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SL6 Heater question
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32985		 Page 6 of 6
Author:  sandy in BC [ Thu Jan 22, 2009 5:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
Time to fix the mixing door....or seal it....or unblock it...

If the heater core is hot and your fan works then you dont have the right "mix" to warm the car.

Do you leave the passenger vent open when the heat is on?
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes, wide open.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Dan,

No, except I am allergic to Diesel fumes. That is why the outside air is blocked off. Too many years repairing diesels in the marine business.

It heats up slowly...... but not as hot or quick as my 440 cars. Tonight it was just about 28 degrees and in 8 miles it got up to 82 degrees inside. When its' 15 to 20 out degrees that is where I see the big drop in heat output.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Drove in this morning, it was 16 degrees, blowing ice and snow crystals. Output temp after a one hour drive is 89 degrees max at 65 mph......
What do other folks see for their heater vent temperature?

I have an outdoor thermometer laying on the hump at the outlet of the heater.

Engine temp was right at 200 to 205 degrees. Radiator tank was 210. Engine purred like a kitten.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Jan 29, 2009 6:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well the saga continues......finally getting some nice heat and my wife is happy.:D

After lots of heater box investigation in areas that were not visible, I found that the deflector (diverts air to the floor or to the windshield -defroster setting had some unseen problems.

Apparently the metal deflector had gotten so hot that the foam seal slide off over the end and was hanging down blocking the air flow to the floor. The only way to tell was to stick my fingers up the outlet as far as I could. After trimming the fiberglass housing for better access on the passenger side I could reach up there with hemostats to hold the material and then trim the seal flush with the end of the deflector.

The heater system works much better now, almost as hot as my 440 cars. :D
Author:  Reed [ Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yay! See? Slants aren't any colder than a V-8.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
.
Author:  emsvitil [ Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
.


:?:
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Jan 29, 2009 9:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
:?:
:!:
Author:  Eric W [ Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:06 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
.
:shock: :lol:
Author:  Reed [ Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:35 am ]
Post subject: 
Image = Image
Author:  bbbbbb9 [ Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:36 am ]
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LMAO
Author:  stonethk [ Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:24 am ]
Post subject: 
Ok Is this thread done ...I'm tired of the little yellow folder designating a new reply constantly.... :P
Author:  wjajr [ Sat Jan 31, 2009 5:57 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Ok Is this thread done
Nope

Dan wrote:
Quote:
" ".

Dan I know you don't like someone putting words in your mouth, but...

Secret Dan Decoder Ring:

A big blank = "Nothing left to say"




Me, I'll rub it in a little, but I will leave the sand out of the Vaseline... and just bayonet the dead.
Quote:
Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:26 pm: Someth'en ain't right with your box, flappers, and control cables.

Post subject: (Fri Dec 26, 2008 4:35 pm): Check adjustment of all trap doors & flappers in heater box.

Post subject: (Sat Dec 27, 2008 7:26 pm): Check adjustment of all trap doors & flappers in heater box.

Post subject: (Thu Jan 01, 2009 11:51 am): flappers in the heater box adjusted and working as they should it is time to


Post subject: (Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:22 am):
If the flow is good, than the dreaded heater box needs to be autopsied, check for flaps opening & closing 100%, proper seals are in place, and cable controls fully articulating the flap doors.

Post subject: White Flag!!!! (Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:38 pm):
I give up on the hydronic heat system puzzle. If everything is performing as you say, it should be making copious amounts of heat, you must be missing something.

Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:26 pm: Someth'en ain't right with your box, flappers, and control cables.
I'm glad you took my advice & othes, checked the heater box and all worked out well. It has to give you a warm feeling finally finding that cussed blockage.

I have been there buddy, just ask my wife...
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:06 am ]
Post subject: 
Who would of thought the heater outlet would be the problem?????????????? When you say check the doors, well the assumption is the inlet door and make sure the cables are hooked up to the diverter and the inlet door.

You can't even take the outlet assembly a part?? Much less see very well in it
unless you cut it open. How many folks would cut their outlet open????? :shrug:

It is a good 5" up the outlet. Much less suspect that the factory seal would have slid of the diverter or even still be intact after all these years. The FSM doesn't list a procedure for this type of repair!

We do get heat on the floor now, but my 440 cars still warn up faster and are still hotter when it's 15 degrees out.
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