One more baby step -
Got a piece of blank fuel rail and bored it to fit the injector tops.
Took the crank over to the machine shop to be cleaned, crack checked, ground and polished.
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Nov 29, 2014 7:13 am ] |
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The nozzle extension is .253" diameter and .676" long. I guess I don't understand what you are looking for. I can't imagine an injector manufactured with enough metal thickness on it to be threaded. They are also pretty delicate. Too delicate to take the torque of screwing into a pipe thread. I initially thought I was going to make my injector bungs out of some kind of threaded fitting but getting them in the right location meant there would not be enough meat in the manifold to take threads. |
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| Author: | Ssg Pohlman [ Sat Nov 29, 2014 8:24 am ] |
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Thank you much sir, I'm not letting the cat outta the bag just yet as I'm yet to set it all up and play w it all. However, once I am done and it does work reasonably well, I'll do a full write up with pics and documents. Keep at it, Ive been on mine for a few days now pretty hard. Lots being taken out and now starting so,e of the reinstall. Can't wait to fire it up and start the endless job of tuning a carb lol. Good luck and keep us posted. |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sat Nov 29, 2014 8:24 am ] |
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What are your stand offs made out of ? Rick |
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Nov 29, 2014 8:27 am ] |
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The injector bungs? Machined from 3/4" 6061 aluminum bar stock. |
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Mon Dec 15, 2014 6:14 pm ] |
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One more baby step - Got a piece of blank fuel rail and bored it to fit the injector tops. Took the crank over to the machine shop to be cleaned, crack checked, ground and polished.
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Dec 20, 2014 4:44 pm ] |
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 Ran into my first setback. The block I was planning to build has a bad rear bearing cap. Looks like it either was swapped from a different motor or was fitted incorrectly from the factory. Anyway, it does not fit correctly into the block. Too tight on one side with a gap on the other side. There's also about a half inch patch in the bearing bore that has a rough cast surface. So not only does it not fit but was not machined properly. I'll post pics when I get the bits back from the machine shop. I should have looked at it all closer when I was pulling it apart.Luckily, I had seen another slant listed on Craigslist for a reasonable price. This morning I made the 350 mile round trip from here in Springfield down to Medford. Picked up motor #2 from a nice guy named Dave. Thanks Dave! |
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| Author: | Ssg Pohlman [ Sat Dec 20, 2014 5:38 pm ] |
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Looks like a hydraulic motor and a 904 behind it. By chance would it be a 904T? |
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:32 pm ] |
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Supposed to be a 1970 motor. The valve cover does not have the hydraulic 'dogleg' in the front corner. What do you see that looks like it is a hydro motor? I know close to zero about Mopar transmissions. I understand this one is a 904. What does the 'T' mean in 904T? |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Thu Dec 25, 2014 2:32 pm ] |
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Can the block have the crank journals line-bored? I did that to the last two motors that I had built. |
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Thu Dec 25, 2014 2:37 pm ] |
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Yes, but the nature of the problem with the rear main cap is that line boring would not fix it. Closer examination shows it was not manufactured correctly when new. I'll post pics when I get a chance. Oh, it was obviously good enough to run for many years in a stock motor but not usable for a high HP build. |
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Dec 27, 2014 10:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Port matching |
Motor #2 is torn down and off for cleaning and inspection. I'm lucky that there is a pretty much fully equipped automotive machine shop right next door. I just have to put the stuff on a hand truck and wheel it over and Martin takes care of it for me. The next thing to tackle is porting the head. The first step on that will be matching the manifolds to the head. I know I'm not the first guy to be disappointed with how inaccurate the mounting of the manifolds is. First I made up some offset bushings to help locate the exhaust manifold.  Exhaust manifold bolted in place with offset bushings. These are only temporary to hold in in place to drill holes for the pins.  
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Dec 27, 2014 10:38 pm ] |
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I drilled some 1/8" alignment holes (oops, no pic). I made up some alignment pins from short lengths of 1/8" stainless tig filler rod. I also made some alignment pins for the intake manifold  With the pins I can mount the manifolds accurately and repeatably. The head is only about 1/4" thick here so you have to be careful not to drill all the way through into the water jacket. Next I cleaned up a few overhanging gasket edges and made some clearance for the stream coming out of the injector nozzles. I went to a lot of trouble getting the injectors as close to the ports as possible and mounted at a 30 degree angle. That meant a little bit of material has to be removed from the head so the spray is not partially blocked. Note the hole for the alignment pin. 
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Dec 27, 2014 10:43 pm ] |
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I also made a transfer template so I could see how bad the exhaust manifold alignment is. It's really, really bad. This is a Chinese replica manifold. I got it because I wanted new iron for the 'cold weld' process on the T3 turbo adapter. That may turn out to have been a bad idea... Hmm... I have a good stock manifold off of engine #2 if I need a backup. |
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| Author: | ProCycle [ Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:38 pm ] |
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Made a little more progress on the intake manifold today. Welded up a plenum and cut/fit a cast elbow for the inlet. 
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| Author: | the_engineers [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:28 am ] |
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FWIW, O'Reilly Auto Parts has a wide selection of Holley parts in stock. For the most part, their counter crew doesn't know what any of the parts are, i.e. you could call and they would tell you "no"... Looks like that ship has sailed on your build, though. Back on topic, I think your build is awesome! |
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