That vacuum pull off your pointing to should be pulling it back. You may have to replace it.
All 1945's have three ports side by side on the opposite side, vacuum advance, PCV and the carb canister port. I hope yours is not broken off.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

His carb has the port that is normally used for vacuum advance, but as the vacuum diagram shows, his carb is one of the later models that has full time vacuum at what used to be the ported vacuum advance nipple. What used to be the vacuum advance port is now the full time vacuum tap for the ESA.

This is why it pays to START a project by reading the factory service manual. It tells you all these little details that have a huge impact on the project.

You might as well stop messing with this carb and find an older Holley 1945 that has the correct vacuum advance port for your application.

HERE is a possible candidate, HERE is another, and HERE is a third.

Another and better option would be to try and track down a new old stock carb from a NOS parts supplier like:

Old Car Parts Northwest
http://oldcarpartsnw.com/contact.aspx (be sure to call. If you don't get a call back, you call again. This is a one man operation but I have seen his warehouse and it is pretty amazing.)

Arizona Auto Parts
http://www.arizonaparts.com

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Sounds good, let me know. What vehicles would this carb have been originally used with. I can in the meantime look in the salvage yards myself for at least one to have that I can play round with/spare parts.

If you are sticking with the Holley 1945, look for any slant six powered vehicle from 1974 to the early 80s (Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, trucks, vans, and cars). After about 1980 it really becomes hit or miss if the carb has the correct ported vacuum advance nipple since the lean burn systems started appearing with more frequency on the early 1980s vehicles.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Note while this is true, the calibration will be different between the vehicle types and sometimes between the years (main jets vary between #58 in the 1974 cars to #61 in the 1976 cars to #63 or so in the trucks), also there are some differences in equipment offered on the the manual versions and the automatic versions (dash pot and later electric throttle hold off solenoid to prevent lean out during coasting while the throttle plates are shut at high speeds...aka "shooting ducks".

-D.Idiot

I am not sticking with anything, I wouldnt know a 1945 from a 1944. Just looking for suggestions and so far this has been the only one offered.

At this point since whatever I put on it is only temporary to get the truck running better/more efficiently I am not overly concerned with having a period correct ( or even in the ballpark era wise ) carb set-up. Id just like to have a decent reliable carb that can be had without breaking the bank.

Whatever changes I make too the truck visually Id like things too look like they belong or could have belonged. Id rather not have a demon bolted too my intake if you get my meaning.

You should be......You need the period correct carb so you can get the correct ported vacuum advance. You don't want to have 40 degrees of advance off idle. That is why....it would ping like crazy......
You won't go wrong with a 1974 unit and re jet it however, it would be nice to find a 1976 version 1945. Down load the 1945 manual since they are free from the Engine FAQ section on this site.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I assumed that there was a newer version aftermarket carb that was avail and would work specifically for what I needed. That is where the comment came from.

Only two one barrel carbs can be easily made to work on your truck- the older Holley model 1920 and the newer Holley model 1945. These were the only model single barrel carbs used on the slant six after the late 60s. The 1920 was used prior to 74, the 1945 (and later computer controlled variant the Holley 6145) were used after 1974. Your truck was built with a 1945, so the choke thermostat and vacuum hoses present on your truck will work with almost any Holley 1945 model carb you bolt on. The Holley 1920 can also work, but some minor changes might need to be made.

You have one choice for a carb that will bolt on to your engine and work with the choke and emissions equipment already on the truck- the Holley 1945. As I said above, this carb was factory installed on the slant six from 1974 through 1987. There are numerous variations of this carb that were used depending on year, equipment options, and emissions standards. One of these variations was that in the later years the nipple that originally provided the ported vacuum for the distributor vacuum advance was used instead to provide full time vacuum for the lean-burn computer. You have removed the lean burn computer and are running a distributor that has a vacuum controlled advance system. To make this system work, you need to use a carb that has the ported vacuum advance nipple. This means you need to find a Holley 1945 that was designed for use on a non-lean-lburn controlled slant six. Your best bet for that is to find a carb intended for a pre-1980 vehicle.

The Holley 1920 was never installed with a computer controlled engine, so any 1920 you find will have the correct ported vacuum advance nipple. However, the 1920 uses a different choke thermostat than the 6145. Further, the 1920 was installed on the slant six as far back as 1960, but the pre-67 1920s use a different throttle linkage system than is present on your truck. THIs means that you have to find a 67-74 1920.

These carbs are old. Most any carb you can find now will have throttle shaft wear that cause a vacuum leak. Most any carb you find will need at the very least a good rebuild and adjustment verification. This is why I recommend you find a new-old-stock carburetor rather than chance buying a used one. Due to poor quality, "remanufactured" carbs sold at parts stores are really a crap shoot. Some people still manage to get useable carburetors from the parts store, but usually they have to open them up and correct mistakes made at the "rebuilding" plant.

Single barrel carbs are really ignored by the aftermarket. All the money for aftermarket parts comes mostly from people who want to build a high performance V8, and V8s just don't use single barrel carbs. There is no aftermarket single barrel carb made that will work easily on your truck.

Unless you get lucky, any carburetor you find that is worth buying will be expensive. The days of paying $10 for a decent condition used carb are long gone, unless you get lucky. Most any carb will cost you more than $150, NOS will usually be more than $200 these days. EBay and NOS parts suppliers are your best bet, as are swap meets, Craigslist, and posting a want ad on this message board.

I posted links to three carbs for sale right now on eBay that are close to what you are looking for as well as the contact information to two NOS and used parts dealers. I suggest you start with those links.

Dusteridiot makes a good point- you want to keep the idle stop solenoid that is on the carb you have on the truck right now. The good news is that this solenoid can be easily transferred to an older carb by just bolting it on.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Ok lots of good usefull info here guys and thanks, I am starting to understand that my options are limited.

So what is the answer for that solenoid that is needed to give the carb a bit of throttle when the A/C is kicked on.

I have three or 4 non functioning/semi functioning units and from what I have found they re no longer avail anywhere.

I have been assuming that if I were to change carbs that I would have some sort of alternative switch?

What are you guys doing that run A/C with these engines?

I notice that when that compressor clicks in the engine really drags, it needs that extra bit of umph that the solenoid compensates for.

Stupid question but should I be concerned with driving the truck with no vacuum advance line hooked up to dist. I dont want to cause any problems by doing so for the time being while I look for the correct carb.

The solenoid should be wired so the positive lead of the solenoid is spliced into the AC compressor clutch wire (the solenoid - lead should be grounded). You do this so the solenoid engages and raises the base idle speed when the compressor is engaged and a load is placed on the engine. The solenoid only kicks out about 1/4 inch or so. It is not a very large amount of travel at the plunger. The solenoid is a very simple electromechanical device. If you have a starter or alternator rebuild shop near you they may be able to repair any solenoids you have.

The truck will drive OK without the vacuum advance hooked up, but you will not have as much low rpm power or cruising economy as you would with a functioning vacuum advance hose. The engine will not be damaged by driving without the vacuum advance hooked up.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Yes I have it wired properly per your earlier instructions. Ok on the advance, good too know

I believe I scored big-time today. This carb looks brand new inside and out, it was removed from a 75 Dart that was evidently running/driving and was rear ended. Clean, not saying it will do what I need it to do but at this point I think it would be foolish too do anything else before I bolt it on and see what it can do.

Can anyone tell me what model this is specifically, I need to find a vacuum diagram so I know what to plug off and what I will need.

Maybe someone here can help with that diagram?

I believe that even the A/C plunger will work once I re-solder the wire back into it that was accidentally pulled out.

Looking down inside the carb it looks brand new. I know it doesnt say much but Napa wants 389 dollars for this same carb and I got this one for next to nothing so I figured it was well worth trying.








Can someone tell me what this is, it is a blocked off hole on the carb that is on the truck. I am assuming I can remove it and plug it with something?