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PowerPipe-DC (True Flow Header Design)
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39043		 Page 6 of 12
Author:  Mister Twister [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 4:26 am ]
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Quote:
I'm very eager to see these hit a production run, especially for when I get the 2bbl .030" engine put in my Duster. I hope you decide to go with the ball & socket type connectors. I'm planning on having my whole exhaust use those when I have it all redone.
We don’t have a big call for that style of connection yet!! I can offer them as a special order. I was thinking about doing that for my test sets, still needed to make them with a standard collector for clearance issues. The gasketless connection for anyone would be the same price!!

We have the run started, we are not making them fast enough with 4 sets sold so far, before fitment in the early a bodys or testing. I am making 5 sets with 3" collector, 1 sold. 5 sets with the 2 1/2 connection, 2 sold. Slip on or if you need 3 bolt collector? The ring will be welded on before shipping. :D

We are also making two sets with T-3 connection one sold, 1 for stock. Talk to you soon Don. :arrow:
Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:31 am ]
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If these will fit a 170 in an early A-body I'd take a set with 2 1/2" collectors.
Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:35 am ]
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Don,

Wish I had thought of those ball type connectors before too. Those are better than std header collectors for sealing. Something to think about, but not sure of custom work needed.

Lou
Author:  emsvitil [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 1:38 pm ]
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Maybe another option on the flanges................


With my exhaust systems, I've started making my flanges so that the leading pipe will slip into the trailing pipe rather than having them flat.

You get correct alignment, it helps support the pipe, and gaskets don't blow out. (sometimes you don't even need a gasket)
Author:  Fopar [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 1:57 pm ]
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emsvitil I second that concept, I have used that concept for 6 or so years and it works well.
Author:  Mister Twister [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 4:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
If these will fit a 170 in an early A-body I'd take a set with 2 1/2" collectors.
Hello Joshua. Not being able to go to Charlies this next weekend will only put us a short time back. We have spoke to him recently, made some more plans. If they fit :? Sure hope they do. The minimum distance we have for drop clarence is 1 3/4" @ The steering box, center link and starter area. I will keep you up to speed on the build. :D
Author:  Mister Twister [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Don,

Wish I had thought of those ball type connectors before too. Those are better than std header collectors for sealing. Something to think about, but not sure of custom work needed.

Lou
Hay Lou I have the capabilitys to do that. :shock: The male end would now be the collector and the female the exhaust pipe connection. Just don't see the clamp. :?
Image

My way of attaching them would be, 2 bolts and 2 flanges slid over the set before install. Like old school cars pipe to exhaust manifold but with stainless steel hardware. JMO
Author:  Fopar [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:32 pm ]
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They use the 3 bolt flange plates, just both are loose on the pipes.
Author:  /6 Matt [ Wed Mar 31, 2010 4:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Header price
Quote:
is right $300.00 to your door, in the U.S.
Ok that's a much easier pricetag to swing. :D
Author:  Mister Twister [ Wed Mar 31, 2010 5:24 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Maybe another option on the flanges................


With my exhaust systems, I've started making my flanges so that the leading pipe will slip into the trailing pipe rather than having them flat.

You get correct alignment, it helps support the pipe, and gaskets don't blow out. (sometimes you don't even need a gasket)
Looking at the #5 cylinder pipe connection, blown up and sliding over leading head tube, :? is this what your talking about?
Image
This is how non welded exhaust systems were installed when we worked at Midas, the pipes were clamped together. :) The alignment of the pipes would have to be correct do to slide in distance. :( It don't look as pretty but should not obstruct flow like the butting of two pieces with a weld sleeve inside the pipe agreed :!:
Author:  Mister Twister [ Wed Mar 31, 2010 5:39 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
They use the 3 bolt flange plates, just both are loose on the pipes.
Thanks for the info fopar. :? I was thinking clamps that hold pipe and bolt to a catalatic converter 2 bolt. They also would be loose on the pipes. :o
Author:  Mister Twister [ Wed Mar 31, 2010 6:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Header price
Quote:
Quote:
is right $300.00 to your door, in the U.S.
Ok that's a much easier pricetag to swing. :D
Hello DartMan we will help a little more :?: If these are ordered with the slip on connection, the price would be $275.00 then. :idea: Still looking on ways to cut cost, this is one of them Don.
Author:  emsvitil [ Wed Mar 31, 2010 2:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
It don't look as pretty but should not obstruct flow like the butting of two pieces with a weld sleeve inside the pipe agreed :!:

There's no sleeve on the inside.....

Say you're working with 2" pipe and flanges.

The pipe OD is 2", the flange ID is 2".

On the leading pipe, the pipe slides into the flange. You slide the flange up about 1". Then weld the flange to the pipe.

On the trailing pipe, the first 1" of the pipe is 2 1/8" OD (2" ID) which is butt welded to the flange. Then you slide in a 2" OD pipe into the 2 1/8" pipe. (i.e. sleeve is on outside) leaving about 1" from the flange to the start of the 2" pipe.

When bolting up the system, the 1" of the leading pipe slides thru the trailing flange and into the 2 1/8" pipe of the trailing pipe. Ideally it will end up butted against the 2" pipe on the trailing pipe.
Author:  Mister Twister [ Thu Apr 01, 2010 4:53 am ]
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Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Thu Apr 01, 2010 5:14 am ]
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will shipping with usps to canada be a possibility :?:
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