What questions do you still need answered?

I can tell you that if you put oil in at the sending unit location and didn't destroy the anti-drainback valve in the oil filter there will be little oil going from your tank backward into the filter.

If the engine was assembled with the right parts (grooved rear cam journal) and the rear cam bearing is installed properly (you can only see this with the camshaft out) oil would have filled the rocker shaft when the oil tank pressurized the engine.

The head gasket can't be installed incorrectly without it being painfully obvious.

This thread is frustrating to me. You state that you should have done this build yourself yet show serious gaps in your understanding of slant six architecture.

The cam should have come grooved in the rear most bearing point but sometimes they do not ( for an un-known reason too me )

I do not see how I can be mistaken in that the hole that feeds oil into the rocker shaft that is down in the head also mingles with that head bolt......I know you know this much better than I do though so again I will have a look at that spare head and see where or why I am mistaken. Thanks

The oil passage does not go through any head bolt passage. The oil passage is completely independent of any head bolt passage.

Flip the head over so it is bottom up. Now find the little hole at the back of the head. Run a pipe cleaner through it and watch if it intersect the rear outboard head bolt hole before popping out of the rocker shaft bolt hole.

Think about it. If the oil gallery passed through that head bolt hole, then you would absolutely need some kind of gasket or other positive seal around the bolt head or you could loose all oil pressure due to a loose head bolt.

Jehosofat!!!!!!! Why is everyone considering the hard stuff first. At this point, it has not been verified that the oil pump is suppling oil. That is so easy to check. I have not worked on a slant truck in many years, but I think the pan and the oil pump can be removed easily with the engine still installed. Verify the pump is pumping. If not pull the pump and/or pan to check the pump, and/or the pickup tube.

Since the blank suppliers are not 100% concerned about this engine (not being rebuilt in vast quantities like the chevy small block), volume and demand for blanks is not that great...the hydro cam blank is just like a mechanical blank except that the rear journal is grooved but the metering holes are not drilled...since quality control has gone downhill with most of this work being done out of country you can get any of the following issues with camshafts on new blanks these days:

1) oil pump/distributor gear not hobbed/cut correctly
2) oil holes not drilled in correct alignment(mech cam only)
3) oil holes not drilled through to intersect each other (mech cam only)
4) rear journal not grooved (hydro cam issue)
5) rear journal grooved and drilled (obviously used a mech blank for a hydro grind...no problems for the hydro cam user...causes excessive oiling for the mech cam user though).

I've seen all 5 issues in the last 8 years of rebuilding slants.

Basically at this point when your machinist shows up, you will pull the head and the timing cover/chain and then pull the lifters and cam and see if the cam has a grooved rear journal, or if the cam bearings were installed in the wrong order or the holes not 'clocked' correctly...if those are correct, the next order of business would be to see if the groove in the rear journal is lined up with the oil holes in the cam bearing...if all is good there, the pump become suspect I have had a few new melling oil pump failures in the last few years and that is just a crap shoot if you got a good one or not...

-D.Idiot

Respectfully this is what I did to know that the head bolt intersected with the oil hole. Thats why I was stumped.

In my nearly 20 years of slant six wrenching I have never actually run a pipe cleaner up that hole to trace where it goes. I stand corrected and apologize for the incorrect information.