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1960 Dart Seneca
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43085		 Page 4 of 6
Author:  KenUSA [ Thu May 26, 2011 3:18 am ]
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Hi Josh
Battery Relo kit 135.00
Author:  KenUSA [ Sun May 29, 2011 8:17 pm ]
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Installed wideband and boost gauge on A pillar. Good location, easy to read. The 500CFM Holley works well with standard jets at idle, goes rich at higher RPM. It is very driveable- no bog or hesitation. Hard acceleration from all RPM up to WOT. I may restrict the air bleeds a bit after turbo is installed, but for now I'm just going to drive it and learn.

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I also picked up some cheap Sun Pro gauges for tach, oil press, temp and volt. Black Mini tach on column about 10 o'clock. Chrome, white face mini triple gauge under dash probably mounted left of column so shifter isn't an obstruction. I may convert factory temp gauge to oil temp.
Author:  Joshie225 [ Mon May 30, 2011 12:30 am ]
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Sounds like you're making progress and enjoying yourself. How rich does it go and how high do you turn the engine to have it rich? If it's too rich it might want larger air bleeds when normally aspirated. Also, can you make it leaner by backing off the throttle to close the power valve?
Author:  KenUSA [ Mon May 30, 2011 4:45 am ]
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Hi Josh,
I'll have the tach installed today so I should be able to make some notes.
I've been using the "search" button here quite a bit, but there is no substitute for building it and trying it. :P
Author:  KenUSA [ Tue May 31, 2011 8:18 pm ]
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AFR gauge indicated mostly rich condition. I have a parts house nearby that stocks Holley parts so i decided to try smaller main jets.

Holley specs #73 mains as standard on 4412 carb. When I opened it up I found #74 from the factory. I tried #72 and noticed a difference in response but not so much on gauge, so I went down to #70. Gauge started to move toward 14.7 but not enough. I tried a # 64 next and BINGO! :D

14.7 at no/low load cruise. 13.9 hard acceleration/WOT.

50cc pump shot, stock cam-factory adjustment.

I LIKE IT!!!

I'm sure when the turbo goes on, I'll be playing some more, but I learned plenty.

Boost gauge connected to brake booster vacuum port on carb reads -11 at idle, -8 at low/no load cruise.

All in all I'm very happy with the 500 CFM 2 BBL.
Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue May 31, 2011 10:12 pm ]
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I find it a bit odd that you had to go all the way down to a 64 jet, but alright. Also, it should go richer than 13.9:1 when the power valve opens. So long as you're sure the wideband is reading properly I would start opening up the power valve channel restriction to get the WOT mixture close to 12.5:1. Vacuum secondary Holley 4bbls have a bigger mixture spread between the power valve open and closed. Maybe the 2bbls act more like the double pumpers in this regard. Double pumpers are typically rich on the main jets like you experienced.
Author:  KenUSA [ Wed Jun 01, 2011 3:01 am ]
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Josh,
The 350 Holley comes with a #61 jet, so I didn't think moving so far on the 500 was too much of a stretch. I'll try to pay close attention to it today to find the PV operation point. It has a 50 PV whereas the 350 comes with an 85.

My intent is to get the carb in the neighborhood, yet as close to "out of the box" as possible while NA, so I have a solid baseline to work from when the turbo goes on.

Please keep offering input, I need all the good info I can get.

Thanks,
Ken
Author:  Joshie225 [ Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:40 am ]
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You'll notice with all Holley carbs in the same family and carburetors in general is that a larger venturi is paired with a larger main jet. A larger venturi produces a weaker vacuum signal so a larger jet is needed to flow the same proportion of fuel.

13.9:1 A/F under heavy load will put a lot of heat into the engine. It will run fine lean, but thermal stress to things like exhaust valves and pistons will go up. With supercharging you add more heat from the added power produced/fuel burned and the hot intake charge. Thermal management becomes a real problem and if you get into detonation or pre-ignition then you have real problems.

Since you have your cruise A/F ratio dialed in I feel it's time to open the power valve channel restriction (PVCR) to get the power A/F ratio correct. The best carb guy I know contributes to the Innovate Motorsports forum. You can spend a lot of time reading over there.
Author:  KenUSA [ Wed Jun 01, 2011 5:15 pm ]
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OVERDRIVE TRANNY WORKS!!!

I wired the solenoid directly through a mushroom switch and manually locked in OD and a heretofore unknown element has proven to be functional.

At 65 MPH OD drops 1000RPM. Yee HAW!!! :lol:

Properly wired this will act as a six speed. DOUBLE Yee HAW!!!

And Its my Birthday. TRIPLE super secret DOUBLE Yee HAW!!!
Author:  KenUSA [ Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:10 am ]
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Cam specs

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Author:  KenUSA [ Sun Jun 05, 2011 5:14 am ]
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I wired the OD through a relay operated with a stick circuit and a pilot light on the dash. This set up currently does not use the governor or reverse lockout switch, nor does it cut ignition to assist upshift.

This is a good set-up for highway driving since I can shift into OD or downshift for passing manually, with a pilot light to remind me where I am.

To operate it as a split shift 6-speed or to avail myself of the automatic-like operation of clutch free shifting between 2 and 2-high in town requires a little work. (If pushing a button can ever really be called work) Unless I add some more wire as follows...

A second relay energized through the N.O. contacts of the first. The ground side of the second relay coil will be wired in series through a microswitch on the clutch pedal, the reverse lock-out switch and the 27MPH speed governor which switches to earth above 27MPH.

A toggle switch on the dash bypassing clutch microswitch will allow shifting from 2-high to 3 high without hitting 3 low on the way.
Author:  KenUSA [ Sun Jun 05, 2011 3:59 pm ]
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The three black pushbuttons where the auto trans delete is are from left to right: Windshield solvent pump, OD enable, with green pilot light above and OD disable.

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I did wire a second relay to interrupt the output of the first via the governor. The reverse lockout is a normally open (closed when in reverse) switch, so in order to use it as a cut out I will have to add yet another relay. I may find that this is an unnecessary precaution. Either way I have a switch for back-up lights. (the original buyer took a pass on ALL frills, like, seat belts, four way flashers, reverse lights, side view mirrors, radio, windshield washer pump, alternator upgrade, But the car has 2 horns a cigarette lighter and an ashtray in the back rest of the front seat.)

The OD works great as it is wired now. Split shift is a no go because high 2 and low 3 are so closely spaced.
Author:  KenUSA [ Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:11 pm ]
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This Dodge is really a good driver but to commute daily, I realized that a few "amenities" would help a lot.

Windshield solvent pump is a must. This kit was 18.00 at Advance auto. It came with 2 decent looking, highly functional nozzles, a couple of short pieces of tubing and couplings. The angle of the spray precluded me from using the factory cowl vent locations, so I drilled the hood.

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Tank and pump are late model Crown Vic from the boneyard- 10.00
Momentary contact pushbutton is from Radio Shack.

Other upgrades were a reproduction side view mirror, front disc brakes and a stereo (Supertuner w/remote and 2 deck mount 6x9s)

Next is an electric rear window defroster and a little research into a wiper delay.
Author:  wjajr [ Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:03 am ]
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I have installed an air fuel mixture gage on the Dart using a chrome housing similar to your three gage cluster. The first trip taken after installing it, granted the top was down & sun out, that flat chrome reflected the poisonous rays of the sun directly into my eyes, became an unbearable distraction while driving. I painted over the chrome matching the dash color, and now no longer see flashbulb spots before my eyes, and the after market look of the gage is toned down as well.
Author:  wjajr [ Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:06 am ]
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Ken:
Quote:
Next is an electric rear window defroster and a little research into a wiper delay.
You may need to upgrade alternator output, and wiring for defroster option.
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