Whoah, stop. Save yourself a ton of aggravation and give your truck a chance at running well:

Do not buy anything buy from Layson, Ever. He is a known and demonstrated con artist and a cheat — just search this board or any other Mopar board — and he is now fighting very legitimate Federal fraud and counterfeiting charges.

Do not buy from Autozone, except for cheap engine oil and antifreeze. Other than that, they sell only junk.

Do not buy "remanufactured" parts from anywhere. They are junk, too.

You don't want what Layson is fraudulently advertising as a "Mopar Performance high performance advance curve"; in reality-speak that means it's got a single ultra-lightweight spring on the mechanical advance. Totally unsuitable for on-street usage. It's not what you want, not even a little bit.

You can get a very suitable brand-new electronic ignition distributor from Old Car Parts Northwest. You need a single-pickup electronic slant-6 distributor with two wires. He has several different part numbers; 3874714 is a fine choice with a good advance curve.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thank-you thank-you thank-you

On this coil, are the two male prongs on the left + and the two on the right - ?

They're marked + on left and - on the right, I just want to know if it matters where I hook the wires from the HEI to, and if I have to use all four terminals...

OK, so I got the whole unit from a Salvage yard yesterday. 98 Chevy PU coil with bracket and module. my question is about the connectors. Anyone know of a cheaper source for stock connectors? Or is this overkill? Rock auto list the coil one for $25 and the module for $46.

Also the shape of the bracket is a bit odd, but it looks like it would wrap around the inner fender. Are there supposed to be rubber "cushoners" between it and the fender (for vibration)? It ALMOST looks like there is supposed to be some, (although I know it needs to be grounded too)

Yup: the same vehicle at the same salvage yard! The OE-type connectors are costly, but they're also very, very high grade stuff: triple-weathersealed, etc.
Not sure, but doubt it; that coil is epoxy-potted and therefore not vibration-prone.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan. the problem is that all the "You-pull-it" yards here in town didn't have any so I had to go to a yard that had already pulled it ($25 though). They sell the whole harness seperately. What are my alternatives for trying to keep dus out of the connection port? It's obvious by the GM design they were concerned with this and Tucson is one dusty town.

Try another wrecking yard…?

Dust won't make problems — moisture will, and there's not much of that in Tucson! Seriously, about all you need to worry about is adequate electrical contact and adequate electrical insulation. If you aren't concerned with easy snap-off/snap-on connection, you could make the connections permanent (soldering iron) then fill up the cavity with RTV silicone.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

True. The voice of reason again Dan. Thanks

I'll still need the relay with this unit though, correct?

I've been running my HEI conversion without a relay for a few thousand miles and many months with no relay and no problems. My electrical system is in pretty decent shape.

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Joshua

I have installed HEI on three cars now, never with a relay. In fact, I just got done converting one about ten minutes agfo and it is running fine without a relay. Relays might be a good idea long term, but don't seem to be absolutely necessary.

You can get it running without a relay, but you'll dramatically shorten the life of the module if it doesn't have full voltage. I found this out the hard way on my way back from our squadron picnic soon after I bought my Duster. Discovered the necessity for full voltage so I wired in a relay, and not a problem since. I just fired it up a week or so ago after sitting since October and it was as if it had just sat for a day or so.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

?Same relay Dan called for in the article?

The same.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

This is the coil/module combo I made for my conversion from leanburn.http://s658.photobucket.com/albums/uu310/oldblue1982/