Quote:
Get an o2 sensor if you dont have one
Your kidding me right? 
I don't even like relays so I doubt that I will be getting any more electronic gadgets anytime soon. But never say never!! Guess I better learn to read plugs!
Rick
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Page 34 of 122 |
| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Get an o2 sensor if you dont have one
Your kidding me right? I don't even like relays so I doubt that I will be getting any more electronic gadgets anytime soon. But never say never!! Guess I better learn to read plugs! Rick |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Plug reading is good. I think an O2 is better.. It will give you realtime feedback so you know what and where to tune.. Plugs will just give you an overview.. Do you have a tach in your car? No harder to wire up than your tach. Greg |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Fri Oct 19, 2012 4:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Do you have a tach in your car?
Oh sure rub in the obvious!!! Tell you what. If I win a race next week I'll consider buying one!! |
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| Author: | Will [ Fri Oct 19, 2012 7:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What is this tach you speak of?? Will |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Sat Oct 20, 2012 8:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I ran the red car for many years with no tach. I used to race a motorcycle with no tach or shift light. 
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I took the tach out of my bogger when I realised I had never read it unless the car was stationary. The automatic is governed to shift at the rev limit. I dont know what the rev limit is in RPM but I assure you I can hear it. A data logger is the best. |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sat Nov 17, 2012 8:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | Cam Specs? |
Well with the racing over for the year, our thoughts turn to something new. How to go faster!! Since my engine in my car was always planned to be a temporary engine, and that it may end up in my truck to give it a little more umph towing; I decided to check the actual lift at the valves of my cam. I got this cam from a friend who thought it was a MP .490 lift but he was not 100% sure. But as I listen to my car I was afraid maybe it was the 528 lift. It just sounds a little mean to me!! Anyway, I wanted to be sure what I had so I pulled the Valve cover and set up my dial indicator right on top of the retainer. I measured the actual valve lift at .448 and with a .022 lash (cold) that only gives a total lift of .470. But I don't see any cam from MP with the lift in that range. So what do I got? Maybe it ain't even a MP! who knows. I guess this is good news. If I go to my .520 lift cam on my big bore motor it should run even better than I thought! 13's here I come !! Woo Hoo!! Rick |
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| Author: | terrylittlejohn [ Sat Nov 17, 2012 2:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
it could be wear or rocker ratio off a bit?? |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sat Nov 17, 2012 6:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: rocker ratio off a bit??
Yep I totally forgot about that! you are probably right.Rick |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Sun Nov 18, 2012 4:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yep, best to measure on the pushrod end of the rocker, or just pull a rocker and use the pushrod cup. Prolly the 0.490" cam. Lou |
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| Author: | terrylittlejohn [ Sun Nov 18, 2012 5:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
i ran both those cams , they are great with 10/1 comp and 600 holley. |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sun Nov 18, 2012 1:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
This cam works great! Plus I only have a 8.7 CR. So I am leaving a little on the table there too. Question on the Rocker arm ratio. Just for reference, I see people talking about the ratio's being shorter than the 1.5, but is there any reason to think that the ratio could not also be long? Like 1.55 instead of 1.5? It seems that if this is a production tolerance then they should be off in both directions. Just thinking out loud. Rick |
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| Author: | terrylittlejohn [ Sun Nov 18, 2012 4:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i have never measured . just checked for oil flow and shape,but anything is possible with mass production |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Mon Nov 19, 2012 4:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sam Powell measured a bunch individually and found 1.4 - 1.55, so you can find some longer ones, but they are more rare. Most seem around 1.45? Lou |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sat Dec 15, 2012 4:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Begin Round #2 |
I hate to think about tearing my car apart after just having it running for less than a year, but here goes. The plan all along for this engine was for it to be the first step to get may car running and racing in 2012. I did that and had a great time. It ran a best 14.7 @ 90 too. But I want to run a little faster and I have most of the parts to put together a poor man's big bore engine. Ryan was planning to build an engine for one of his "fleet" of slant 6 vehicles and it turns out the engine in my car is exactly what he wanted. So we made a deal. If he pays for all the machine work for my new engine I will just hand off my already built engine for him to use in one of his cars. Since he was building one anyway, it might as well be mine. He knows how my current engine runs, so this was a win / win for both of us. I will try and document this build like I did the build of my car. Hopefully, in May 2013 it will click off some mid-13 second times at the first race of the year on the East Coast. We shall see. The poor man's big bore parts list looks like this for me. Complete 68-70 engine------------------$35 E-Bay Reconditioned 198 rods - ---------------$90 PAW years ago New 2.8L chevy pistons / Rings -------$35 E-Bay Reground Cam .513/506 / 290 -------$87 Oregon Cams Modified oil pump and hardened gear--$75 Doc New Lifters -------------------------------$24 E-Bay New Chromoloy Push Rods-------------$46 E-Bay Engine Builder Valves -------------------$87 E-Bay New Valve Springs ----------------------- $46 E-Bay Cylinder head work -----------------------$200 Machine shop Sonic check Block ------------------------$ Free I will post more as I go along. But I did have one question. I want to make sure that when I sonic checked the block that I have the readings written down right. Am I correct that the passenger side is the major thrust side? And what is the minimum wall thickness that I need to do the +.103 overbore? I can post the wall thicknesses if anyone is interested in seeing what they are. One other thing. The piston was -.178 down the bore. Thanks for listening, Rick |
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