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| HEI electronic ignition discussion https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28732 |
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| Author: | nzpete [ Sat Jun 28, 2014 8:02 pm ] |
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Thanks, I’m pretty sure mine is cool enough then. I over did the earths / connections / power supply, so I don’t think it is that. Maybe the interference is something I need to look into. I guess that will be if the pickup wires from the dissy to the module are close to something like a HT lead? If I pull one lead at a time while running, to see if the missing/uneven running is associated with a certain cylinder, will this damage the system? Is there a way to close down the spark individually on each cylinder? |
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| Author: | SlantSteve [ Sat Jun 28, 2014 9:26 pm ] |
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There is no way to shut down one cylinder at a time and be very careful playing with leads while it's running....they don't call it ."High Energy Ignition" for nothing! Check for vacuum leaks,like brake boosters,also too tight valve clearances can make the idle a bit rough. |
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| Author: | nzpete [ Sun Jun 29, 2014 3:34 am ] |
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I’ve blocked off brake booster and doubled checked all potential vacuum leaks. From the exhaust note it sounds like it is a valve problem, but I can’t pick it on a compression check, or vacuum gauge. Just trying to make sure it is nothing else before i pull the head. So to find out if it is just an individual cylinder causing the issue, how is the best way to do this? I suppose if I mount a spark plug somewhere, and individually move the HT lead from each cylinder to this, so ignition still has somewhere to deliver the spark to, I will be able to tell which cylinder is causing the issue, or whether it is across the board. If it is across the board, I doubt it will be internal engine issue, but if it is only one cylinder causing the odd firing then it will give me a better idea where to look at the ignition or perhaps valve issue. This issue isn’t all the time. Sometimes it runs as even as. |
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| Author: | NCDemon1971 [ Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:40 pm ] |
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I'm having an issue with my HEI conversion. Should the distributor side of the module show any power with the key on or just when turning the engine over? The coil side shows power but wasn't sure of the proper way to test the distributor side. Wasn't getting it to crank yesterday... |
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| Author: | oldskoolracer [ Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:44 pm ] |
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Quote: I'm having an issue with my HEI conversion. Should the distributor side of the module show any power with the key on or just when turning the engine over?
The distributor will produce a very small power signal when its spinning (running or cranking)... What is the issue that you are having?
The coil side shows power but wasn't sure of the proper way to test the distributor side. Wasn't getting it to crank yesterday... |
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| Author: | NCDemon1971 [ Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:02 pm ] |
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Quote: Quote: I'm having an issue with my HEI conversion. Should the distributor side of the module show any power with the key on or just when turning the engine over?
The distributor will produce a very small power signal when its spinning (running or cranking)... What is the issue that you are having?The coil side shows power but wasn't sure of the proper way to test the distributor side. Wasn't getting it to crank yesterday... |
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| Author: | oldskoolracer [ Sat Oct 04, 2014 4:24 pm ] |
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Quote: Quote: Quote: I'm having an issue with my HEI conversion. Should the distributor side of the module show any power with the key on or just when turning the engine over?
The distributor will produce a very small power signal when its spinning (running or cranking)... What is the issue that you are having?The coil side shows power but wasn't sure of the proper way to test the distributor side. Wasn't getting it to crank yesterday... If no spark is presesnt: Make sure the (b) terminal on the module and the (+) on the coil show power during cranking... If there is power, double check the wires from the dist to module and make sure theyre not backwards... If theres no power, find the factory wire that supplied voltage during cranking and add it to your (B) or (+) terminal as well... If all that checks fine, then I would pull the dist and get an ammeter and make sure the pick-up inside the dist is showing a signal when spun by hand... (You can build the whole system and test it on a bench this way as well) |
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| Author: | killnine [ Tue Oct 07, 2014 7:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | uh oh, no start |
So I got all excited and replaced my mopar blue box with a standard lx301. Since I already have a bypassed ballast, relay switched ignition, and a high voltage coil, along with a decent distributor, this should really just be a swap in wiring the module instead of the box. I wired it up, checked and double checked, and there just isn't any starting it. It cranks great. I grounded the bolt on the left side (looking at it with the convex side down) by putting a direct ground at the head of the bolt. Is there any way to verify the module at all? I pretty much have to assume standard sent me junk if not. In that case I'll have to run to the parts store and buy some cheap crap to replace it. I would rather not rewire the mopar ecu back in. |
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| Author: | oldskoolracer [ Wed Oct 08, 2014 9:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: uh oh, no start |
Quote: So I got all excited and replaced my mopar blue box with a standard lx301. Since I already have a bypassed ballast, relay switched ignition, and a high voltage coil, along with a decent distributor, this should really just be a swap in wiring the module instead of the box. I wired it up, checked and double checked, and there just isn't any starting it. It cranks great. I grounded the bolt on the left side (looking at it with the convex side down) by putting a direct ground at the head of the bolt. Is there any way to verify the module at all? I pretty much have to assume standard sent me junk if not. In that case I'll have to run to the parts store and buy some cheap crap to replace it. I would rather not rewire the mopar ecu back in.
Im not 100% following you on convex side down, but one of the two holes will have a wide flange on it, attach the ground to that one... Id imagine most auto part store SHOULD have the machine to test the module for you... Two things to check: 1) Make sure there is power to the coil/module WHILE CRANKING and not just in the "on" position, 2) try reversing the two wires from the dist to module, if theyre backwards it probably wont fire... |
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| Author: | WagonsRcool [ Wed Oct 08, 2014 10:01 pm ] |
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Quote: Two things to check: 1) Make sure there is power to the coil/module WHILE CRANKING and not just in the "on" position, 2) try reversing the two wires from the dist to module, if theyre backwards it probably wont fire...
x2- I'm just doing some testing right now on HEI, & it appears that the module needs the correct polarity from the dist pickup in order to work properly.
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| Author: | killnine [ Thu Oct 09, 2014 7:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: uh oh, no start |
Quote: Quote: So I got all excited and replaced my mopar blue box with a standard lx301. Since I already have a bypassed ballast, relay switched ignition, and a high voltage coil, along with a decent distributor, this should really just be a swap in wiring the module instead of the box. I wired it up, checked and double checked, and there just isn't any starting it. It cranks great. I grounded the bolt on the left side (looking at it with the convex side down) by putting a direct ground at the head of the bolt. Is there any way to verify the module at all? I pretty much have to assume standard sent me junk if not. In that case I'll have to run to the parts store and buy some cheap crap to replace it. I would rather not rewire the mopar ecu back in.
Im not 100% following you on convex side down, but one of the two holes will have a wide flange on it, attach the ground to that one... Id imagine most auto part store SHOULD have the machine to test the module for you... Two things to check: 1) Make sure there is power to the coil/module WHILE CRANKING and not just in the "on" position, 2) try reversing the two wires from the dist to module, if theyre backwards it probably wont fire... |
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| Author: | killnine [ Fri Oct 10, 2014 8:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | HEI module + what coil? |
So I understand that in general the best coil to use with an HEI module is going to be an e-core type coil. I also understand that most e-core coils are going to have maybe a .5 ohm or approximate resistance. I also know that the inductance is an important factor. That being said, I want to understand why, and the variables. Before I thew in the HEI module, I was using a Pertronix HV e-core type coil, which has a 3ohm resistance. Although it is advertised as being able to provide something like 60,000 volts, and is said to be an e-core type, wouldn't the 3ohm resistance still cause it to be a low performer as far as delivering current is concerned? I thought I was having trouble with that coil, so I swapped in a 1.5 ohm Pertronix canister type. It is not any sort of e-core, and is more like a standard coil but with slightly higher voltage capabilities. Is this good enough for a slant six to increase the spark gap, or if I am going to be making improvements, should I really look for an e-core type? Should I swap the Pertronix e-core back in? Should I ditch both of these, because of their resistance, and look for something else? Thanks everyone, just trying to understand my options and get the best out of my engine. |
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| Author: | oldskoolracer [ Fri Oct 10, 2014 10:05 am ] |
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The e-core are very popular because they have a very effective winding design wich allows them to charge very fast and discharge very fast with a powerful spark. Most aftermarket ones have a real fancy aluminum case that dissipates heat extremely well.... As far as resistance values... Its tricky because it mainly depends on the ignition driver (points, electronic, high energy, CD, etc...) Lower OHM coils tend to perform better, but at the cost of pushing the driver as hard as it can. Thankfully, coil manufactures can use an endless number of winding design for almost any application. For our applications, any coil with a low primary resistance will be just fine, doesnt matter if it a canister or ane-core. The HEI coils are rated between .3x ohm- .8x ohm, you can run one with a higher value but risk burning out the coil, or a lower value wich could damage the HEI module... A high-rev application, or if your running a CDI box (MSD, Accel, MAllory, etc..) stick to a newer style e-core, they will surive alot longer and produce a much more powerful and accurate spark. Also dont forget to open that plug gap up to about .045-.050 |
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| Author: | killnine [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 3:55 pm ] |
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Yeah that all makes sense to me. So much so that I bought a new pertronix HC coil, that is .03 ohms I believe. Wired it up exactly right, checked it over about 15 times. I also put magnacor wires on it, which were tested last night with my old pertronix 1.5 ohm canister coil, and worked well. Today, after the new coil, no start. It has voltage, and the resistance on the primaries reads correctly, and the resistance from primary to secondary is about 7k which checks out with the specs on the coil. I also gapped the plugs to .045 last night, before I tested with the old coil. Of course, it just won't start. I'm really starting to get upset. Is current product QC really this bad? Just because I am sure someone will ask, the ignition switch is triggering a relay, which is sending full voltage to the coil on the + terminal, which is also connected to the B terminal on the module. C terminal is connected to - on the coil, along with my tach wire. The two dizzy wires are connected to the other side of the module, and if I flip those it becomes quite obviously backwards when it runs, so they are where they should be I believe. I did not move them from where they were when it last ran on the old coil. I'm currently charging the battery just in case it's a little low. |
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| Author: | oldskoolracer [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 4:21 pm ] |
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When I first did mine I had a similar little gremlin taunting me as well... There were several times it left me stranded just cranking and cranking... Still to this day I really dont know what I did exactly to fix it? I replaced the module a few times even though they tested good (even used one on my buddy datsun when I converted it to HEI), and it ran for a couple days then back to no start... One was an unknown used module, one LX301T (economy line), one LX301, and the one that has lasted was from MSD, but I also replaced the coil to a Ford "TFI" coil wich has a primary resistance of about .5X ohms (the old one was an ACCEL "super stock"... Once what ever bug was there got worked out I havnt had an issue since... Mine is also powered off a relay, but pulls its (+) straight off the alternator and the "switched" is from an extra fuse panel I installed... I reconnected the factory "start" wire to the module (+) as well and its the only original wire used... I also added a ground wire straight from the battery to the bracket the module mounts to. Hope you get it figured out, I definately know your frustration! |
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