised the curb idle to 650 and this didn't help the roughness I feel while stepping on the brake in gear. The viiiiiiiibration transmitted into the passenger compartment at this idle is impressive and undesirable. I'm hoping the new poly engine mounts I installed are not contributing to the problem, but I was reading this thread, which is concerning me. I want a good lifetime mount, but not one that contributes and doesn't solve the problem. The rear trans mount (below) was unbelievably toasted, and I thought changing it out (other than being totally necessary) might help the vibration, so I installed a new rear mount yesterday - now the mounts are poly all the way around. New mount was from Schumacher, though it looks like his supplier is Imperial Services. Alas, the vibrating did not go away as I'd hoped. It got a little better than before, which isn't saying much. Guess I have more work to do! Engine is running pretty darn smooth though. Does some of this vibration tend to go away over time when all these new parts get 'broken in'? Still have to check TDC and convert over to HEI.      
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| Author: | Reed [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 7:41 pm ] |
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For what it is worth, THESE are the mounts Dan recommended awhile back. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for. Worn out motor mounts can cause excessive vibration. |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 9:04 pm ] |
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Those are on the front. But Joe doesn't make a rear tranny poly mount. Drove around a little bit tonight. Actually considerably better than I first stated. Windows are still vibrating in their channels though. I'm sure worn down felt creates excessive clearance that doesn't help anything. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 9:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | New mount vibration |
Eatkinson, I went through the same thing after replacing all three mounts. Yes, I used poly.... The engine vibrates like a bad dog at certain rpm once under way. It has not gone away with time either.....It does it at both on my good high compression motor and the stock motor. Mine tends to vibrate a lot right at 550 rpm in gear at a light. My high compression motor vibrates less than the stock motor since it is internally balanced (rods, pistons, and crank). It is rather annoying.....but I have gotten used to it. My original motor never vibrated like this and all three mounts were very soft, but not broken. |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:06 am ] |
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Got it. I wondering if anyone has gone from the polyurethane mounts back to rubber and noticed a big quiet-down? Sounds silly to say it, but when I was driving the car around tonight, I realized that if I were to replace the window channels with good felt and tight clearances, and perhaps figure out why the pot metal horn ring is jiggling, that the vibration actually wouldn't be too terrible to live with. Not as quiet as before, but certainly not as bad as I first thought. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 2:32 pm ] |
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Quote: I wondering if anyone has gone from the polyurethane mounts back to rubber and noticed a big quiet-down?
My thoughts exactly!I got a set of new stock rubber mounts to try....about $55.00 for both and they also allow the vibrations to come through, so nothing good to report on that option. Mine vibrates at those two locations as well. |
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| Author: | 63valconvert [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 3:03 pm ] |
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Quote: Any luck?
Yep. Definitely has to be screwed out all the way, but it worked. Definitely makes a good thud noise when it hits, too, which is nice.Completed the operation, and by eye it looks ok. I'll see what a tape measure says. Good to be wrong about the tool. It works! (when sometimes my brain doesn't!) 
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 3:29 pm ] |
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I knew you could do it! FYI- I have degreed brand new dampers and found them to be 4 degrees off from correct TDC. |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 7:05 pm ] |
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Quote: Quote: I wondering if anyone has gone from the polyurethane mounts back to rubber and noticed a big quiet-down?
My thoughts exactly!I got a set of new stock rubber mounts to try....about $55.00 for both and they also allow the vibrations to come through, so nothing good to report on that option. Mine vibrates at those two locations as well. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Tue Oct 15, 2013 6:37 pm ] |
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Yes! Time to fix the window seals and steering wheel! and what ever else rattles. It is an old car.... Insulate the doors, new seals etc..... |
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| Author: | Eatkinson [ Sun Nov 10, 2013 4:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Update |
Last weekend, I spent more time on this. Reed, thanks. You are correct: I verified the damper mark has indeed slipped. TDC is now about 2 degrees to the right of the punch slot. Made a new mark with whiteout and started fine-tuning everything from there. The old timing light I bought wasn't working, so in a fit of annoyance, I grabbed the distributor, and turned it clockwise, as far as it would go just to try and make something happen. And it did: the idle dropped noticeably, and that smoothed out the vibration I was feeling inside the car a lot. I performed carb adjustments, and went on a test drive around a few blocks. But the engine started running hotter than usual. So after arriving home, I adjusted the distributor very slightly counter clockwise and locked it down. It did sacrifice some of the smoothness, but the engine's temp is now running where it should. But I wasn't satisfied that I couldn't verify timing. Today I spent some time with the light and managed to get the strobe going. While I'm not exactly sure how I'm reading the degree scale next to the damper, what I'm seeing is TDC hitting right around 3° above the 0° mark, on a scale of 0°-5°-10°. I don't know where the mark was when I had the distributor rotated farther clockwise and I was feeling more vibration at a higher curb idle. So how am I supposed to read TDC hitting @ the 3° mark, and where do I want it to be? Am I reading that as 3° BTDC? Or ATDC? Not quite sure what I'm reading there. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sun Nov 10, 2013 6:48 pm ] |
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Sounds like you have set the timing to 3 degrees after TDC. The 5 and 10 marks are BTDC. Turning the distributor counter clockwise should advance the timing and make the engine run smoother and faster. Try putting the timing at 5 BTDC and then work on the carb settings (sped and mixture). If that doesn't smooth it out try adjusting the valve to .012 intake and .022 exhaust. |
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