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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1547
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Quote:
Well, if I recall correctly, the first thing it hits is the steering gearbox, and it is downhill from there since that throws the rest of it out of whack.
Is that for the power steering box? The manual boxes are much smaller as you know, so maybe if it was manual it would work?

Pictures would be awesome!

PM me if you have some

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:27 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 8:49 pm
Posts: 707
Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Quote:
Contact Doug, he will sell you a rear section already modified. Or if you want to get spendy, a dual-dual. Userid "Doc" or "Doctor Dodge"
I did, and its going to be another $125 bucks (on top of the $500 its going to take) for the manifold.

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:11 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Here's another question/pondering to add to the confusion:

In this month's PHR, they had an article about a new electrical exhaust cutout that I thought would be fun to have on my duster when I get the exhaust done. Problem is the smallest they offer is 2.5" pipe. Will it have any effect on the exhaust system if the system overall is 2.25", goes up to 2.5" right before the muffler (due to the cutout), then back to 2.25" for the connection to the muffler and the 2" tailpipe. I assume if it does affect the system, it'll be in a negative way when the cutout is routing exhaust through the muffler.

Why am I even considering a cutout? No reason other than being uber loud, but only when I choose to. Like they say in the article, so I can pull up next to some jack hole on a cellphone or with an overly loud stereo and open the valve :twisted:

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:12 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Stepping up to 2 1/2" and tapering back down will be fine. Just adds cost and complexity is all.

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Joshua


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:19 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
When you go from 2.25 to 2.5 then back to 2.25, don't use the adaptors you get at the auto store....

With a nice smooth taper in both directions, it won't make any difference.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:41 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13272
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Fairly certain the interference was on a manual gearbox.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1547
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Hmmm, well, I have an F-Body pipe, so I think I'll go out and see where it interferes on my '74. I'll take pictures too!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 2:47 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Car Model:
Quote:
Stepping up to 2 1/2" and tapering back down will be fine. Just adds cost and complexity is all.
Very cool. I'm gonna be all the jerk I can be with this thing :lol:

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:16 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 8:49 pm
Posts: 707
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Car Model:
Quote:
Why am I even considering a cutout? No reason other than being uber loud, but only when I choose to. Like they say in the article, so I can pull up next to some jack hole on a cellphone or with an overly loud stereo and open the valve :twisted:
I am going to get one of those cutouts too! But im going to get some of those 'ole school manual cutouts, the electric ones are too expensive.

I just thought of somthing, what kind of exhaust tips would look good too? And would there be an advantage to adding an X pipe or an H pipe?

Its between headers and dutras, and I cannot do the rear manifold mod or pay to have it done, so the headers seem the best choice for me, if I can find them for a good price, even though its a daily driver. Isn't there a mod that you can run your coolant under the carb on the intake?

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:02 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2004 5:22 am
Posts: 1134
Location: Carrollton, TX
Car Model:
Quote:
I did, and its going to be another $125 bucks (on top of the $500 its going to take) for the manifold.
I took a stock manifold to a local welder. He cut the front branch where I asked and welded it shut. Cost me $40 and 24 hours.

I'm sure there's a guy like that near you. You just have to do some legwork. The guy that did the work for me didn't have a website, a business card, or even a sign in front of his shop. I found out about him by asking around. A lot.

If you really want Dutras, and don't have much money, it just takes a little more effort than point and click.

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vm

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 5:30 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 8:49 pm
Posts: 707
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Car Model:
True, I never looked into that, I will try it.

Now, I found this video on youtube of a '68 Valiant, but it has headers. I would like to get a similar sound to it. Here is the video. Could I get this same sound with dutra duals? I wonder what kind of muffler is on it...

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'74 Duster 225 Super Six w/904
14" Cragar SS wheels


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 10:55 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 9:07 am
Posts: 1192
Location: Cypress, Texas, Northwest Houston. The Lone Star State
Car Model:
I vote for the Dutra Duals. I've had a Dutra front manifold for over 6 years now.
I just recently installed a glasspack on my '78 Volare 225; Flowtech's "Purple Hornie". I ordered it from O'Reilly Auto Parts, my parttime job.:) I like it better than the Flowmaster that I had on there. Right now, it's ending right before the diff.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 11:25 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:03 am
Posts: 131
Location: Orange County, CA
Car Model:
I must've said this a half dozen times since coming back to the Slant board, BUT, since I SHOULD be getting my car back next month (March) I can finally actually plan to move forward. Based on a little research I've done here, I've decided to get the Flowmaster 40's off my car (it's a dual exhaust coming out of Clifford headers) in favor of two of these:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... mber=21206

Walker 21206. The Flowmaster 40's sound fine, but they can drone at times. My dad wanted the car to sound tough (we do have a little build up), but now that I'm getting the car back in Cali, I want it to sound stock, with no worries about it being loud on the inside. I've decided I want the car to be more of a sleeper so I have no problems going down to a 'stock-type' muffler, which is my understanding as to the 21206's purpose. I originally wanted to downgrade from a dual exhaust to a single with one Walker, but I figured that would be a lot more labor cost for a shop to do. So I settled on the idea of just having a shop cut out my Flowmasters and weld in the Walkers. Plus, I would still have cutouts on each pipe so I can leave them partially open if I decide I *need* to be louder on the weekends, or whatever.

I guess my question is, what does anyone think of these Walkers? I know at least one venerable member here uses or has used them, but the name escapes me. Anyone else used this Walker before?

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-Anthony
1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 1:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24799
Location: North America
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I have a 21206 under my '71 Dart. It's generally fine but has more of a moan/drone than I like at between 80 and 100 km/h (about 50 and 60 mph). If I had remembered what talented installation artists the guys at the shop I use are, I would've specified a 21357 instead. Can't say for sure that would've been grumble-free, but I think it might've been given its intended application (4-litre Jeeps). A resonator of one kind or another might get rid of the drone.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2009 2:34 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:03 am
Posts: 131
Location: Orange County, CA
Car Model:
Strange that a stock-type muffler would moan OR drone, hehe. What about all that bracketry (shown in photos of that 21357)? And that strange flange? Wouldn't all that have to be cut off to fit a tubular exhaust? I don't really know a lot about mufflers but as far as I knew you just want the muffler and the inlet/outlet w/o all that other crazy stuff for old cars like these.

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-Anthony
1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200


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