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| Replacing connecting rods https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61472 |
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| Author: | jacmifish [ Sun Apr 01, 2018 11:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
I have a question regarding the cam timing. I'm measuring an angle of 93.5 degrees when it should be 110 degrees. I beleive I followed this procedure right: http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP201 ... 08-409.pdf I measured an angle 135 degrees going clockwise after the max lift. At .05" down or 1.27mm (since I only have a dial gauge in metric) I measured an angle 52 degrees going clockwise before the max lift. At .05" down or 1.27mm A number this different makes me feel like I did something wrong however I've checked this quite a few times. I made a picture showing a few things here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2ucN9xoRkEa1mJfR2 |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sun Apr 01, 2018 12:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
Move the cam chain one tooth in the right direction and re-check. Many marks have been known to be wrong. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Sun Apr 01, 2018 3:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
Yes, probably a tooth off. Also, FWIW, I would never run a 225 Slant cam at 110 deg centerline. 104 max, and 100-102 best for a perf NA cam. For boost and/or a really mild/stock cam you could go a bit later, maybe 104. Lou |
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| Author: | jacmifish [ Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
Okay. I've got the timing at 108 at now. Looks like ill have to move the gear to the +4 keyway to get it at 104. A regular jaw puller doesnt seem to fit so ill see what may work. |
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| Author: | jacmifish [ Mon Apr 09, 2018 8:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
K. I got this to 104. Going to see about clearances tomorrow.. |
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| Author: | jacmifish [ Tue Apr 10, 2018 8:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
I ive checked cylinder number 1 with modeling clay. I honestly cant by looking at it tell if it touched it. The clay is about 1/4" thick and i revolved the motor twice. I could feel slightly more resistance when the valves where opening but maybe that was the valve spring. Before: https://photos.app.goo.gl/KW1lMzJZzMxKO7x73 after: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9QsfxreWCfhDyS0x1 Should i try it again but maybe form it a bit more square? |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Wed Apr 11, 2018 5:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
It may not touch with that thickness. It seems you are good to go. Lou |
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| Author: | jacmifish [ Wed Apr 11, 2018 8:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
Quote: It may not touch with that thickness. It seems you are good to go.
That's what I was thinking.Lou I've got the replacement bolts in and installed. I ended up installing them at 55 lbft. Should have a few things coming in Friday or Saturday then I hope to have everything back together by Sunday. Something I noticed about the sprocket to cam gear is that the sprocket sits proud almost a 1/16" (I think). I measured with calipers from the block to the chain on both and 1/16 was the difference. Is that pretty normal? I feel that I've bottomed the sprocket out. I'm figuring its not ideal but with the slop in the chain it wont matter. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Apr 12, 2018 3:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
Head bolts? I would not even start the car unless they were torqued to 65 ft-lbs, and personally I have never run them below 70. I have seen that offset, but am not sure if it's w/in factory spec or not. IIRC, on one motor is quite a lot and I did some shimming or milling to line things up better. Can't recall... Lou |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Apr 12, 2018 3:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
Quote: Head bolts? I would not even start the car unless they were torqued to 65 ft-lbs, and personally I have never run them below 70.
I have seen that offset, but am not sure if it's w/in factory spec or not. IIRC, on one motor it was quite a lot and I did some shimming or milling to line things up better. Can't recall... Lou |
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| Author: | jacmifish [ Thu Apr 12, 2018 4:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
Quote: Head bolts? I would not even start the car unless they were torqued to 65 ft-lbs, and personally I have never run them below 70.
Nope. I was referring to replacement rod bolts. Good to know about the head bolts though.I have seen that offset, but am not sure if it's w/in factory spec or not. IIRC, on one motor is quite a lot and I did some shimming or milling to line things up better. Can't recall... Lou Hummm. Maybe ill pull it one more time and look behind it for hang ups. |
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| Author: | SlantSteve [ Thu Apr 12, 2018 11:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
You must torque the rod bolts to the exact spec they did when they were honed to size. Different torque specs will alter the bearing bore dimensions to some extent. Did you fit new bearings? |
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| Author: | jacmifish [ Sat Jan 05, 2019 5:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Replacing connecting rods |
Been a while since I last posted... I moved from Tampa to Jacksonville. Had to rush and slam the motor in the car but I've got it running again. Only issue I've noticed so far is leaking around certain parts of the pan. Hopefully I don't have to pull it again for that... I'm currently adjusting the timing and fuel. My wideband is currently not working so I'm waiting for a part to get the AFR right but it seems to be running fat on idle. https://photos.app.goo.gl/XMvTEhhMaXmYnbPW8 When I step the RPM up it gets to a point where its stepping between two portions of a timing map. That will be smoothed out. The idle is at about 15 BTDC. |
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