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Aluminum slant build
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38763
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Author:  sandy in BC [ Tue Feb 02, 2010 5:17 pm ]
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Its worth a try!

Author:  passing you [ Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:48 am ]
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Hey Doug, how much for some of those iron rings?


You outta be making some extras, good idea they are.

Author:  Doc [ Wed Feb 03, 2010 11:59 am ]
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Sorry to say that I only made 6...
I could pass along some measurements and we could quote LA Sleeve or Dayton Sleeve on the cost to make a batch... it's a simple part.
DD

Author:  passing you [ Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:09 pm ]
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Measurements would great.

Author:  adiffrentcity [ Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:56 am ]
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Quote:
TCOE is same as cast iron per hardblok website, I think that figure(cast iron TCOE) was posted a couple pages back by kevin?
*edit* Page 4. After looking at those numbers again the Hardblok would probably be a better choice for a poured-in top deck so long as it would stay in place and hold together once there was water under it and the head bolted on above.

I've seen a how-to on the epoxy/block filler top deck method for open deck honda engines. I know we aren't talking hondas here, but would you guys like for me to dig that up and post a link as "proof of concept" as far as durability given the dissimilar materials?
Ok, too many days have passed, but I did find the write-up on a couple honda sites. It seems several issues conspired to cause the failure of the engine in the write up:
1. Poor material choice. The "liquid aluminum" this goof used has a thermal coefficient of expansion even further away from aluminum and iron than the Belzona Dan suggested.
2. Turbocharging. Apparently their build was "designed" to stand up to positive pressure. The Idea behind the top deck was to keep the cylinders from distorting under the excess cylinder pressure; although given the design of honda blocks this seems a moot point.
3. Lack of coolant flow. Specifically the way the poured in liner was made allowed for a "steam pocket" to be created around the very tops of the cylinders where they need cooling the most. Steam doesn't conduct heat very well compared to coolant/water.
4. Poor tuning. Running pump gas with 20 PSI without spending a lot of time tuning and running mostly stock components is stupid. Period. Apparently most of the fast hondas out there that haven't blown to pieces aren't using the pressed-in aluminum plates OR poured in epoxy. That stuff is just a crutch that will fail eventually. What they rely on is a good tune, which won't create too much heat (go lean) in the chamber and cause them to lose their headgasket seal.

Honestly all of this has very little to do with an aluminum slant build, but I came away from my investigation seeing this in a different light. Perhaps if I had an aluminum block to play with, I would try an epoxy top deck using Hardblok, but it seems that just using it to "siamese" the cylinders together could be very effective, not to mention a good headgasket. Which is of course what Doc has been suggesting all along.... :D

Here's the link: Honda Crap

Don't go too far down the rabbit hole, the childishness and stupidity in the thread they link you to at the bottom of the first post made my head hurt... :roll:

I'm really hoping passing you comes back to give us an update on his build.

Author:  Louise76 [ Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:08 pm ]
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Info only: 1962 alum. Slant-6 on Seattle Craigslist. Is this rare?? Pat
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/1598761957.html

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Feb 13, 2010 7:14 pm ]
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Not anywhere near as rare as $1500 for a core, it isn't. :roll:

Author:  passing you [ Wed Dec 08, 2010 1:00 pm ]
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ha ha ha...

well I've been working on other crap and haven't done sht with the AL225 yet, but I did get an idea about this wasted cast crank block i have.
Finish the tops 'outter' of the bore on the AL, then bore the iron block to fit those, then hack the deck off and press it on, or in sections, all w/interference fit.

but it's just a beer fart for now. :P

Author:  Rug_Trucker [ Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:57 pm ]
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I'll jump on here too.

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