Slant Six Forum :: TDC rotor point location

No. The negative side of the coil is the ground.

Quote:

No. The negative side of the coil is the ground.

Only if the points are closed.

Richard

An LED test light can be used between (+) and (-) on the coil and you should have the light blink while cranking, but other than that, no you wont have power with a test light.

"ON" and "RUN" are the same circuit. You need to test "ON/RUN" and in "START"... Two different circuits. "START" bypasses the resistor and applies direct power to the coil (+) while cranking.

And as others have said, 12 is more than old enough to be some good help!

Im having a feeling your issue is while cranking. Just run a jumper wire from batt (+) to coil (+) like I mentioned and try again. If it fires off, gonna have to test the starter relay and/or ign switch... Use either a voltmeter (my preferance) or a test light.

Quote:

No. The negative side of the coil is the ground.

Only if the points are closed.

Richard

True. My knowledge of points is rusty, at best. I haven't run a car with points since the early 90s.

12 is old enough to sit in the driver's seat and turn a key! By the time I was 12 I was doing rudimentary mechanic work. Get your daughter out there to help!

If the engine cranks when the key is turned then the starter relay is fine. The relay controls current flow to the starter motor, not to the ignition system. If the starter relay has failed then the engine won't crank.

Author:	nashvegas99 [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:13 am ]
Post subject:
yeah the rotor is turning. I have tried it with the key on. I/ve gotta figure out how to make a jumpe so I don t keep crossing over the solenoid. I'm gonna order new plug wires to add to the collection of points, rotor button, cap, plugs, coil...this is getting old really quickly

Author:	Reed [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:21 am ]
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If you have a hand held voltmeter or even a simple test light you can check if your coil is getting power. Just probe the + terminal of the coil with the key in the start and run positions.

Author:	nashvegas99 [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:23 am ]
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did that last night and yes it is getting power. but should the (-) side also light up?

Author:	Fopar [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:49 am ]
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It might if you don't have a wire from there to the dist. Richard

Author:	Reed [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 11:51 am ]
Post subject:
No. The negative side of the coil is the ground.

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Author:	nashvegas99 [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:36 pm ]
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ok, now i need you folks that are a whole lot smarter than me to help me out here. If one of you all don't mind laying out some shadetree terminology and directions, i'll try to follow them and see where it leads me. I'm wanting to get some info on testing out some of the parts and pieces. resistor - already tested w/ key on and hot on both sides starter relay - ????? best to test w/ voltemeter or just use light voltage regulator -????? coil - tested w/ key on and hot on (+) side and i think the (-) was lit up also...i'll have to double check that. I haven't been able to test cranking over using switch, only the crossover technique. I don't have anyone around to lend a helping hand. wife can't stand cars and my daughter is 12 (almost 13). thnx

Author:	Fopar [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:44 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: No. The negative side of the coil is the ground. Only if the points are closed. Richard

Author:	Reed [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:54 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: No. The negative side of the coil is the ground. Only if the points are closed. Richard True. My knowledge of points is rusty, at best. I haven't run a car with points since the early 90s. 12 is old enough to sit in the driver's seat and turn a key! By the time I was 12 I was doing rudimentary mechanic work. Get your daughter out there to help!

Author:	oldskoolracer [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:57 pm ]
Post subject:
An LED test light can be used between (+) and (-) on the coil and you should have the light blink while cranking, but other than that, no you wont have power with a test light. "ON" and "RUN" are the same circuit. You need to test "ON/RUN" and in "START"... Two different circuits. "START" bypasses the resistor and applies direct power to the coil (+) while cranking. And as others have said, 12 is more than old enough to be some good help! Im having a feeling your issue is while cranking. Just run a jumper wire from batt (+) to coil (+) like I mentioned and try again. If it fires off, gonna have to test the starter relay and/or ign switch... Use either a voltmeter (my preferance) or a test light.

Author:	oldskoolracer [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:14 pm ]
Post subject:
Testing the relay, you still need someone to turn the switch to "START". Again test light will be fine, need to see if the wire to the coil (+) has power when you crank it... The relay would be my best bet of being the culprit because of the fact that it is cranking so the switch is closing the circuit. You did good on the ballast, no need to check voltage regulator unless its having charging issues. Again, yes, get some help and check the power at the coil (+) while cranking. Dont worry about the ballast at this point. You just need to verify the relay is supplying power as it should.

Author:	Reed [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:17 pm ]
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If the engine cranks when the key is turned then the starter relay is fine. The relay controls current flow to the starter motor, not to the ignition system. If the starter relay has failed then the engine won't crank.

Author:	nashvegas99 [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:45 pm ]
Post subject:
so i can clip the negative end on the neg post fo the coil and touch the pointed test light end to positive and it should show blinking while cranking? Quote: An LED test light can be used between (+) and (-) on the coil and you should have the light blink while cranking, but other than that, no you wont have power with a test light. "ON" and "RUN" are the same circuit. You need to test "ON/RUN" and in "START"... Two different circuits. "START" bypasses the resistor and applies direct power to the coil (+) while cranking. And as others have said, 12 is more than old enough to be some good help! Im having a feeling your issue is while cranking. Just run a jumper wire from batt (+) to coil (+) like I mentioned and try again. If it fires off, gonna have to test the starter relay and/or ign switch... Use either a voltmeter (my preferance) or a test light.

Author:	nashvegas99 [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:46 pm ]
Post subject:
oh, let me clarify that....she is already driving my wifes pt cruiser. she is very tall and very smart. the issue is that she is also my wife made over and thinks that the car is (insert whatever bad thing you can say) Quote: Quote: Quote: No. The negative side of the coil is the ground. Only if the points are closed. Richard True. My knowledge of points is rusty, at best. I haven't run a car with points since the early 90s. 12 is old enough to sit in the driver's seat and turn a key! By the time I was 12 I was doing rudimentary mechanic work. Get your daughter out there to help!

Author:	nashvegas99 [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:51 pm ]
Post subject:
should i disconnect the positive lead on there or will that matter when jumping over? Quote: An LED test light can be used between (+) and (-) on the coil and you should have the light blink while cranking, but other than that, no you wont have power with a test light. "ON" and "RUN" are the same circuit. You need to test "ON/RUN" and in "START"... Two different circuits. "START" bypasses the resistor and applies direct power to the coil (+) while cranking. And as others have said, 12 is more than old enough to be some good help! Im having a feeling your issue is while cranking. Just run a jumper wire from batt (+) to coil (+) like I mentioned and try again. If it fires off, gonna have to test the starter relay and/or ign switch... Use either a voltmeter (my preferance) or a test light.

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Author:	oldskoolracer [ Thu Jun 19, 2014 2:02 pm ]
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Quote: If the engine cranks when the key is turned then the starter relay is fine. The relay controls current flow to the starter motor, not to the ignition system. If the starter relay has failed then the engine won't crank. That was something I was not sure of with the age of his car. My 78 sends power from the relay over to the coil while cranking ( Ithink, cant find any wiring diagrams and not gonna cut open the harness just to see) so I figured the older models were pretty similar...