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Distributor Recurve - pics
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7954		 Page 3 of 3
Author:  sixsignet [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Are these pics still available?
Great info here, but it would be even better if the pic links were still good.
I have the same dist from Rolik, but I am afraid to start taking it apart without knowing what I'm getting into.
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 1:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
don't be affraid of taknif appart your rolik's slant6 dist. I've done like 3 or 4 recurves on brand new repro dists I got from him and those babies are great. Nice quality repro! they even have the eccentric pin for regulating the springs, way better than the old style tabs
Author:  sixsignet [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 2:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
I was hoping Slant Cecil was still around and could fix those broken links in his initial post.

How did you use those eccentric pins?
Did you have to add a light spring and adjust length of of the loop on the heavy spring as discussed here, or were you able to accomplish the same thing with the eccentrics?

This is a repro distributor? I thought it was NOS.
Author:  Dartvader [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 3:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ten degrees initial timing gives my slant the best throttle response, which I assume also translates into efficient start up from a dead stop, as in stop and go driving, which should help the mileage some. Because of the trubo on my engine, I had to limit the total to 25 degrees., because of preignition. To address the mileage concern, put a vacuum advance unit with more advance in it.. I have an 11 degree unit, which translates to 22 degrees at the crank. The shop manual specifies a range of 11 to 14 degrees mechanical advance for stock centrifigal advance, at the distributor. This would translate to 22-28 at the crank.
Author:  sixsignet [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 3:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
OK.
I got it apart.
The weights say 1889264
The part referred to as the governor in Dutra's article below says 15L
The vacuum adv says 8.5R

Now I just need to find someone (who won't charge an arm and a leg) who can braze/weld/solder some kind of soft alloy that I can file down by hand.

I can't see Cecil's pics, but I assume I need to file the brazed material so it is flush with the slotted plate.

I got no grinder and no welding stuff.

http://www.dutra.org/doug/draft-webpage ... ibutor.htm
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 5:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
This is a repro distributor? I thought it was NOS.
They are NOS.
Author:  Dart270 [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
Vader,

It sounds like you are getting closer. 10 deg initial works well on a Slant, and 25 total mech is probably even a little much for your application. 22 crank deg of vacuum adv will be great.

The later 70s dists had a setup more similar to this, with less mech total advance than the early ones, which suck.

Lou
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 8:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
This is a repro distributor? I thought it was NOS.
They are NOS.
they're repro, some components are NOS but I.E. casing is repro, cap is repro, rotor is a bad piece of repro, with all the P/N cleverly copied. Shafts, weights, pickup, etc are NOS.

All of them are 15L govnor (straight radial slots, not slanted) and 8.5R vac can.

You can use epoxy mixed with aluminum or brass filing to reduce mech advance travel.

Here are some pix of my work on some distributer (this ain't rolik's)

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

I did several recurves, this being my favorites:

15 initial with 28 total initial plus mech, 8.5 vac can stiffed up 5 turns CCW
(this' the one I'm using now, works great) reduced loop on the heavy spring.
12 initial 30 total Initial plus mech, 11 vac can stiffed up 3 turns, one light spring another lighter than heavy stock but still with loop end
14 initial 32 total, 4 vac can all the way CW, 2 ligt-light and I mean LIGHT springs. (I had pinging over 75MPH with this curve) this ain't no favorite at all, car was nice unless you keep in away from excessive load or rpm range.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 8:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
This is a repro distributor? I thought it was NOS.
They are NOS.
they're repro, some components are NOS but I.E. casing is repro, cap is repro, rotor is a bad piece of repro, with all the P/N cleverly copied. Shafts, weights, pickup, etc are NOS.
Interesting -- the one I got was NOS, no repro parts at all. Maybe he ran out of those.
Quote:
All of them are 15L govnor (straight radial slots, not slanted)
None of the North American Chrysler-built distributors had slanted slots.
Author:  sixsignet [ Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
Juan-
The first recurve formula you list -

" 15 initial with 28 total initial plus mech, 8.5 vac can stiffed up 5 turns CCW
(this' the one I'm using now, works great) reduced loop on the heavy spring. "

-did you use the original light spring without modifying it?


ps - thanks for the pictures and info.
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:04 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Interesting -- the one I got was NOS, no repro parts at all. Maybe he ran out of those.
may be, I got 3 dists from him, all of them containing some very well repro components... I take that you'd noticed if yours has some repro part, so maybe he ran out of all original units or maybe he just screwed me 'cuz I'm far away. The muthafcker didn't leave me no feedback at ebay and I paid lighning fast...
Quote:
None of the North American Chrysler-built distributors had slanted slots.
Interesting... so I take that's another argentinian reversion like holleys 1922?? ... I don not know why you haven't got these slanted slots govnors, they greatly reduce friction when opening and closing. great for fast curves and racing setups.
Author:  argentina-slantsixer [ Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:13 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Juan-
The first recurve formula you list -

" 15 initial with 28 total initial plus mech, 8.5 vac can stiffed up 5 turns CCW
(this' the one I'm using now, works great) reduced loop on the heavy spring. "

-did you use the original light spring without modifying it?


ps - thanks for the pictures and info.
Hey sixsignet

I used the stock light spring with the post at about 1/4 of its total travel and I reduced the loop on the red one to let's say 1/4" (If your rolik has the same spring I have on mine it would be a very long loop end red one) and adjusted that post on 7/8 travel (almost way out) Keep in mind that for building a 7R govnor you'll have almost no travel at all, I don't recall my #'s but it will have like 2.5 mm, maybe 3 tops. I dialed in a curve that's fast opening from 15 to 24, keeping the last 4 degrees from coming untill the vac pod's off. I get nice launchs, good acceleration all over the range, good mileage if my right foot behaves. Hpefully you'll like this curve.
I'm gonna take a pic of the tool I made for working on the eccentric spring posts, it allows me to work on that w/o taking out the reluctor and pickup plate. I'll post that tonite
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:29 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
Interesting -- the one I got was NOS, no repro parts at all. Maybe he ran out of those.
may be, I got 3 dists from him, all of them containing some very well repro components... I take that you'd noticed if yours has some repro part
Probably so, since I'm a complete parts geek (How much of a parts geek? Well, I went out of my way to get an original example of the first 1962 and final 1987 variants of the Chrysler gear-reduction starter...for no good reason other than that I am a geek.) Didn't see anything in my Rolik distributor that made me go "Huh?".
Quote:
The muthafcker didn't leave me no feedback at ebay and I paid lighning fast...
Yeah, he's not the friendliest or most communicative, is he.
Quote:
None of the North American Chrysler-built distributors had slanted slots.
Interesting... so I take that's another argentinian reversion like holleys 1922??[/quote]

Probably. There have been lots of local/regional build variants like this.
Quote:
I don not know why you haven't got these slanted slots govnors, they greatly reduce friction when opening and closing. great for fast curves and racing setups.
Those dweebs should have asked the two of us (and paid us a lot of money)! :-)
Author:  Eric W [ Fri Apr 08, 2005 12:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have an 11L (on top, stamped 11R on bottem) governer. I used a heavy light spring (it was green) and a short heavy spring in it. I have (according to my dial back timing light) 20* mechanical advance, 37 total with vacuum advance hooked up (stamped 8.5 on pod arm). Also adjusted the vacuum can 3 turns CCW so that it comes on later. Timed to 8BTDC, my heavy 'ol Satellite seems to like it, more so at high speeds than acceloration. I'm going to have to try your formula Juan. I'll have to braze my extra 15R governer first to get the 7 (Looks like almost half of the slots! :shock: ) first though. Thanks for taking the time to show us.
Author:  Dartvader [ Fri Apr 08, 2005 7:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Six signet, You do not need a grinder to do this work. Go to the hardware store and buy a chain saw sharpening file. It is a round one that is the perfect size. I also have a small square one that I used to smooth up the sides, but the end of the hole can be left rounded if you like. Just as long as it does not get hung up on the weight pins. I took my governor to a friend who does exhaust work and he just put a spot of weld in the hole. It did not look pretty at first, but by the time I spent an hour filing on it, it looked quite nice. This is a wonderful post that has been going on for ages. When it first started, I knew nothing about this, and since then I have learned how to take care of this phase of the engine management. It is a subject that should not scare people away, and yet can intimidate since you can;t see down inside the dist. when it is all together. There is a fear that things might come flying out, and never go back together.

Might I suggest that if you have more than one dist, play with a spare first, and get your feet wet with one that won't leave you immobile if it takes awhile to get it back together. Also, set up several with different curves, and try them out and see which one you like, rather than taking the same one out and changing it repeatedly.
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