I re did dans diagram to how i did my set up. If you want some pics of my set up i am glad to share them!
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| Tearin' out the Lean Burn - Gots some questions... https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42522 |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:57 pm ] |
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The last time I checked one, I used a multimeter, stuck one end of each probe into one of the terminals on the plug, and spun the shaft watching if the multimeter registered a voltage. I think I had it on the lowest setting. Consult your factory service manual for the correct tedt procedure. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:01 am ] |
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According to my 1984 Dodge Van FSM, to test the pickup coil in the distributor you disconnect the leads and measure the resistance. The resistance should be between 150 and 900 OHMs. You can also check if the pickup coil is shorted by testing each lead of the pickup for a short to ground. To test for this, insert one lead of the ohmmeter into one pickup lead and ground the other ohmmeter lead. |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Mon Dec 05, 2011 9:16 am ] |
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Quote: According to my 1984 Dodge Van FSM, to test the pickup coil in the distributor you disconnect the leads and measure the resistance. The resistance should be between 150 and 900 OHMs.
This is correct, UP TO A POINT. The pickup coil can check good, checking that way, but still not have a correct output. I have seen the air gap too large, and either no spark, or a spark on some but not all cylenders. I have a tester that blinks LED lights as you crank the engine, but it is no longer available (much more expensive ones are). The best way is to remove the distributer, Check the air gap,with a brass feeler gauge, and spin it by hand while have a milivolt meter connected the the leads. If you get a volt reading it is good.
You can also check if the pickup coil is shorted by testing each lead of the pick for a short to ground. To test for this, insert one lead of the ohmmeter into one pickup lead and ground the other ohmmeter lead. |
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| Author: | Ross [ Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:45 pm ] |
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I re did dans diagram to how i did my set up. If you want some pics of my set up i am glad to share them!
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| Author: | Rob Simmons [ Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | How time flies... NOT! |
Well, well, well,... I started this HEI Swap back in November 2010 and the truck hasn't run since...  The other day as I was desperately trying to get GodsRods Duster II started in preparation for the Knoxville race, I pulled the HEI module and MSD Blaster II coil out of the truck...  (The issue with the Duster wound up being a bad wire connector and had nothing to do with the module or coil... )Anywho... My son CJ (11) and I cleaned up the garage last weekend and we came across the Mallory Dual Point distributor I swapped out of my Dart in favor of the Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition set up... So, I'm thinking about simply swapping this '83 D150 from Lean Burn (long gone) to HEI (never got it started) to Dual Point!  Now I just need to figure out the wiring and find a ballast resistor to see if THIS method works for me...  (I'll do the tests mentioned above while I'm at it.  )
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:46 am ] |
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Why would you want to double your trouble? Does the mallory dist have a vacuum advance unit? If not your fuel milage will suck. Using this distributer will require points replacement, at 4 times the price (2 sets at much more money, each) of the a mopar dist. Plus they would have to be ordered. There is no upside to doing this. Get the HEI working. (after finishing one race car). |
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| Author: | Rob Simmons [ Mon Aug 13, 2012 7:58 am ] |
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It ain't dublin' my trouble if the thing ain't runnin' no how! I'm gonna put the HIE schtuff back in it and run those next couple tests mentioned above. I just figgered I could git it runnin' with the dual point distributor real quick. I don't plan to keep the truck at this point. I just want it gone and I can obviously sell it for more running than not running. |
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