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Cast Crank in a Forged Block = "Zing"
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41320		 Page 4 of 4
Author:  Sam Powell [ Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
Don't they look nice when you are first installing them.

Sam
Author:  Doc [ Tue Dec 21, 2010 10:06 am ]
Post subject: 
This engine looks pretty nice in there even if we did not spend a lot of time re-painting & cleaning stuff.

We had a bit of "drama" when I saw a good size spot of oil under the engine every time we parked the car, that turned-out to be a loose oil pan drain plug. :roll: :D

More work... the damper / pulley had a slight wobble to it.
As luck would have it, we were able to change it with-out pulling the radiator & fan. :shock: 8)

So now we have to deal with the chassis vibration... you currently feel everything this engine is doing... it's pretty harsh. (that may-be a good thing - tends to keep you conservative on the RPMs)
Looking at it last night, there is a weld spot on the oil pan, (Buster's repaired pan) and that spot is touching the K-frame so we need to grind it back or raise the engine some, to see if that helps...

Still need to do a final head retorque and valve adjust... then review the distributor curve... I think this engine will need a different curve, different then the "torquer" engine's distributor set-up, that we just "recycled" back into Zing.
DD

Image
Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue Dec 21, 2010 2:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Doug,

I once installed a stock passenger's side mount upside down and the car vibrated like mad. I think you'll tire of the poly mount quickly. My Barracuda will use stock mounts with an add-on restraint.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Dec 21, 2010 3:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have never dealt with poly engine mounts, but I have had poly tranny mounts - One thing I did notice when installing new rubber mounts is that sometimes they transmit a lot of noise when they are new but once they "break in" they tend to be more quiet.

my$.02


Greg
Author:  Volare4life [ Tue Dec 21, 2010 7:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
doug welcome to my world, all 3 of my mounts are welded around the edges, center busted rubber burned out and some flexane 93 poly rubber poured in its place......... I FEEL EVERYTHING lol


-Mike
Author:  Supercharged SL6 [ Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Closed Chamber Head
In the picture of block & head and in your specs it appears that you made the head closed chamber I assume you angle milled the head and cut over .200 off the manifold side will these heads take that much if you do a angle cut. You also said you are at 54cc head volume did you have to rework the chamber to get that much volume I figure you would be in the upper 40cc range with out reworking chamber
Author:  Doc [ Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:18 am ]
Post subject: 
The closed chamber head on the Zing engine is a Chrysler prototype head, that never made it into production.
DD

Image
Author:  Dart270 [ Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:39 am ]
Post subject: 
Doug, you sneaky guy...

Lou
Author:  Reed [ Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:53 am ]
Post subject: 
:shock: Where does he find this stuff....
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:45 am ]
Post subject: 
Doc,

Can we come close to the same thing by cutting a production head chamber side on an angle, then cutting the manifold side to compensate to keep the intake level?

If so, how much would we have to trim off?

and would it cause much of a problem with push rod length?
Author:  Doc [ Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:15 am ]
Post subject: 
Getting some quench zone has been done by angle-milling the head but doing that is not ideal for a a number of reasons.
-Puts angle on the bolts / studs.
-Thin deck weakens the head.
-Changes the angle of the manifold and parts that bolt to them.
-Small combustion chamber.
-Shorter pushrods will likely be needed.

If you want to do this, it is best to start with a 60-67 head, seeing that the roof of the chamber in the quench area, is closer to the head's deck surface.
DD
Author:  Wizard [ Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:52 am ]
Post subject:  Combustion chamber shapes.
I wanted to ask your knowledge on combustion chamber shape, head from carb 2.2 is bathtub shaped vs this Doc's D shaped prototype head. How is this bathtub shape work out for me?

I have to recycle the head for rebuilt 2.5L engine and still use carb for budget reasons.

Cheers, Wizard
Author:  Doc [ Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:49 am ]
Post subject:  Up-date Time...
It has been a few months since we installed this engine in the Dacuda... the engine now has a few thousand miles on it and over-all, it runs pretty good.

Good oil pressure and no funny bottom end noises tells me that increasing the connecting rod side clearances has solved the issue we had with Buster 1.0

Two concerns I have with this new engine: 1) it has a minor oil leak I need to track down and fix.

2) The cam is mild... and set in a way that produces good mid range power but it's not real good right off idle or in the higher RPM range.
I think I will try putting a little more advance into the cam timing, to see if the power gets better "off idle".
DD
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Combustion chamber shapes.
Quote:
I wanted to ask your knowledge on combustion chamber shape, head from carb 2.2 is bathtub shaped vs this Doc's D shaped prototype head. How is this bathtub shape work out for me?

I have to recycle the head for rebuilt 2.5L engine and still use carb for budget reasons.

Cheers, Wizard
You'll get better quality info over on www.turbododge.com (the 2.2/2.5 forums -- there's a subforum for carb/TBI nonturbo questions) but AFAIR the later EFI head such as you have from a 2.5 is better than the ealrier bathtub unit, so go ahead and do your swap.
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