Slant Six Forum :: First fire successfull....but some issues

Picked up a 92 Dakota starter today

I have everything the builder has said documented...he isnt saying to beat on the pan....he is saying it may just need a little massage, which makes sense

I wouldn't pull the engine completely. I would lift the engine enough to pull the oil pan (diffcult, but do-able with the engine still in the engine bay),

Is the plate under the starter? Maybe that's why its hanging.

Quote:

Picked up a 92 Dakota starter today

That's a much better idea than the "100% New!" Chinese knockoff garbage that's flushing around all over the internet.

I don't know what engine honey is, perhaps its a viscosity thickening agent? Most name brand oils sell versions with agents that swell seals for some additional lifespan to them.

Many folks will say, and I agree, these are only band aids and can actually hurt your engine, especially higher viscosity oils to slow or stop leaks. Puts more stress on the oil pump and system. The stuff that swells seals sometimes works, but it's just a band aid, if the seal is leaking it will again, eventually.

Brian

With numerous experts present on this thread, I hesitate (being a relative noob) to jump in, but what the heck. Is the oil leak problem solve-able by using engine honey

No wonder it's not leaking when cold. Tapping the pan isn't the right way by a long shot,short of pulling the engine there ain't much option. Why can't you pull the engine? It's a mornings work,or is it an issue to have the car stuck where it is? Surely the builder would help out in some way.

Author:	Reed [ Fri Nov 04, 2016 4:29 pm ]
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I wouldn't pull the engine completely. I would lift the engine enough to pull the oil pan (diffcult, but do-able with the engine still in the engine bay), pull the rear main bearing cap, inspect the crank, and replace the rear main seal. You should be able to work the new seal into the block using a small philips head screwdriver and a small pair of needlenose pliers. Remember to offset the ends of the seal halves in the rear cap and the block. Be sure the lip is pointing the right way.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Fri Nov 04, 2016 5:39 pm ]
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Quote: Picked up a 92 Dakota starter today That's a much better idea than the "100% New!" Chinese knockoff garbage that's flushing around all over the internet. Quote: I have everything the builder has said documented...he isnt saying to beat on the pan....he is saying it may just need a little massage, which makes sense I don't agree that it makes sense.

Author:	my5thmopar [ Sat Nov 05, 2016 7:08 am ]
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Is the plate under the starter? Maybe that's why its hanging.

Author:	shadango [ Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:09 am ]
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Quote: I wouldn't pull the engine completely. I would lift the engine enough to pull the oil pan (diffcult, but do-able with the engine still in the engine bay), Not sure that we would be able to lift it enough with a crane to allow the pan to come down without separating it from the trans again....and to go that far, may as well pull it. Still trying to decide what approach to take.....I do not have the location to do the crane thing again at this point. Time is a whole other issue.....never enough time, but combine this time of year work requirements, weather issues and lack of light outside, well....... The builder had said to drive it a bit.....I think we are gonna do that and when it doesnt stop (I dont think it will - why would it? LOL) I will go back and ask the builder if they can take a look at it and bang/tap all they want....that way if it gets worse its already there.

Author:	shadango [ Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:11 am ]
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Quote: Is the plate under the starter? Maybe that's why its hanging. Yeah, we had reinstalled the plate with the old starter. But we installed the mini starter over the weekend and WOW what a difference. Cranks FAST and fires FAST. I like the "grrr-rrrrrr-rrrr--rrrrr--rrrrr" sound of the old styler, but this one takes less current etc and starts FAST.....so....its a keeper.

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First fire successfull....but some issues https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60390	Page 5 of 6

Author:	shadango [ Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:15 am ]
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Quote: Quote: Picked up a 92 Dakota starter today That's a much better idea than the "100% New!" Chinese knockoff garbage that's flushing around all over the internet. Well, not so fast....LOL I got a reman unit from Advance Auto using a 92 Dakota as the target vehicle. With perks, discounts etc it ended up being $75 or so (with a $20 core included in that).....and a lifetime warranty. Local yard said he wanted $50 for a used one with high miles, no guarantee. SO the choice was easy. I have the same deal on my Barracuda and that one has lasted fine for over 4 or 5 years now I think. Dont know where this one was remanufactured....here or "jyna"..... The lifetime warranty is the clincher. We'll hold on to the old starter just in case. But WOW what a difference it made! Starts FAST!

Author:	shadango [ Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:22 am ]
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SO aside from the new starter going in, we installed a NOS carb that a wonderful member here sent to us. It made a HUGE difference! We then also went over the intake/exhaust bolts to look for any possible leaks etc. and installed the slant 6 air cleaner assembly that lincparts sold us..... The thing runs and drives so much better. And that is with timning at 12 at the lash still set at .020 cold! She still "stinks".....too rich I guess.....we were hooking up a vac gauge to see what we could see and snapped off the nipple on the 3 way vacuum gizmo on the manifold......are those available anywhere?? WE used a miracle bonding agent and actually reattached it and it is holding but want to replace it....it shows signs of being broken before..... Anyways, we have 16 on the vac gauge......pretty steady though it does move a little as the idle changes a little on its own....not hunting, but little upticks in the idle. Not sure how much vac we should have with this cam? But man, the NOS carb made a huge difference.....no more stalling at idle in gear, good pickup now, good kickdown.....like night and day! I guess the other carb we were using needs redone after all. A project for another day I guess. LOL Still have the oil leak in my mind and stewing on that....in the meantime, tweaks here and there to deal with.....and DRIVING IT!

Author:	halfafish [ Mon Nov 07, 2016 8:35 am ]
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With numerous experts present on this thread, I hesitate (being a relative noob) to jump in, but what the heck. Is the oil leak problem solve-able by using engine honey? Back in the day, the life of many a tired/leaking engine was extended by treating it with this stuff. When I drove my slanty home as the proud new owner, it was leaking from every place that held liquid. I fixed the other leaks and seals, but knowing I was going to rebuild the engine I wasn't crazy about investing time and effort to stop the oil leaks. So I added a bottle of engine honey when I changed the oil, and it worked like a charm. No more drips on the shop floor, and it's holding well while I build the new engine. I realize this could be an acceptable stop-gap solution for a tired motor, that might not be appropriate for a brand new motor. Gurus, I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on this option.

Author:	'67 Dart 270 [ Mon Nov 07, 2016 11:53 am ]
Post subject:	engine honey
I don't know what engine honey is, perhaps its a viscosity thickening agent? Most name brand oils sell versions with agents that swell seals for some additional lifespan to them. Many folks will say, and I agree, these are only band aids and can actually hurt your engine, especially higher viscosity oils to slow or stop leaks. Puts more stress on the oil pump and system. The stuff that swells seals sometimes works, but it's just a band aid, if the seal is leaking it will again, eventually. Brian

Author:	shadango [ Mon Nov 07, 2016 12:03 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: engine honey
Quote: I don't know what engine honey is, perhaps its a viscosity thickening agent? Most name brand oils sell versions with agents that swell seals for some additional lifespan to them. Many folks will say, and I agree, these are only band aids and can actually hurt your engine, especially higher viscosity oils to slow or stop leaks. Puts more stress on the oil pump and system. The stuff that swells seals sometimes works, but it's just a band aid, if the seal is leaking it will again, eventually. Brian ....and I feel like since I just spent a couple of grand on having a engine rebuilt, I shouldn't have to be bandaiding anything. That said, doesn't hurt to consider options and I appreciate the poster making an effort to help. My old man tried motor honey way back when I was a kid and we had a 56 Merc with a 312 v8.....leaked. He had all the seals redone....and it came back leaking worse. The shop couldnt find the leak. More motor honey did nothing. I ended up, as a 15 year old, laying under the car and finding the leak...it was a leaking seal on valley cover...waaaaaay in back. Replaced that seal and viola...no leaks. Wish my current issue was that "easy". LOL

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Mon Nov 07, 2016 1:19 pm ]
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Quote: With numerous experts present on this thread, I hesitate (being a relative noob) to jump in, but what the heck. Is the oil leak problem solve-able by using engine honey Absolutely not. That stuff (an ultra-thick oil) is for squeezing the very last few miles out of a worn-out engine. That is its only purpose. Pouring it into any other kind of engine is a good recipe for engine failure (and, in the case of a freshly-built engine, voiding the warranty).

Author:	SlantSteve [ Mon Nov 07, 2016 10:47 pm ]
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Don't run a seal conditioner in a new engine. You have one leak,don't punish all the seals because of that. Oil additives,well,you shouldn't need them,it's a new engine,I doubt it will do any damage but I doubt it's gonna help a lot either. What viscosity oil are you running? There is a tendency from what I've seen to run very light oils ,that up to the user and many have great results,but maybe a heavier 15w/40 oil may help a tad,especially after you say it's only leaking when hot. Again,it's not a cure,it should not leak oil with any viscosity in there. The stinking at idle,well,what ignition are you running? I'd go for the HEI ignition conversion a a minimum . MSD was decent years ago,now Holley own it things may improve but until I hear positive reports of quality improvements I'd go HEI,old tech but works decent. The other thing that will stink at idle is valve overlap, your cam has a fair bit of low lift overlap due to its slow lobe ramps and tight lobe separation. This will not help idle emissions,perhaps open up,the lash a little more,especially the exhaust,you need to lose some duration there and this will reduce overlap to some degree.

Author:	shadango [ Tue Nov 08, 2016 2:56 am ]
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Running 30w brad Penn break in oil per the builder.

Author:	SlantSteve [ Tue Nov 08, 2016 7:46 am ]
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No wonder it's not leaking when cold. Tapping the pan isn't the right way by a long shot,short of pulling the engine there ain't much option. Why can't you pull the engine? It's a mornings work,or is it an issue to have the car stuck where it is? Surely the builder would help out in some way.

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Author:	shadango [ Tue Nov 08, 2016 10:05 am ]
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Quote: No wonder it's not leaking when cold. Tapping the pan isn't the right way by a long shot,short of pulling the engine there ain't much option. Why can't you pull the engine? It's a mornings work,or is it an issue to have the car stuck where it is? Surely the builder would help out in some way. It may be a morning's work for someone experienced. But we take our time because we are relative newbies....labeling every wire and vac connection (this isnt a 65 Valiant, its a 80 Volare...tons of crap on it) , bagging parts etc. It took us quite a while to do the initial teardown and pull. Plus, I can only pull the engine in our driveway outside......weather, lack of daylight and our schedules are major issues now. Basically starting the whole process over? I dont know if I have the strength or time to do it. Hoping the builder steps up when we approach him on it.