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| '77 D-100 stepside project - turbo planning! :D https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53114 |
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| Author: | dartsport76 [ Sat Dec 21, 2013 6:29 pm ] |
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Is the current paint not in good condition? To me, that color of green looks a lot like the synergy green camaros that are out. I like that and the black interior, but to each their own. I somewhat understand what you're saying, and I think it'll look pretty sharp! Best of luck! |
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| Author: | Wvbuzzmaster [ Thu Feb 06, 2014 3:52 pm ] |
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My coworker just bought a 1974 D100 and wants to lower it down a ways, not as low in the front, but the back looks like what he wants to do. Do you have a list of the parts you used to underspring the rear axle? And he asked if you had to do anything special to the driveshaft or if it just bolted right in as it was. Also, what did you do to drop the front exactly, as i cant tell if you just bought all new oem front parts and cut the coils or what. And if you did something special what was it? Thanks in advance. |
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| Author: | slantin_77 [ Fri Feb 07, 2014 4:36 am ] |
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Well the rear I had to buy new shocks, Energy Suspension poly bushings, OEM leaf spring seats, and Im sure you can buy the shock mount plates that you have to weld to the shock mounts (see picture on page 2...silver plate welded to shock mount with a hole drilled in the middle) but my friend Jamie made mine at work. And I bought all new hardware (bolts, nuts, u-bolts, etc). The driveshaft was not altered at all...just bolted right back in place. The front I bought OEM B300 lower control arms (Doorman brand) and OEM light duty springs made by Moog. Also bought new shocks and poly bushings. You do have to modify the lower control arms slightly (drilling some new holes, shaving off some metal for clearance) and I totally removed the bump stop mounts because they were in the way. There is a guy on another Dodge Truck forum that helped me a great deal. Here's a few of his threads that tell you exactly what to do, and if you have any questions, PM him and he will answer any questions you may have. http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328611 http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330665 |
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| Author: | slantin_77 [ Sat Feb 22, 2014 6:46 am ] |
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Ok, since I haven't really touched the truck all winter long, I figured I'd let you guys in on a little plan of mine...I'm going TURBO BABY! I've been reading up a lot on turbo'ing the wonderful leaning tower of power and seems they like to get boosted in stock form, so I'm in! A lot of research and planning I have ahead of me, but so far I have this info down: 1. I will be most likely using a CT26 turbo from a Toyota Supra/MR2 because it's a good match for a low-boost stock build (10psi max wastegate). 2. The carb used will be a Holley 2300 500cfm 2bbl modded for blow through application. I don't know anything about carbs so I'm going to have someone else mod it for me. I know the fuel system will have to be upgraded, as well as the spark. Again, I need to do more research on exactly what I need for all this stuff, but at least I can piece together everything as I go and learn more. I am now in search of a turbocharger in good condition, then I can start fabbing and mocking up the turbo on the engine I have on the engine stand. I'm so damn excited to get the ball rolling on this! I've never been more driven to do something like this! Probably because the truck has no computers and such where I need to mess with megasquirt and all that crap...just a simple carb'd turbo setup that should be just as reliable as a stock slant six but give a much more gratifying feel when the accelerator hits the floor. Stay tuned folks...things should get interesting! |
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| Author: | slantin_77 [ Sat Feb 22, 2014 12:22 pm ] |
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Scratch the CT26...I just bought this!    It's a AiResearch Garrett T04 from a Buick Grand National. The car had between 30-40k miles when he took it off. I paid $175 for it, which I thought was a steal! Now I need to slowly gather parts for the build. No turning back now! |
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| Author: | slantin_77 [ Sat Feb 22, 2014 5:05 pm ] |
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So I got all excited for the build that I went down to the garage, took the air cleaner off and took tons of pictures just to make sure there's enough room for a turbo...there's enough room for 4 turbos!    I also saw that there is fuel leaking somewhere...I gotta investigate that further when it gets nice out again.    Here's the engine I will be using for the turbo...it's from a 1969 Valiant with 80k miles on it. He said it ran like a top before he took it out to replace it with a 318. I think I'm going to tear it down and replace all gaskets, clean the living $#!+ out of it and paint it all pretty...I'm thinking black and gunmetal.    Then I decided to take the grille off to see how much room I had for an intercooler, and again...plenty!   The space between the radiator area is 32" exactly, and the intercooler kit I saw on eBay comes with the intercooler, piping, fittings and hardware. The intercooler itself is 27x7x2.75 so it's the perfect size!  I know the intercooler isn't "necessary" on a low boost setup, but it can't hurt, and it will make things more efficient in theory and will route the piping much easier to the carb (the GN's turbo hot/cold sides are oddly placed). |
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| Author: | slantin_77 [ Thu Feb 27, 2014 6:48 pm ] |
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Well today I got a package sitting on my doorstep...       I found a cnc machined flange to weld onto the manifold, but now I have to modify the manifold to make it work. I gotta jump on the slant six forums to see if anyone has a tutorial on how to do that. I am not spending $1000 on a custom-made turbo header...eff that $#!+! Anyways, as I get more parts collected, I will update the thread. Thanks for looking! |
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| Author: | slantin_77 [ Sun Mar 09, 2014 7:54 am ] |
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I got bored yesterday so I went down to the garage and dropped the turbo in the engine bay to see where I'd like it to sit and how I want it situated with the manifold/j-pipe and such. The pics below is exactly how I want the exhaust/intake sides to be routed (intake side straight up and exhaust at an angle to bolt to the j-pipe).     Then I decided to figure out how I want to brace the turbo, and I found some mounting points on both exhaust and intake sides of the turbo, and also found that making a brace/bracket that would come off of the driver's side engine mount would be perfect! Should be very easy to make a bracket that will hold the turbo and keep the weight off the manifold!   
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| Author: | slantin_77 [ Sun Mar 16, 2014 7:40 am ] |
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Well the World of Wheels car show in Duluth is next weekend and I was asked by a Midwest Mopar club member if I wanted to put my truck in their spot in the show, so that was a big HELL YES! On Tuesday managed to get the truck out of the garage, get it stuck in the driveway (damn summer tires with snow/slush), got it un-stuck with my '97 Camry, and got it parked on the road so I could drive it to the frame shop for an alignment on Friday. I got the alignment done ($50...not bad) and my boss let me detail it at the shop and keep it there all next week until the show. I spent all yesterday at the shop washing it, cleaning the interior and painting the gauge bezel since it looked like complete and utter crap. I went with a matte black with silver trim rings instead of all silver that it used to be. I think it looks much cleaner and not so "hey look at me". Anyways, on to the pictures. Getting it stuck and what I got it pulled out with. LoL   Parked on the street till I can get an alignment  Removed the buckets and put the bench back in temporarily  Something is leaking on the carb (intake manifold is saturated in fuel) so I bought a Walker rebuild kit and float and a friend of a friend said for $70 cash he'd rebuild and adjust it for me. Helluva deal if you ask me!   Washed the truck, cleaned the interior, painted the gauge bezel and made floor mats         
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| Author: | slantin_77 [ Sun Mar 23, 2014 8:55 pm ] |
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Well this weekend the truck was a hit! I got a lot of great compliments, no negative comments, and a plaque for "outstanding in class", which there were about 5 trucks in the class and I got 2nd...which means a lot! I also sold a bunch of model kits at the swap meet and have about $470 to spend on the turbo build, so I already talked to a friend and is selling a TurboXS Type H RFL blow-off valve with adapter for $125 (usually $160 w/o adapter), so that's a damn good deal for a brand new BOV. Also, I'm going to buy a 2.25" stainless u-bend, a flange for the exhaust manifold and a flange for the turbo and make a manifold-to-turbo pipe, and design a brace/bracket and get someone to fab it up. I'm going to make everything clean and well-designed. I also got a set of seats out of a Hyundai Tiburon from a great friend of mine, so I sold the Eddie Bauer seats. The Tiburon seats are much more supportive and more aggressive bolsters. Anyways, I'll leave some eye candy for you guys...as always, thanks for following the build!     Aaaaand...a '71 Plymouth Duster with a supercharged 225 slant six putting down 500hp!    
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| Author: | DadTruck [ Tue Mar 25, 2014 5:46 pm ] |
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nice,, its cool when the time and effort pays off 
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Mar 25, 2014 6:14 pm ] |
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Good job! If I ever got a trucka late 70s stepside like yours is what I would get. |
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| Author: | slanted 67 [ Thu Mar 27, 2014 5:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Dutra front and custom rear manifold. |
I did the Dutra front with the modified rear for my Barracuda, because of a cracked manifold. I have never been more happy how it turned out. I gave dual 2" pipes connected with an "H" pipe going to Flowmaster 40s. It is a really "tough" sound and gets the "throat" you would expect. Feel free to contact me. Quote: Today I decided to douse the "new" 225 slanty with Simple Green and clean it up a bit. It didn't come out too clean because the pass. side is caked with grease, so I'll have to find a better way to clean it...probably will have to wait till next Spring. I also found that the exhaust manifold is cracked...I'm kinda hoping it's in a spot that I can just make a clean cut and make a "rear Dutra" manifold out of it, since I'm planning on buying a front Dutra manifold.
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| Author: | slanted 67 [ Thu Mar 27, 2014 5:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Dutra front and custom rear manifold. |
You can see it here! http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4SSGeH5Kt0k Quote: I did the Dutra front with the modified rear for my Barracuda, because of a cracked manifold. I have never been more happy how it turned out. I gave dual 2" pipes connected with an "H" pipe going to Flowmaster 40s. It is a really "tough" sound and gets the "throat" you would expect. Feel free to contact me.
Quote: Today I decided to douse the "new" 225 slanty with Simple Green and clean it up a bit. It didn't come out too clean because the pass. side is caked with grease, so I'll have to find a better way to clean it...probably will have to wait till next Spring. I also found that the exhaust manifold is cracked...I'm kinda hoping it's in a spot that I can just make a clean cut and make a "rear Dutra" manifold out of it, since I'm planning on buying a front Dutra manifold. |
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| Author: | slantin_77 [ Sun Mar 30, 2014 6:33 am ] |
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Well at the car show last weekend I sold a bunch of model car kits so the money is going into the truck. For instance, I bought these parts yesterday so I have a complete turbo:  I also ordered 2 Magnaflow glasspacks (going single 2.5 pipe to a Y, then 2 glasspacks out to the dual tips) and some Camaro SS tips like these:  I don't know whether I want them to exit just beneath the side steps in front of the rear wheels or just below the rear bumper...dunno. I gotta think about that. Then in the next few weeks I will order the ultimate builder kit from Columbia River Mandrel Bends company. They are cheap and have awesome products. For about $150 shipped, I get all of this:  That should be enough to do my entire exhaust from the turbo back, as well as my J-pipe from the manifold to the turbo. |
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