Slant Six Forum
https://slantsix.org/forum/

Roller Cams, the other aluminum head thread
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47333
Page 4 of 6

Author:  Joshie225 [ Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:30 am ]
Post subject: 

My understanding is that roller lifters were first used for fuel economy reasons. Actually, that's not right. Packard and Buick among others used roller followers well before WWII. I think it got to the point that CAFE numbers were important enough to justify the additional cost of roller lifters. The zinc and phosphorous were taken out of oil later because it was poisoning catalytic converters and manufacturers were mandated to provide very long emissions warranties. It's not a problem to have those compounds in the oil if the engine isn't burning oil, but too many people are too lax on maintenance.

If we want a billet timing cover, actually a casting is fine, with the gerotor oil pump and a cam stop. Let's also have a removable section over the cam gear so we can change the installed centerline easily.

Author:  USAJon [ Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:28 pm ]
Post subject: 

DD ran a re-grind roller cam back in the day that was nitrated. he removed it when he found it flaking, on his cuda.

Author:  USAJon [ Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Fyi

http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/ ... shafts.pdf

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:13 pm ]
Post subject:  The ramp...

That's a good article, although I would add one more trick in the duration section. Most cams now have an .020 and an .050 duration...if you look at both durations between two cams they can "connect the dots" so to speak and help determine which cam has the steeper ramp if worried about the lobe opening profile and how fast you are looking to pop the valve off the seat and get it open.

-D.Idiot

Author:  CNC-Dude [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:50 pm ]
Post subject: 

Well I guess I will buy a stick of material this week and get started roughing out some blanks. One question, I am seeing a lot of what appears to be confusion on whether the rear cam journal should be drilled or grooved from another post regarding cam bearing interchange. I have a Purple Shaft cam as a model to work from and it is drilled thru the rear journal(don't know if its hydraulic or solid or if it really matters). So I guess the question is: Drill, not drill, or groove the rear journal.

Thanks.

Author:  Fopar [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

My understanding the grooved cams are for hydraulic and the drilled are for solid.

Richard

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:44 am ]
Post subject: 

I would recommend groove. Groove allows more oil the the upper valve train, and is easier to do. With drilling, the two holes have to be exactly right, so they line up with the holes in the cam bearing. I groove all my cams, and several new replacement cams I have seen are also grooved.

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 8:42 am ]
Post subject:  X2!!!

Quote:
I would recommend groove. Groove allows more oil the the upper valve train, and is easier to do. With drilling, the two holes have to be exactly right, so they line up with the holes in the cam bearing. I groove all my cams, and several new replacement cams I have seen are also grooved.

I would second that, it's a better option than hoping that the cam blank was drilled correctly or hopefully drilled all the way through.

-D.Idiot

Author:  CNC-Dude [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:59 am ]
Post subject: 

Ok guys thanks. I agree, grooving will be much easier than drilling.

Author:  Exner Geek [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 10:28 am ]
Post subject: 

Although the full groove is required with hydraulic lifters I believe you are better off with the metering holes with solids. The metering holes deliver more than enough oil to the rockers if the holes are drilled at the proper angle. Tom Drake and others had issues with the holes not lining up with the holes in the cam bearing but all the extra oil provided by the full groove just overloads the valve seals and increases windage losses when it drips back down. If you are going to invest $3000 in a valve train why not do it right? It is true than many billets now have the full groove just to simplify things but you can still find properly drilled blanks.

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:42 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Well I guess I will buy a stick of material this week and get started roughing out some blanks...
I do have 3 unmachined cast steel blanks you could machine, if you have time.
Again, getting a good quality gear generated on any SL6 cam is the current "challenge" I see.
DD

Image

Image

Author:  slantzilla [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:45 am ]
Post subject: 

Groove the journal and put a restrictor in the passage to the head?

Author:  CNC-Dude [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:01 pm ]
Post subject: 

The restrictor is a good solution, many 440's are done that way also.

Author:  CNC-Dude [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:04 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Quote:
Well I guess I will buy a stick of material this week and get started roughing out some blanks...
I do have 3 unmachined cast steel blanks you could machine, if you have time.
Again, getting a good quality gear generated on any SL6 cam is the current "challenge" I see.
DD

Image

Image
I think I have the gear hobbing issue resolved, am waiting to hear back from 3 different sources now to see what kind of quantities they want to have to do it. I can tackle your castings once I get that sorted out.

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:49 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
The restrictor is a good solution, many 440's are done that way also.
On my heads, I tap the oil passage, that comes up in the rear rocker stand. Then if I have too much oil, I can easily install a plug with a metering hole, by just removeing the rocker shaft. Havn't had to do a metering hole,yet.

Page 4 of 6 All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited
https://www.phpbb.com/