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| Performance update; Bill D.'s '64 Valiant https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58352 |
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| Author: | Ccrussell [ Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:15 am ] |
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Bill, Does that car run a 7 1/4 inch rear? Will a 7 1/4 survive a turbo? Thanks Russ |
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| Author: | Ccrussell [ Mon Nov 16, 2015 11:16 am ] |
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Bill, Does that car run a 7 1/4 inch rear? Will a 7 1/4 survive a turbo? Thanks Russ |
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| Author: | Junior [ Mon Nov 16, 2015 12:56 pm ] |
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Quote: Bill,
pretty sure he is running an 8 3/4. the 7 1/4 wont hold up to a turbo. they barely hold up to stock slants. i have an 8 1/4 in my car and its holding up nicely.
Does that car run a 7 1/4 inch rear? Will a 7 1/4 survive a turbo? Thanks Russ |
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| Author: | billdedman [ Mon Nov 16, 2015 2:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | slant six/turbo rear ends... |
Junior is, as usual, 100% correct. If I had it to do over again, I'd put an 8 1/4" unit in there. They are plenty strong and lighter (faster) than an 8.75" drop-out rear, and a whole lot cheaper. Another factor is the ratio question. The 8.75" drop-out rear is handy for switching between hi-way gears and dragstip ratios, so, I thought that was what I wanted. Turns out, after a lot of testing, (not by me,) that the ideal ratio for a turbo slant six is a 2.76 for BOTH drag strip action AND the hiway cruise. Strange, but true. Something about the theory than a slant 6 turbo LIKES the idea of being "held-back".... not unlike a "fuel" motor in a dragster... Aspen/Volare/Duster/Dart 8.25" rears are all over the junkyards with 2.73 or 2.76 ratios, CHEAP, as opposed to 8.75" rears that, according to their A-Body prices, must be made out of gold or platinum. Leave them for the V-8 guys who need 'em... LOL! Bill, in Conway, Arkansas |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sun Nov 29, 2015 5:21 am ] |
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8.25' are Good Rear Ends. In My opinion the 8.75's are easier to build and setup because of their drop out design. You can bolt them onto an engine stand and get some spanner wrenches and go to town. You also can use a crush sleeve eliminator on the 489 Cases which I like. The 8.25 Crush sleeves can be a bit of a bear to crush down even with the entire housing out of the vehicle. Lastly the 8.25 should be avoided for any type of road / street racing setups as it is a c clip design to retain the axles. The clips can be stressed and the axle could slide out - Not as much of a problem for the Drag racing crowd, but they make c clip eliminator kits for GM rear ends of that design - Not sure about the 8.25. The 8.75 has bearing supports that also "hold in" the axles so no worries there. I am going to attempt to use an 8.75 in my next build, for an A body car. I will try to use the "B" body housing which will allow for modern wheels with tons of back spacing. Greg |
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| Author: | bmimken [ Sun Nov 29, 2015 7:55 am ] |
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Bill, Ron Hamby found that by adding rear weight to his drag car, he could go faster! His car never exhibited any signs of wheelspin prior to adding the weight (I think). Also sounds like the track that day may not have been up to par, if another racer(s) had traction issues. Congrats on your build so far!!!! Brian |
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| Author: | billdedman [ Tue Feb 02, 2016 2:15 pm ] |
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Thanks, Brian. Sorry for the posting delay. I may try adding 100, and maybe even 200 pounds to the backof the trunk area the next time I race it (this spring.) I hate to do that... had NO off-the-line wheelspin, but it broke the slicks loose (with a SPOOL!) about 60 mph and slewed sideways... three times, so the driver (not me,) had to get completely off the throttle or hit the wall... still managed to run 91+ mph in the eighth at 15 pounds of boost. I am encouraged, in spite of the problems. Bill |
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| Author: | 1974duster kev [ Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:58 pm ] |
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I have to double check but when I set my caltracs up just stuck a feeler gauge with my buddy in my seat so that there was maybe .020 before the bar hits the leaf spring. First and only run at the track on 19psi went from 2.0/2.1 spin city to 1.8 sort of hazing the tires on the launch. I have adjustable all four corner strange shocks set 70/30 in the front with the stick 90/10 was too much hitting bump stops on the street launches lol. The had to get in and out of it spinning through every gear up to about 80 before I aborted. Popped head gasket and two pistons was blowing coolant on my tires come to find out was the top end spinning lol. Funny how I whooped it on 19psi for 6 months and first pass at the track things got sketchy lol. Kev |
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| Author: | billdedman [ Thu Feb 04, 2016 11:02 pm ] |
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GuzziMark; I apologize for the delay in answering you on the tire pressure. Sorry! My first run was at 15 pounds; then we let them down to 12 pounds for the second run. BTW, they are Hoosier slicks (bias-ply) that are 26" tall In neither run was there any wheelspin in the first 50 feet. It started at about 60 mph. Weird! Thanks for your interest. I need off-tthe line performance like your car has! Bill, in Conway, Arkansas |
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| Author: | Team Green [ Mon Feb 22, 2016 5:41 am ] |
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Bill, I talked to Centerville Dragway about a slant 6 bracket at the MoPar's Invade Centerville the first of June and said they said yes. Will you be able to attend the race? Mark |
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| Author: | billdedman [ Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:16 am ] |
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Mark, If the good Lord's willing and the creeks don't rise... I shoud be able to be there. It sounds like a LOT of fun! I have only had my car to the strip twice, but it is not exhibiting any signs of mechanical damage so far, so, that's good. I didn't get to attend that Mo-Kan race where you put the hurts on that Hellcat, but, I heard that your car sustained some kind of engine (or, otherwise) damage on that run where you beat him so bad; can you give me any information about what happened? I was curious... And, the last time we talked, you said you were somehow involved in a new, turbocharged slant six car. How is that project going? I'd appreciate any information... We need more slant six race cars. Thanks for getting this slant six race on the schedule! That is sooooo neat! Looking forward to it, big-time!!! Bill, in Conway, Arkansas |
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