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New here and got some questions!!
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54233
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Author:  oldskoolracer [ Sat Jan 11, 2014 10:31 am ]
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Well, the accel pump wont have that much effect at idle. It only plays a role as you open the throttle. Its is kind of sounding like the points are off, maybe the little screw came loose enough to allow the gap/dwell to change, or betwwen a failing coil and possibly bad resistor could have fould them pre-maturely.

Best thing I can suggest at this point, even though its a pain in the butt and no body likes to back-tract, start fresh... Go back through and make sure wires are in the correct order as well as snap tightly into thier sockets at the cap and at the plugs. Recheck the point gap, bring the engine to TDC and check that the rotor lines up with the #1 plug wire under the cap.

Recheck all the screws on the carb body to make sure theyre tight (sometimes they become loose after a rebuild if no thread locker is used), as well as the carb to manifold bolts/studs.

Try to start it when you verify that all of the above checks out fine and see how it does. If it sounds good, warm it up all the way and set the carb and timing. 750+/- rpm and start with the timing between 5-7* btdc and see how it acts when driving it. If your setting carb with a vac gauge expect between 15-17" readings at idle and not the typical 17-21"

Hope you get it figured out, I know how frustrating it is. The carter 1bbl cant be too much different that the 2bbl so Ill help you the best I can through those issues as well :D

Author:  dodgeD100 [ Sat Jan 11, 2014 5:09 pm ]
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Well i already went thru the dizzy a second time, checked gaps and replaced the condensor all at the same time i replaced the coil.

The odd thing is that its something electrical.. cause my charging system is acting funky and then after installing the correct .8ohm resistor the car ran even worse and when reving it up the alt meter would raise up with the rpms and go on full charge. The whole while the car is popping and stumbling and sounding like its running on 3 cylinders.

Timing was checked and rechecked... seems like it runs worse at 5-7* and better at 10*+....

Author:  oldskoolracer [ Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:27 pm ]
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It very well could be in the electrical, especially given the age of the truck. However being points, I don't think it would be affected by current fluctuations in the charging system like electronic would. You may have to go through the wiring from the coil and ballast into the ignition switch. Make sure there are no broken, disconnected, or corroded wires. If you haven't done so already doing the ammeter bypass with a large wire from the alt to the battery helps stabilize the the system and reduce the load passing through the factory wiring. Mopars are notorious for electrical gremlins lol.

Author:  dodgeD100 [ Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:27 pm ]
Post subject: 

Finally got a good VR put on and my wavering charging stopped, lights dont flicked ect....

BUT i still cannot run the MSD .8ohm ballast resistor... im confused, i already have a ballast resistor on my truck stock from factory, and the truck runs fine with my MSD blaster2 coil and the stock ballast resistor, but if i use the RECOMMENDED msd resistor.... my truck will not run properlay at all.... i mean not even drive down the block for any reason bad... anyone have any idea as to why this is??

Jason

Author:  oldskoolracer [ Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

I don't think you should run both. I'm pretty sure the msd ballast is meant to reduce full battery voltage, not voltage that has already been reduced from another ballast. Use either the stock one only, or use the msd one only.

Author:  dodgeD100 [ Sun Jan 12, 2014 4:17 am ]
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Im gunna do the bypass, and do my headlights thru seperate relays and such, just slowly doing one thing at a time lol

As far as the ballast resistor goes I only run one or the other, not both at the same time. With the MSD resistor the car runs like garbage, with the stock resistor it runs fine. I guess ill just run the stock one. Im gunna call MSD later today when they open and get a tech to give me some answers.

Still have the odd stumbling and popping while cruising and acceleration. Its not real bad but its not right. It seems to be lacking some power also. Guess ill pull the carb again and check to see if something is blocked or dirty.

Jason

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