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ProCycle's FI Turbo build https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56352 |
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Author: | dartsport76 [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 12:13 pm ] |
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Quote: FWIW, O'Reilly Auto Parts has a wide selection of Holley parts in stock. For the most part, their counter crew doesn't know what any of the parts are, i.e. you could call and they would tell you "no"...
Huh, my local doesn't. They have to custom order in whatever you want, then jack the price
Looks like that ship has sailed on your build, though. Back on topic, I think your build is awesome! |
Author: | ProCycle [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 12:22 pm ] |
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Quote: Looks like that ship has sailed on your build, though. Yeah. On the plus side using the Mikuni jets gives me more jet choices over a given range than Holly has. It allows finer steps from one jet to the next and I already have dozens of them.I'll still have a period where I'll be running a draw through setup with the Holley. That will require a little more futzing with jetting. I will want to make sure the turbo plumbing is sorted before I start working on the Megasquirt FI. Plus, I want to see how much improvement a simple turbo setup with a few lbs of boost will make. |
Author: | Ssg Pohlman [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 12:48 pm ] |
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[/quote]. Plus, I want to see how much improvement a simple turbo setup with a few lbs of boost will make.[/quote] Up to 5 its def noticeable, and when you start hitting 10 is when it really comes to lives and wants to go. W 3:55 i have to shift too soon but going auto should help. I play in 2nd, rolling along about 1500 rpm or so and mat it to the floor, climbs fast to 10 and pulls hard. Still getting carb to work rt so 3rd like to lean out for some reason. 1st is almost too short to consider. You will have quite the fun, trust me. |
Author: | Serj22 [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:43 pm ] |
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Pepboys nearby just opened a "speed" aisle or something, but they have every part imaginable for a Holley. Kind of cool. |
Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Jan 17, 2015 3:53 pm ] |
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Now that the intake manifold is coming together I am figuring out how to retain the fuel rail. I used my 3-D printer to make up a prototype bracket. It's a lot quicker to print a mock-up part to test fit that to make one, learn that it isn't quite right and make up another one. I will fab two of these out of aluminum and weld them to the plenum. |
Author: | ProCycle [ Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:01 am ] |
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Stays are done up in aluminum and welded to the plenum. I milled a couple of dimples in the fuel rail so the screws locate it firmly. |
Author: | Pierre [ Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:25 am ] |
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How stable is the rail like that? I'm a bit weary of just the pressure fit. The shop that did mine made the stays so they welded to the runner, then met the rail at the meaty bottom part that was drilled and counter-sinked. The stay was tapped, then held together with a socket cap screw so it sat flush. |
Author: | ProCycle [ Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:51 am ] |
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I guess I'll find out but it seems plenty stable to me. The dimples are almost 1/4" deep and engage the ends of the bolts so it can't move side to side or up and down. It can't go anywhere unless I were to hit it with a hammer or something. With fuel pressure and boost, I calculate there will be about 100 pounds of force trying to push it away from the injector bosses. That's 50lbs per bracket. I can always fabricate additional brackets if it seems necessary. |
Author: | Pierre [ Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:18 pm ] |
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Ah ok, so the screw actually goes inside the dimple. That should be reasonable then. I thought just the 'fins' were milled and the screw sat on top only. As long as there's enough wall thickness left for the fuel you should be fine then. The screw is at the same angle as the injectors? Sorry, just paranoid... had a fuel rail mishap once and it was not pretty. Slid off one injector part way, while driving. PS - with the right size screw/hole you can go as far as tapping it (bottoming tap?) for even more security. |
Author: | ProCycle [ Mon Jan 19, 2015 2:44 pm ] |
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Yes, the injectors and the screws are at 30 degrees. I can 'finger tighten' the screws until the fuel rail is bottomed squarely against the injectors. Then tighten the lock nuts to keep the screws from backing off. So here are a couple of pics of the nearly finished intake nested in with the exhaust and turbo. |
Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:20 pm ] |
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A non related observation.. you Cycle guys must use them Bike Jacks / Build stations for everything! I guess If I had enough room I would get one.. And maybe a bike to go with it,. Keep Trucking on the build! Greg |
Author: | ProCycle [ Mon Jan 19, 2015 5:31 pm ] |
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It's pretty handy to have a work table that will go from 6" to 30" |
Author: | ProCycle [ Fri Jan 30, 2015 10:45 am ] |
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More progress on the intake manifold/plenum. Here it is bolted to a spare head & block as a mock up. I think all the fabrication is done. I found a Ford throttle body that fits nicely. I put in several threaded bungs so I'll have places to connect the sensors for manifold pressure, intake air temperature, boost gauge, etc. As well as a port for the waste gate actuator. And a couple of extras just in case. It's a lot easier to put them in now rather than later. |
Author: | Dart270 [ Fri Jan 30, 2015 10:57 am ] |
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Very nice work. Thanks for sharing. Lou |
Author: | ProCycle [ Sat Jan 31, 2015 8:00 pm ] |
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Thanks, Lou. I'm definitely having fun with it so far. |
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