The only wires you'll have going to the negative terminal of the coil will be the wires to the HEI module, and if you have one, the tach. You'd remove the wire from the stock computer.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Good info...

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1969-1/2 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-spd, Dana 60)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (4-spd, 8.75")
1973 Plymouth Duster (225, auto, 8.25")
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 QC 2wd (5.9L, auto, Dana 60)

Would a stock distributor on a '83 slant6 work w/this mod, or would an earlier distributor be nessasary. This D150 has lean burn and I have never liked this set up. thks

It would run, but you would not have any advance. The LB computer handles the advance, not the distributer. You should use an earlier distributer with centrifical, and vaccum adance. Also most of the lean burn carbs have an electrical mixture control, that is computer controled, and no ported vacumm connection for the distributer. It would be much better to use an earlier carb, also.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks for the reply. It currently has a holley 64-1590 carb on top of an aluminum intake. Do you think this carb will go well w/the old distribitor? I'm pretty sure it's not OE, but a Carter reman. thks

Thanks for the link Dan. I am still not smart enough to figure out how to replace the MSD with the HEI. I can see how to replace the Mopar electronic unit, but with the ECu inbetween the ignition and the distributor, the hookups are not clear to me. There is a white wire on the MDS which connects to a trigger wire from the ECU. The MSD hooks up to the coil and B+ similarly to the HEI, but there are two distributor connections on the HEI, and I have only one trigger wire from the ECU. I will study the ECU manual, ( for all it is worth) and see if I can figure this out. The combo coil and HEI mount sounds like maybe the way to go.

AFter reading both your and Rocks recent posts, it sounds like maybe I could start with a new Blaster coil. That would be the cheapest partI could throw at it, and one that I probably need anyway.

Sam

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My Slant has the Orange box et al as a replacement for the mouse gnawed upon Lean Burn that once lit the fires. The MOPAR stuff works just fine, but I am wondering if you can feel the difference in the HEI setup (as compared to an new Orange box, distributor, coils, etc from Chrysler). I run a Blaster 2 coil with the Orange Box and I can't say that the ignition has done anything other than work fine.

What is the experience of the folks out there that have done the HEI swap? I get the idea that nobody has done the swap from a Orange Box to HEI just for the sake of "performance", rather it seems that this change is done as a cost savings measure, points change over, or repair that is associated with greater reliability, etc.

Thoughts, comments, etc? I have trolled through all the posts on this and everyone seems happy with it--just wondering if someone had done a "cook-off" so to speak on the seat of the pants feeling comparing MOPAR electronic ignition to Chevy HEI. [/i]

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Slanted D150

HEI is a stronger ignition system, which lets you open the plug gaps for better driveability, performance, and MPGs. Yes, it can be felt and/or measured in some cases, though the improvement perceptible without measurement equipment is generally more along the lines of better starting and idling rather than faster acceleration.

Also, the Chrysler-made ECUs (orange or any other color) have had very inconsistent, generally poor quality for the last ten years or so, since production was moved to Guess Where. It's still possible for the time being to buy a good Chrysler-style ECU if you get a Standard-BlueStreak or an Echlin, so this isn't really a dealbreaker, just a point to be aware of.

Also, the HEI eliminates the primary failure point in the Mopar system (the ballast resistor).

Outside of that, nobody will argue that the Mopar system is a bad one. It's not. It works fine. It's just the HEI works better.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan--good to know info. I figure that the difference between points and electronic ignition is something you can feel, the diff between HEI and MOPAR appears to be bit more nuanced and subtle. I imagine the real exception is in the wallet, the "General's" parts are almost always less expensive than the rest of the crowd...

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Slanted D150

Hello,
So after reading and reading about this HEI conversion, multipule posts and sites, I tried it on my 87 D100. It seemed simple enough.
First off on the truck I have been running points with and older carb and dual exhaust. So I have bypassed a lot of the computer crap. It runs fine.
Now, after getting the 4 pin and having an electronic dist. laying around that I know works. I wired it all up and go to crank and nothing happens except the starter. So I switch the wires and still nothing.
I'm pretty sure it was a lean burn truck. It had a dist. with wires coming out on both sides (2 wires on one side a 3 on the other.) I'm wondering if there is a resistor hidden somewhere, because I've looked and can't find anything. I kept the same coil that had always been on there with the lean-burn and the points. I don't care if it's not the best. I will change that later if needed. I just want it to fire with the HEI.
Anyways I switched back to the points so I can drive it again and it's fine.

I do want the HEI, any help?
Thanks

You need a distributor with two (only two) wires. The 4-wire distributor will not work correctly for what you're trying to do, and even if you could make it work, the truck would run poorly since the 4-wire distributors have no advance mechanism.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I said "It had"...the electronic one I have that I know works is only 2 wires

Also just took a meter to all the points on the module and coil. It's showing 11.80-12.40 when it's switched to on.

The above post is my son and I have been trying to help him on this issue.
We have 12 volts to all four pins on the module when the key is on, when you try and start it, no fire out of the coil wire.
The coil is good, the distributor is good and the wires are good.
The coil is running on the points set up fine, it is the same one that was on the lean burn set up. I have put the distributor in my T bucket and it fired right up.
The module is a new one right out of the box.
Any suggestions as to what to look for? We have looked through all of the tech articles on this and have found no help, this thing should run.
Robert

I just purchased all the things needed to convert to HEI. What connects to where, on the GM coil?

this one?

I am in process of gathering the parts needed to complete the HEI conversion on my 83 Dodge pickup.

the distributor in that truck does not have a vaccum advance, so a replacement is first on the list
I have found that Laysons has a remanufactured vaccum advance distributor with what is said to be a Chrysler high performance advance curve, for $142.95 is that worth the $, I easily found an Autozone remanufactured unit with vaccum advance for around $60.00
also the Autozone listing had two varieties with vaccum advance, with single and with dual pick up, which one is recommended?

thanks